Success!
 

Codes cleared automatically on the drive home. Alpha testing is complete! I'll re-wire and tidy up the installation this weekend and begin beta testing.

Stay tuned... :)

That's awesome KarTech. I'm anxious to read the results.

Bump!

Success and the thread goes dead!

-Jim

Beta testing, still working a couple thousand miles later... Car's been off the road for a month now while I'm fixing various things related to age, mounts, brakes, etc...

I took a big leap of faith and totally removed the EGR tube and I'll be plugging the open ends with metal disks. I'll probably eventually open up the EGR valve and remove the restriction. I've gotten good at removing the intake manifold now - only like 5 min. especially with an air ratchet... :)

Here's a shot of the relay ready for installation:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71...s/IMG_3120.jpg

And one of the relay nestled in the box:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71...s/IMG_3124.jpg

Nice! Will any relay just work with if it has the schematic you posted? What diode did you use? I am looking forward to doing this myself and making it a cleaner installation.

I have removed the tubes and gutted the egr and plugged the ends already. It definately increases the airflow.

This is the radio shack relay I used: 12VDC/1A SPDT Micro Relay Model: 275-241 | Catalog #: 275-241

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062481&cp=&sr=1

And the radio shack diode is the one you specified earlier in the thread: 1N4004 Micro 1-Amp Rectifier Diode Model: 1N4004 | Catalog #: 276-1103

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2036270&cp=&sr=1

I bought the skinniest automotive cable I could find at Advance Auto. A little heat shrink and some solder and it's good to go. I also snipped off one of the relay terminals that was not needed.

How often does the relay cycle? Is it a mechanical relay? The $5 price suggests that it is mechanical. You might want to solder in a relay base and make it an annual PM to replace the relay.

It also says 55F for the max environmental temperature. That seems unrealistic. maybe they meant 55C.

After Beta testing you might want to consider a solid state relay with a healthy heat sink on it. I have a box of old 486/pentium processor heat sinks that would work very well as solid state relay heat sinks.

Any chance this will work on my 1995 S350... Man, I am lazy!

-Jim

I wish I had a "sillyscope" and I'd hook it up to observe the signal voltage. I know the ECU uses PCM to work the throttle but I'm not sure if the EGR vacuum switch is modulated or simply open or shut. The relay is good for something like a million cycles so it should be good for a while. Even if it fails, it'll probably just set a code.

Ideally, one would just use a switching transistor I guess but I'm not swift enough to rig a circuit using one, nor would I know which one to use.

Your S350 probably just uses an EGR valve lift switch to signal the ECU that it's done it's thing. This would be just as easy to rig as these MAF foolers.

Nice that it tells you when it goes bad (throws a code). When it does finally fail, install the the relay socket (base) to make it easy to replace the next time. Of course, if it lasts 10 years why bother!

What is an EGR lift switch? There is only the vacuum line going to the EGR. There does not appear to be any sort of feedback coming from the EGR. I suspect that it is set up nearly identical to the 606.

-Jim

The lift switch is on the NA 606's and I figured you 'd have the same but you have the 603 right? Maybe you can simply plug the vacuum line...? Have you had a situation where it sets trouble codes? Do you have a MAF sensor?

The switch sits on the top of the EGR diaphram.

I got onto this thread from another thread about replacing the waste gate actuator.

I did the EGR delete kit and posted about it. gsrx warned that it might cause a loss of boost if the computer sensed it not functioning. Sure enough I had a loss of boost the next time I drove it. I immediately jumped on it being a computer problem. Of course, I also had a repeated failure of an injector return line (3 times on a 100 mile drive). Now that the line has been permenantly repaired the car seems to be running fine. I think I am going to leave it as is and see how it does on a 250 mile trip I have coming up on Sunday. By the end of that I should know if I have lost boost. I also need to look at the manual for the engine (OM603.971) and see if it has a vacuum or pressure accuated waste gate for the turbo.

-Jim

OK, the drive was not that bad. It is a slug when the RPMs are less than 2500 to 2700. My engine red lines at 4300 RPM.

The 606s must red line higher than mine.

The logic for the EGR signal in the 606s includes that RPM must be less than 3000. I bet on my 603 it is 2500 RPM or so.

The RPM part is probably what was confusing me.

-Jim

Maybe you can hook up a vacuum gauge and determine if the EGR is working at the specified times. Temp/RPM/Rack travel. Did you determine whether the waste gate is vacuum or pressure controlled?

Another option is a pressure wastegate instead of the vacuum actuated one. That will definately get rid of your boost problems.

Which wires in the box do I use other than the maf wires?

Thanks!