check this out, might help. Found under DIY links at top of home page here.

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W126GuideRod

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1982 MBZ 300SD Turbo Diesel- just turned 200,000- just breaking her in

After reading threads on subject the car should be jacked up(safely) use jack stands, remove wheel, then jack up lower control arm thus taking spring load off of lower control arm, then proceed unbolting frame mount bearing bolts(2). Then continue with outlined repair as previously mentioned in links and info posted.

Found MBZ svc manual procedure to repair/replace.

http://mb.braingears.com/126_DISC1/program/Chassis/33-600.pdf

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1982 MBZ 300SD Turbo Diesel- just turned 200,000- just breaking her in

Come on yall. Now you need to go over there and fix it for him.......

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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

Sure, I could really use a break from this project of mine. Never knew a car could be so much work.

-Replaced injectors and plugs.
-Did timing and replaced cover seal.
-Replaced head light assembly on both sides.
-Jimmy rigged idle after adjustment screw decided to snap while adjusting, some dick thought it would be smart to thread lock it on in the past.
-Repaired almost every wire on harness between firewall.
-Hand sanded entire car and filled where needed for paint.
-RR bowden cable after small fire melted it.
-Pulled rims and sand blasted to prepare powder coat.
Hmmm let me see.
-RR a few ball joints.
-Pulled and saudered climate contol to get it working again.
-Removed rear piece of head liner glued clips and reinstalled because it was sagging.
-Removed pillar type pieces from between rear and front doors and recoved with new vynal.
-RR door lock actuators on trunk and two side left side boors.
-Replaced clip on bottom of rear window .
-Replaced some of the wood on interior while fixing glove box door that kept -popping open while going over bumps.
-Hard wired climate control to rear light control while trying to figure out said problem with climate control.
-Removed both front seats to replace those wire things that spin to move seat back and fort and related movements of seats.
Removed Alda and replaced as a dust cover because it was busted.Dam screw snapped.
I could go on...and yes I do want a hero bicky as the saying goes.

So if anyone has any free time i'd be glad to have a helping hand.On the bright side I discovered I love messing with cars because before this I never did so much as an oil change.In addition my car get's stares when driving down the road and who dosen't like that.

BTW thanks rocketman the link you provided was excellent and should make this job quite manageable. And of course thaks everone it was all helpful info.

INFO:

The prime purpose of this joint is to take the longitudinal loading of the front suspension. They can get so bad that the front wheels can be felt moving forward and backward during braking. It’s rather unusual to get that bad because, before that, a clunking sound is usually the complaint with actual diagnosis often quite difficult. Once familiar with the symptom, one can condemn the joint when the boot is broken and the clunk is evident.

Another common complaint due to this mount/ball joint is brake pulsations and/or shimmy at a resonant speed around 60 mph.


Found this here
http://web.archive.org/web/20050307000824/www.continentalimports.com/ser_ic4232.html

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1982 MBZ 300SD Turbo Diesel- just turned 200,000- just breaking her in

This is sounding very familiar, for the last 3 months or so my car has been clunking during braking and around corners as well, nice to know i'm on the right track.And as for the article in the link you posted the writer talks of the tech chasing the caster and camber numbers around to get the right alignment, well that very thing did happen about 8 months ago while traveling across Canada.By the end there were two guys tackleing the job with the claim that the adjustments were just impossible and that i would have to modify my suspension somehow to have it done properly.I guess next time i'll have to make sure the next place i take it to knows as much as they claim to know.
Thanks for the info.

... I use this Parts WebSite as a reference: http://www.performanceproducts4benz.com/ .

They have a parts blowup feature [ "Schematics" ] that makes it very easy to come up with names for the various parts. And the site hase an extensive range of parts in stock with after-market parts being quite price competitive.

Sam

Use a large hose clamp to slightly compress the new part to aid installation.
And, be sure to line up the drain grooves.

Look here: W126 Guide rod bushing replacement

Sorry about that, I meant my referenece to :
http://www.performanceproducts4benz.com/Drawings.aspx?bmid=136
Sam

Wow, I'm glad that I get bored and read the seemingly unrelated threads!

I've been trying to figure out what is making the strange shimmy feeling in my front end, which also wobbles and clunks when applying the brakes.. Wandering through the threads, I come across discussion of just the fault that I've been scratching my head over, described, explained reasons, and fixed!

Thank you all, for all the shared information!

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-Josh
Testing the cheap Mercedes axiom, one bolt at a time...