W123 Ball Joint and tie rod extractor - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

tobybul · #1 09-07-2006, 12:40 PM

I know a few people have had experience working on the ball joint of a W123. I am still having trouble separating the ball joint stud from the lower control arm. A pickle fork does not really work well.

Part of the problem is that the upper part of the spindle is also stuck to the upper control arm ball joint. And a fork is NOT the tool to use as it will tear the boot.

I believe the extractors Sir Tools make will do the trick for separating the bj's but am wondering if anyone has used them (#3030 & #3029) and did they do the job.

I will also be replacing the outer tie rods and will need to use a separator tool for that also.

Any feed back would be appreciated.

brer · #2 09-07-2006, 12:51 PM

nevermind.

dannym · #3 09-07-2006, 01:00 PM

This is the tool for the upper ball joint:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y44/dannymc36/balljointlifter.jpg

The lower joint can be done with a pickle fork and a sledge hammer. Yes a sledge hammer. You really have to hit it hard and hit it a lot.
If the forks are too long it will hit the back if the steering knuckle. In which case you can hit it all day long and it won't do any good.
I had to grind down the forks some to get it to work.

Also, why are you worried about the boot? Aren't you replacing the ball joints?
if your worried that much this is the correct tool for the lower ball joint:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y44/dannymc36/balljointextractor.jpg
It costs a small fortune and good luck finding someone who has one.

And lastly, this has all been discussed before at length. Do a search for more info.

Danny

tobybul · #4 09-08-2006, 04:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dannym

This is the tool for the upper ball joint:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y44/dannymc36/balljointlifter.jpg

The lower joint can be done with a pickle fork and a sledge hammer. Yes a sledge hammer. You really have to hit it hard and hit it a lot.
If the forks are too long it will hit the back if the steering knuckle. In which case you can hit it all day long and it won't do any good.
I had to grind down the forks some to get it to work.

Also, why are you worried about the boot? Aren't you replacing the ball joints?
if your worried that much this is the correct tool for the lower ball joint:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y44/dannymc36/balljointextractor.jpg
It costs a small fortune and good luck finding someone who has one.

And lastly, this has all been discussed before at length. Do a search for more info.

Danny

Dannym, I am referring to the upper control arm boot which I am now forced to replace as I pinched and tore it using the @&# pickle fork. I just got the OTC7315A separator. I hope this will work. I am done with the fork & sledge hammer deal. If not, I may end up with the Sir Tools BMW3030 tool. its $100 from ********.com like in your 2nd pic.

I have attempted this job 2x already and aborted both times.

tobybul · #5 09-08-2006, 04:36 AM

Also, I am contemplating on whether to have the NAPA machine shop press out and press in the new TRW ball joint.... including removing/installing the in/out wheel bearing/races. I consulted with them already and they said they can do it for $15 total each side for both ball joint and and bearing job.

Sounds reasonable enough. Just gotta get the spindle off first.

I know this won't be the last time am gonna be doing this so don't mind getting some of the right tools.

(this all started when I brought the 300D in for alignment. I always like to have my car aligned after I get new tires. the shop said gotta replace the right ball joint and left outer tie rod first otherwise aligning will be useless).

BrierS · #6 09-08-2006, 05:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tobybul

Also, I am contemplating on whether to have the NAPA machine shop press out and press in the new TRW ball joint.... including removing/installing the in/out wheel bearing/races. I consulted with them already and they said they can do it for $15 total each side for both ball joint and and bearing job.

Sounds reasonable enough. Just gotta get the spindle off first.

I know this won't be the last time am gonna be doing this so don't mind getting some of the right tools.

(this all started when I brought the 300D in for alignment. I always like to have my car aligned after I get new tires. the shop said gotta replace the right ball joint and left outer tie rod first otherwise aligning will be useless).

Good price compared to what my shop is doing mine for (R&R both lower ball joints $65). I thought my price was good . . .

I did purchase the coil spring tool so I guess my overall investment is higher yet the tool set can be used by other forum members later (if the existing ones on the tool rental program are in use).
Steve

tobybul · #7 09-11-2006, 06:52 PM

Ok, I finally got the ball joint replaced. And I must say as one of the members said, its a matter of having the right tools. The job went a lot easier with these tools. I used the OTC7315A for separating the upper ball joint from the spindle (mine was stuck to it pretty good). Although I tore the boot the other day when I used a pickle fork with this upper bj, I know that the otc will not tear the boot when used correctly.

The NAPA 7759096 separator did the trick with separating the lower ball joint from the lower control arm. After that, I used a hammer and a short piece of 1" dia steel pipe coupling to hammer out the old bj. To install the new bj, I used the AZ bj press tool. I first removed the boot of the new bj b4 putting on the AZ tool. However, this whole process was not as smooth. I did not have a good vise to hold the spindle with so everything was by hand. My son and I held the spindle down to the floor as we turned the tool. In between, we would raise the spindle up and tap on the AZ tool really hard to help further push the bj down into the spindle. It took a bit of doing but got it fully seated eventually.

The tool to the left is the OTC. I got from Dodgetopia.com for $37+shpg. The Napa tool is $17 with 20% off card.

Whiskeydan · #8 09-11-2006, 08:23 PM

I found pursuasive gentle taps helpful when pressing the ball joint in the spindle.
Make a couple of turns, tap, repeat.

BobK · #9 09-11-2006, 08:39 PM

As to your question about a tool to remove the tie-rod ends: I went ahead and bought the $50 SirTools tie-rod tool for MB (against my tight German nature). What a wonderful tool. I had to replace the center link on my 126 and I was so pleased at how easily it popped out the rod ends. In the past I had spent way too much time with my pickle fork and assorted ever larger hammers.

tobybul · #10 09-11-2006, 09:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Whiskeydan

I found pursuasive gentle taps helpful when pressing the ball joint in the spindle.
Make a couple of turns, tap, repeat.

Thats exactly what we did... although I can't say that the taps were that gentle.... but, yes, tap,tap,tap on the AZ tool and turn and .....

tobybul · #11 09-11-2006, 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BobK

As to your question about a tool to remove the tie-rod ends: I went ahead and bought the $50 SirTools tie-rod tool for MB (against my tight German nature). What a wonderful tool. I had to replace the center link on my 126 and I was so pleased at how easily it popped out the rod ends. In the past I had spent way too much time with my pickle fork and assorted ever larger hammers.

The OTC tool will do the same thing with a tie rod. And will or should do the same for a ball joint. Both tools I showed above felt very well made and heavy duty. I thought the Napa tool was slick! It actually acted like a fork as you have to tap or hammer it in from the side which works well with the W123 as the spindle somewhat gets in the way when trying to work from the topside... and once its there tight you turn the bolt of the tool and.....pop!! Hallelujah!!!

NDP 2.6 190E · #12 01-07-2008, 08:01 PM

Am in the middle of replacing both front calipers and rotors. I already knew that front end work was due, and a close inspection of UCA’s and LCA’s reveals split ball joint gators and worn bushings - especially the UCA inner bushings.

Tie, drag and guide rods appear to be OK – no split gators or cracking, and the steering damper was recently replaced by the PO.

So, having reviewed several excellent write-ups from various board members, I am planning to R&R my front end while the rotors and calipers are off.

Now I realize this topic has been done to death, but I have a couple of questions…..

1. Other than the convenience of having the lower/inner bushing already installed, is there any way I can justify the price of new LCA’s ($175 each side) instead of just replacing the lower inner bushings ($24 each side)?

2. Any recommendations on where to rent the correct spring compressor?

I also plan on replacing the UCA’s complete with ball joints and guide rod bushings, and will also check the guide rod mounts while I’m in there.

I plan on purchasing these tools:
• OTC 7315A Universal Tie Rod End Remover
• NAPA 7759096 separator
• Habor Freight 3-IN-1 BALL JOINT/U-JOINT/C-FRAME PRESS SERVICE KIT, or I may just rent the equivalent Autozone ball joint press.

All advice welcome.

Cheers,

tobybul · #13 01-07-2008, 08:19 PM

Wow, ya sure revived an old post..

Quote:

Originally Posted by NDP 2.6 190E

...

1. Other than the convenience of having the lower/inner bushing already installed, is there any way I can justify the price of new LCA’s ($175 each side) instead of just replacing the lower inner bushings ($24 each side)?

Not much help on this one... but it seems to me that it would be cheaper to replace bushings....

Quote:

Originally Posted by NDP 2.6 190E

...2. Any recommendations on where to rent the correct spring compressor?

Befriend the head mechanic at the dealership and see if he'll let you borrow some tools...

Quote:

Originally Posted by NDP 2.6 190E

...I plan on purchasing these tools:
• OTC 7315A Universal Tie Rod End Remover
• NAPA 7759096 separator
• Habor Freight 3-IN-1 BALL JOINT/U-JOINT/C-FRAME PRESS SERVICE KIT, or I may just rent the equivalent Autozone ball joint press.

Just bring the new ball joint and spindle with the old ball joint to a NAPA machine shop and have them press it out and press in the new one. Its a PITA to mess with yourself. They'll usually do both spindles for around $20. I would not bother with buying/renting a press.

patbob · #14 01-07-2008, 08:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NDP 2.6 190E

1. Other than the convenience of having the lower/inner bushing already installed, is there any way I can justify the price of new LCA’s ($175 each side) instead of just replacing the lower inner bushings ($24 each side)?

2. Any recommendations on where to rent the correct spring compressor?

1: Once you have the LCAs off, the bushing is easy to R&R. The hardest part for me was getting the rubber bushings into the LCA and bottomed out (I used a vise). Flaring the retaining tube was simplicity itself, although I did have to sacrifice a $6 tubing flare tool for the conical mandrel (but I could have probably popped it back on and saved the tool too since it's held on with a circular spring). Use a socket extension or some such on the pre-flared end to keep it pressed tightly against the bushing, and the mandrel on the other end to flare it, squeeze both ends together gently in a vise to seat the flared end of the tube firml against the bushing and then flare the other end. Easy, peasy.

2: There's some floating around the tools rental forum..