Test Drive 98 E300TD - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

JasonC · #1 10-23-2006, 10:52 AM

Hello,

I'm test driving a 98 E300TD today and wanted to know what I should look for when I look it over. I did test drove it once already and it seemed slugish until the turbo kicked in as compared to my 1992 300D 2.5 turbo.

How do you know if you need new glow plugs? Could that make it sluggish?

Please let me know your thoughts.

Thanks,
Jay

scott19_68 · #2 10-23-2006, 11:15 AM

Look for fuel leaks near the delivery valves and on the shut-off valve. The new ULSD has triggered older seals to show their age.

If it has ASR, look in the drivers-side door jam for a build date of 7/97 or make sure the transmission service records are up to date. The engine in these vehicles are very strong except the glow plugs tend to break on removal due to carbon build up. Be sure the put the A/C to max. and listen for any hissing sounds (possible leak in the evaporator -> $$$).

Biggest item is rust. Pull back the door seals above the windows and look for any sign of rust (mine had all the doors replaced before I bought it!) and on the trunk lid near the license plate. Check that the sunroof slides all the way back and forward without stopping.

F18 · #3 10-23-2006, 12:06 PM

Jason,
If it starts and runs OK....and there is no eratic idle then it probably just needs new primary and secondary fuel filters and a good purge.
Fuel leaks would be noticable...you can smell them, see them and large air bubbles would be in the clear fuel lines....it would cause eratic engine operation which does not seem to be the problem with the car.

If its a snow belt car check for deteriorating spring perch welds. ..they have a tendancy to rust and weeken with snow and salt.

Check the fan control and make sure it functions on all speed settings. The fan regulator on this model did have a tendancy to die prematurely and they are very expensive to replace.

Lower control arm bushes wear out quickly on this model. The symptom is a tell tale front end shimmy at speeds between 50 to 60mph. They all do it after a while and you just learn to live with it.
Good luck.....its a great diesel vehicle from my perspective....just be prepared to get some grease under your nails on occasion.

raMBow · #4 10-23-2006, 12:47 PM

When I test drove mine, I had the same thought about it being sluggish, it should not be and is not.

Hmmmm.... someone had the transmission in W mode for winter which takes out first, make certain it is in the S or Summer mode. Do searches here, but the big ticket items seem to be mentioned, check the rust at top of doors, pull the seal all the way back on the doors, if possible check the spring perches.

NoSpark · #5 10-23-2006, 01:13 PM

Sluggish? That shouldn't be. Turbo lag is very minimal, and I only notice it from a standing start. Even then it's probably less than a second before you get a big wallop of torque and the traction control kicking on even in the dry. That's half-throttle, I honestly don't think I've ever floored mine.

aklim · #6 10-23-2006, 06:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JasonC

I'm test driving a 98 E300TD today and wanted to know what I should look for when I look it over. I did test drove it once already and it seemed slugish until the turbo kicked in as compared to my 1992 300D 2.5 turbo.

How do you know if you need new glow plugs? Could that make it sluggish?

That is about how it is especially compared to the gas models out there. Live with the sluggishness or chip it.

The thing will glow and the plug light will go out. If you need new plugs, it will stay on. That has absolutely no effect on the sluggishness unless you are starting it up in freezing weather and romping the accelerator. It is what it is.

92497pmu · #7 10-23-2006, 11:20 PM

Echo the test for fuel leaks. Also, check the spring perch- SAFETY!!

I have had several recent issues with this. Check the 6 clear plastic fuel lines, they should still be clear and pliable NOT yellowed and brittle.
Leaks would be visible and you could smell these.

Check service history if available.
I bought mine in sept 2004 @ 74k
Overall car has been pretty good. Very nice image, prestige. NOT built like a Toyota or even like the older MB cars in my opinion.

my (partial) service log and preventative maintenance since purchase:
*MAF
*thermostat regulator
*fuel lines
*fuel temperature sensor
*right rear window regulator
*LH drivers seat switch
*glow plugs
*fan belt
*lots of light bulbs (i think i've replaced nearly every bulb on this car- only once thankfully)
*regular oil change, fuel filters, air filters, tires, etc...

Work in progress...
*rear sun shade, sun screen (still working on this)
*some other fuel leak
*rough idle (fuel leak possibly? Several other members have this problem and we are all so-far unsuccessful to the best of my knowledge)
e300 rough idle? air leak? help?

good luck with your search.
Keep reading or searching here for more info or search posts by the e300 guys that have replied to you.

nhdoc · #8 10-24-2006, 07:44 AM

Yes, as raMBow mentioned the transmission mode, if it is in "W" will start out in 2nd gear and seem quite slow.

In fact, when I bought mine it was in "W" and I was quite pleasantly surprised to find out that putting it in "S" improved its performance dramatically!

Check that switch, I'd bet a nickel it is in W.

JasonC · #9 10-24-2006, 11:18 AM

I took it for a good ride this time and checked out some of the stuff you guys talked about. It seemed to have a noisy idle. By this I mean it sounded really clunky like a big diesel truck under 1500 rpm then it sounded smooth. It wasn't eratic and it didn't stall it just sounded bad even when it was warmed up as soon as it got below 1500 rpm even while moving. Is that what you mean? I have a 1992 300d and it doesn't sound like that. Could it cause more problems down the road?

The transmission was smooth. it was made 7/97 so I think that means it's okay

I didn't see or smell any fuel leak.

I did see one spot of rust forming behind the seal in the driver door. Is that easy to stop with a little work?

Spring pearchs were hard to see because it was at night.

On the way back to the dealer I was going up a hill and the check engine light came on. Turning the car off didn't help. It still ran fine but I'm not so excited about the car now. The dealer said he would have the mechanics reset it but I'm hoping they do more that reset it.

Any thoughts on the check engine light? I'll try to see if they can tell me what the code is.

TMAllison · #10 10-24-2006, 12:08 PM

You claim it is sluggish. Does it rev up over 3k and have a strong turbo surge from 1500 rpm on at WOT?

If not my guess is your code will be PO100. Bad MAF.

Hatterasguy · #11 10-24-2006, 12:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TMAllison

You claim it is sluggish. Does it rev up over 3k and have a strong turbo surge from 1500 rpm on at WOT?

If not my guess is your code will be PO100. Bad MAF.

Yep, bet you a six pack that she needs a MAF. $200. If you want it tell him no deal unless he fixes it.

jnc19610 · #12 10-24-2006, 01:25 PM

I've only had my E300 a short while (6 months, 15K miles)

When I took my car home for a test drive (6 months ago), it was sluggish, and turned on the check engine light. Turned out to be a vacumn type control over the turbo. Dealer *****ed that they had to fix it ($300 part).

Drove great after that. I don't think you could ever call a properly running E300TD sluggish. (except maybe compared to an E55)

I did have a failed maf 15K miles after purchase, so I don't rule that out either.

Sorry my post isn't more informative, it was really just the begining of my MB experience.

aklim · #13 10-24-2006, 01:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hatterasguy

Yep, bet you a six pack that she needs a MAF. $200. If you want it tell him no deal unless he fixes it.

Mass Air Flow Sensor alternative

scott19_68 · #14 10-24-2006, 02:13 PM

Quote:

It seemed to have a noisy idle. By this I mean it sounded really clunky like a big diesel truck under 1500 rpm then it sounded smooth.

The belt tension dampening system is probably warn out which makes the engine produce the clunky sounds. Watch for the idler pulley bouncing around at idle - I think the parts are cheap but it is something that might help you bargain some more.

nhdoc · #15 10-25-2006, 07:14 AM

They need to read the code and fix it not just reset the light. The turbo wastegate solenoid will both throw a code and cause the engine to be slow because there will be no turbo boost. That can be caused by either a defective solenoid ($150 or so) or the little paper filter on the end of the vent being clogged ($5). Either way it is not such a big deal, but the key is to get the code from the OBD system and resolve it.

I doubt the MAF would cause the engine to be sluggish but not cause the light to be on all the time. Uusally when the MAF goes bad it starts to be "out of range" and throws an OBD code to light the CEL but the car runs just fine. If the MAF were DOA it would throw the code and CEL light as soon as you started it up.