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  #1  
Old 09-07-2006, 12:40 PM
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W123 Ball Joint and tie rod extractor

I know a few people have had experience working on the ball joint of a W123. I am still having trouble separating the ball joint stud from the lower control arm. A pickle fork does not really work well.

Part of the problem is that the upper part of the spindle is also stuck to the upper control arm ball joint. And a fork is NOT the tool to use as it will tear the boot.

I believe the extractors Sir Tools make will do the trick for separating the bj's but am wondering if anyone has used them (#3030 & #3029) and did they do the job.

I will also be replacing the outer tie rods and will need to use a separator tool for that also.

Any feed back would be appreciated.
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  #2  
Old 09-07-2006, 12:51 PM
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nevermind.
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Last edited by brer; 09-07-2006 at 01:28 PM.
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  #3  
Old 09-07-2006, 01:00 PM
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This is the tool for the upper ball joint:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y44/dannymc36/balljointlifter.jpg

The lower joint can be done with a pickle fork and a sledge hammer. Yes a sledge hammer. You really have to hit it hard and hit it a lot.
If the forks are too long it will hit the back if the steering knuckle. In which case you can hit it all day long and it won't do any good.
I had to grind down the forks some to get it to work.

Also, why are you worried about the boot? Aren't you replacing the ball joints?
if your worried that much this is the correct tool for the lower ball joint:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y44/dannymc36/balljointextractor.jpg
It costs a small fortune and good luck finding someone who has one.

And lastly, this has all been discussed before at length. Do a search for more info.

Danny
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  #4  
Old 09-08-2006, 04:28 AM
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Otc7315a

Quote:
Originally Posted by dannym View Post
This is the tool for the upper ball joint:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y44/dannymc36/balljointlifter.jpg

The lower joint can be done with a pickle fork and a sledge hammer. Yes a sledge hammer. You really have to hit it hard and hit it a lot.
If the forks are too long it will hit the back if the steering knuckle. In which case you can hit it all day long and it won't do any good.
I had to grind down the forks some to get it to work.

Also, why are you worried about the boot? Aren't you replacing the ball joints?
if your worried that much this is the correct tool for the lower ball joint:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y44/dannymc36/balljointextractor.jpg
It costs a small fortune and good luck finding someone who has one.

And lastly, this has all been discussed before at length. Do a search for more info.

Danny
Dannym, I am referring to the upper control arm boot which I am now forced to replace as I pinched and tore it using the @&# pickle fork. I just got the OTC7315A separator. I hope this will work. I am done with the fork & sledge hammer deal. If not, I may end up with the Sir Tools BMW3030 tool. its $100 from ********.com like in your 2nd pic.

I have attempted this job 2x already and aborted both times.
Attached Thumbnails
W123 Ball Joint and tie rod extractor-otc7315a.jpg  
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  #5  
Old 09-08-2006, 04:36 AM
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Machine Shop vs DIY

Also, I am contemplating on whether to have the NAPA machine shop press out and press in the new TRW ball joint.... including removing/installing the in/out wheel bearing/races. I consulted with them already and they said they can do it for $15 total each side for both ball joint and and bearing job.

Sounds reasonable enough. Just gotta get the spindle off first.

I know this won't be the last time am gonna be doing this so don't mind getting some of the right tools.

(this all started when I brought the 300D in for alignment. I always like to have my car aligned after I get new tires. the shop said gotta replace the right ball joint and left outer tie rod first otherwise aligning will be useless).
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the sooner you start... the sooner you'll get done If it ain't broke, don't fix it.. Its always simpler to tell the truth...
2007 Honda Accord EX
2007 Honda Accord SE V6
96 C220
97 Explorer - Found Another Home
2000 Honda Accord V6 - Found Another Home
85 300D - Found Another Home
84 300D - Found Another Home
80 300TD - Found Another Home
Previous cars:
96 Caravan
87 Camry
84 Cressida
82 Vanagon
80 Fiesta
78 Nova
Ford Cortina
Opel Kadet
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Contessa
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  #6  
Old 09-08-2006, 05:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tobybul View Post
Also, I am contemplating on whether to have the NAPA machine shop press out and press in the new TRW ball joint.... including removing/installing the in/out wheel bearing/races. I consulted with them already and they said they can do it for $15 total each side for both ball joint and and bearing job.

Sounds reasonable enough. Just gotta get the spindle off first.

I know this won't be the last time am gonna be doing this so don't mind getting some of the right tools.

(this all started when I brought the 300D in for alignment. I always like to have my car aligned after I get new tires. the shop said gotta replace the right ball joint and left outer tie rod first otherwise aligning will be useless).
Good price compared to what my shop is doing mine for (R&R both lower ball joints $65). I thought my price was good . . .

I did purchase the coil spring tool so I guess my overall investment is higher yet the tool set can be used by other forum members later (if the existing ones on the tool rental program are in use).
Steve
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