When people say diesel purge, they should differentiate between the brand name and the generic nomenclature to avoid confusing the noobs.

Diesel Purge is a product made by a German company sold under the name Lubro-Moly(Liqui-Moly in Europe). This isn't a product that you pour into the fuel tank. It is looped continuously through the IP and injectors by rigging a bottle full of it up to the lift pump and return circuit. It achieves almost instantaneous results, no waiting till you burn a couple tanks of fuel to witness a quantifiable benefit. Sea Foam is not Diesel Purge. Power Service is not Diesel Purge. Only Lubro-Moly Diesel Purge is. Don't confuse the products because they are not the same and don't behave and are not used in the same way. If you have a nailing or smoking problem, or you just want to make real sure you have a clean injection system, use the Lubro-Moly before you change out the fuel filters. Then, use a bit of Power Service each tankfull as I do to maintain a clean system and lube the IP thereafter.

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'02 BMW 325i
'85 300D 450k
'93 190E 2.6 170k(killed by tree)
'08 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S 6k
'06 Ducati S2R800 14k(sold)

Ditto your comment's above "d.delano" and yes I was referring to the "Lubro-Moly" "Diesel Purge" product. I plan to follow their recommended recirculating procedure and run 500ml through the diesel MBZs under my care about every other oil/filter change or once a year... which means the spin-on filter also gets changed along with a clean prefilter.

first of all, i didn't mean to offend you or anybody but i agree, it's too early. a noob shouldn't mess with the ALDA adjustment unless you really know what you're doing and you really understand how it works.

small obvious things first before the more in depth doo-hickies. like both fuel filters, air filter and the banjo bolt line. i myself is not an expert either but eventually, you'll get there, you'll learn it yourself with the help and guidance of the other guru forum members.

anyway, sounds like the throttle linkages are out of adjustment to me. does it hit the stop when you floor the pedal? there might be some slack on it.

with the engine not running, have someone to push the pedal to the floor and take a look under the hood if the link in the IP rack is hitting the stop bolt. (you'll know what i mean when you see it) if it's not hitting the stop, make some adjustments, just figure out how to adjust those rod-ends of the linkages so it will hit the stop when fully throttled. it should hit the stop to have the proper response of the pedal in accelaration from full stop.

good luck and best regards.

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'85 300D Turbo - CA Version

The FIRST thing I did when I got mu 300d, was clean the lines to the alda. More power, smother shifting.


and now it a battle against algae, if you look at you primary filter (plastic, clear one) what color is it? can you see the screen? Mine was dark green, and the screen was completely black. Replaced both filters, and I'm about to start running an algiecide in the tank.


You really have a good car there, take good care of her and she'll last more than a lifetime.

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-1983 VW Rabbit LS Diesel (5speed, VNT/Giles build)