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  #1  
Old 10-15-2006, 07:32 PM
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'74 240D IP timing

Once again, is there anybody there who knows the procedure of how to properly time the IP on a '74 240D with 616.916 engine and 115.117 chassis? A good friend of mine replaced a bad/failed IP with a new one and coudn't start the engine anymore. From my research on this Diesel Forum, there is a "locking nut/tool" required to accomplish this job, and obviously, my friend didn't used one. Are there any alternatives for this step? Any source for this special tool? Any part #? How does this tool works? Our local MB dealership is not generous enough, or I would say not cooperative at all to share some knowledge on this procedure. All they want and care is to milk our pockets. Any help and input will be greatly appreciated.
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Old 10-15-2006, 08:28 PM
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Sorry

Sorry My internet connection is not working with me and taking to long to get to the exact page. Navigate through the pages and it is listed there under fuel injection or something like that.

I did it about 6 months ago but I forget all of the exact numbers between the early 616 and other models.

Basically get all 3 nuts off (That bottom one is major major major...Ohh did I say major pain on the 115)

Make sure the pump is lined up (there are marks on the and a spline if I remember correctly) and slip it in with the #1 cyclinder TDC

Tighten everything down and and put on all injector lines and prim the system and trun the crank around a few times with your socket.

Take off the number one and make sure it wells (or if you have the drip tool) at the degree mark on the balancer as noted in the manual.

To get it perfect it is a real pain in the butt on the 115 becuase there is no room in there but to get it close enough to start will be easy.

Easier job with two people. 1 to crank 1 to look at the fuel in the IP fuel port on top.

Sorry if this is confusing but it is all explained on the manual that is below. Is all PDF format. The first one is just in case you have other cars for the future and the second is for the installation of the IP.

http://mb.braingears.com/114_115_Disk1/program/matrix6.htm

http://mb.braingears.com/114_115_Disk1/program/Engine/615/07-200.pdf
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Old 10-15-2006, 09:53 PM
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Thanks Addicted!

Thanks you so much Addicted! You're post and the URL you sent will really help me and my friend a lot. I appreciate your time and effort replying back.
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Old 10-16-2006, 03:28 AM
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i have a 76 240d (basically the same pump) i did as the manual said but the car runs very rough. will moving the injection pump towards or away from the engine corect this?
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Old 10-16-2006, 05:52 AM
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If you make refference marks on the pump and flange before you move the pump it will do no harm to move the pump. You will always be able to find the original timed position again if you have to. But if you did not install the pump correctly you will not have enough range on the adjustment to get all the way to where you need to go. The variables are being the pump timing is faulty or even perhaps a bad replacement pump I imagine. Also could be something else. Much will depend on how the engine ran on the old pump and why it was changed out to start with. I would post a little more information.
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Old 10-16-2006, 06:49 AM
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Exactly,

Another way to tell if your timing is off (besides feeling the power: quicker on take off advanced visa-versa) is to take a end wrench and put it on the injectors then place the wrench to your ear. If you hear that PING that doesnt sound like the rest of the injectors your timing is off, but you have to figure out which way yourself.

Putting the mark on the IP and block is a good method of telling how far you have gone. I can't remember how much you can adjust the timing by moving the pump but I think it is no more than 6 degrees or so in either direction. If you do need to adjust take all injector lines off the pump and bend the Injector lines one at a time and place back on the pump. I'm not fond of the prybar method and it doesn't work as well.
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Old 10-16-2006, 07:13 AM
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I too agree with the above. Thoise injector lines are very stiff. They have to be very strong and thick walled so they do not expand noticably with the pressure pulse. If it were otherwise the incremental adjustment of the pump would be much easier.
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Old 10-16-2006, 11:34 AM
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Doesn't that pump have a plug in the side for the "tool". I helped a friend with a MB van that had the earlier 616 (W115) and It had the timing tool plug in the side.
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