Yesterday I posted about the kickdown switch not being contacted by the accelerator. Well, last night I was poking around to see where to adjust the linkage. While doing so, I noticed that the linkage does not even contact the stop bolt. The metal plate that holds the black cam type thing on top of the valve cover hits it's stop before anything else does.

What do I adjust to make the throttle stop bolt be the point of contact?

I did replace the "fingers" as instructed by Diesel Giant, and mine were broken. No telling how long ago they broke, as the black "cam" is deeply scored from the metal plungers rubbing on it. Is there a repair for that, or do I get to try and find a new "cam"?

Thanks!

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D

Bump...anyone?

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D

Kinda tricky, but there's a bolt under the bowden cable that's an 8 or 9mm you have to adjust in order for you to be able to hit the throttle stop. When I did this modification on mine and timed myself, the fastest to 60mph I could go was 11.1 seconds. When I reverted back to its original state, I was back to 13-14.

Check your PM

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