New Euro 300d -IP timing question - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

PatricdeBoer · #1 09-27-2006, 02:12 PM

I just picked up a euro 300d for $200 bucks. I bought it from a friend who was so frustrated with it that he wanted it gone. He put a home built 2 tank WVO kit on it and since then has had fuel delivery problems. He went searching in all the wrong places and ended up taking the injection pump off, and putting it back on. He got it a few gear teeth off, because now the car barely runs and smokes really bad. Does anyone have any directions or links to pulling the pump off and putting it on right?

Here it is

barry123400 · #2 09-27-2006, 02:30 PM

Typical californian 200.00 rust bucket? You probably have to pay a little tax as well? A fellow citizen of yours W.C.fields said something about one born every day. Anyways the information you seek is well covered in the archives. Try drip timing method. Or perhaps pump installation or changing. The description of tackling this is quite long winded like myself.

Could you not beat him down a little?:: For that price the fuel tank was full and oil service done I hope? Car had set of shop manuals? Others to support their members may even offer twice what you paid for it. They want to help as well.

This far north it looks like a find most of us can only barely imagine in our dreams. Hope the car serves you well. There might be a quick and dirty method to do this. Brian who is quite knowledgeable has mentioned that some pumps have a slot that can be engaged with a tool. This tool is not expensive if available. This sets the pump at tdc. My feeling is your pump does not have it but if it does you are home free. Just turn the engine until the slot is engaged. Remove injection pump. Set cam timing marker as dead on as you can. Slide pump back in. With a little luck you will be right on. Again this depends if your pump has the tdc engagement slot. I really do not suspect it does but I may be wrong. Also I think the euro pump is a little different and that might increase your chances it has it.

riethoven · #3 09-27-2006, 02:36 PM

Oh man, I am jealous of you! $200 for a Euro W123! You could sell the bumpers for more than you paid for the car. That is a great color too.

Regarding the injection pump, I would think that the timing procedure would be the same on Euro and North American versions. The drip tube is good but time consuming, and the electronic sensor is fast but it is a matter of getting your hands on one. Brian Carlton has one and timed 4 or 5 IPs in a couple of hours. Look at the FSM, I am sure it details everything you need to know.

winmutt · #4 09-27-2006, 03:21 PM

There is no fix, I'll reimburse you the $200 and you can ship it to me.

riethoven · #5 09-27-2006, 03:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by winmutt

There is no fix, I'll reimburse you the $200 and you can ship it to me.

Dreamer

PatricdeBoer · #6 09-27-2006, 03:54 PM

It wasn't much of a looker when I got it. I buffed out the paint and threw some rims that I had in the garage, It came with red rims

. it doesn't look too bad now. The car spent the first bit of its life in Utah, so It's got a little bit of body rust here and there, but nothing too bad. The only thing is, its been jimmy rigged under the hood a bit. I've been removing a lot of idiotic fixes and puting on the right parts from my parts cars, like zip ties holding together the throttle linkage and massive amounts of silicone, where rubber bushings should be. Does anyone know much one of these in a fair condition is worth? I've never really dealt with Euros.

riethoven · #7 09-27-2006, 04:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PatricdeBoer

It wasn't much of a looker when I got it. I buffed out the paint and threw some rims that I had in the garage, It came with red rims

. it doesn't look too bad now. The car spent the first bit of its life in Utah, so It's got a little bit of body rust here and there, but nothing too bad. The only thing is, its been jimmy rigged under the hood a bit. I've been removing a lot of idiotic fixes and puting on the right parts from my parts cars, like zip ties holding together the throttle linkage and massive amounts of silicone, where rubber bushings should be. Does anyone know much one of these in a fair condition is worth? I've never really dealt with Euros.

As I am sure you know, condition and verifiable records are everything on these cars. Since it is a Euro it also depends on the options. Obviously it is not turbo because the turbo was only offered on the wagons in Europe. Is it a four or the rare five speed? Does it have power windows? What is the interior material. If it is cloth, I would think that is worth less than Benz Tex, but leather or velour in good condition might be worth more. Does it have heated seats? Does it have AC? No AC would be a big deduction IMHO.

Can you post more pictures and list options? They are on the factory plate under the hood by the hood latch. You can look them up and see what factory options it had. Somewhere in the forum there is a link to a Russian site where you can input your VIN and it will tell you all about your car. I did it for my W124 wagon and it spit out everything regarding the car.

By the way, I notice you use lower case for the "de" part of your name. Most US citizens of Dutch origin do not do that. Are you a native of the Netherlands?

Tot ziens,

winmutt · #8 09-27-2006, 04:31 PM

I wonder what the "no rear seatbelt" option that my taxi has is worth.

PatricdeBoer · #9 09-27-2006, 04:41 PM

The car does has a manual sunroof manual windows and a non op A/C. The seats are MB tex and the interior is in decent shape except for some jimmy rigged dash switches for the fuel solinoids, (I'm gonna replace them with actual mercedes switches that fit the hole.) The dash is starting to crack around the speakers.

I haven't seen de Boer spelled that way either, most of the time there is no space and the D is capitalized, my great grandfather was dutch.