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  #1  
Old 11-02-2006, 06:57 AM
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Exclamation Timing Chain Master Link (85 300D) Options without the Tool

What are the Timing Chain Master Link (85 300D) Options without the Tool? The guy I usually borrow the Tool from is having memory loss and cannot locate it. I am replacing the chain on my 1985 Mercedes 300D but not having the tool, I am trying to enact a workaround.

I think I can press the Master link final outside link on. To do that I would use a C- Clamp with a hole drilled into the side that presses on the final link of the Master Link.(In a Master Link, there is first piece which is a link with two pins on it; a second piece with an intermediate link on it and a final piece which must be pressed on the two pins.) That hole would allow each of the pins to slip through the final outside link. This would have to be done twice.

Every parts listing calls this Master Link a "ball and peen" type link. Has anyone successfully closed the chain using a ball and peen hammer? If so can you please recite a brief summary of how you did so?

Finally is there a mythical link that uses a slip on clip? My buddy who lost the Tool swears that there are W123 300D chain options that allow you to choose a chain with a slip on clip, not a ball and peen link. Is this true, and if so does anyone know where you can get one?

Thanks!!

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  #2  
Old 11-02-2006, 07:58 AM
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The pin is very tight when it goes in... which is good.....and the pin is hard...also good... It does not take much " mushrooming" of the end of that pin to keep it in place...
And the actual thing they are calling for is very simple... the idea being that you must have an anvil effect to keep from placing pressure on the sprocket...and get a good mushroom...
All that is required is to have something steel and substantial... the head of a 2 lb hammer for instance...
This is not something you have to do fast... you may be familiar with usual peening the head of rivets ( which is really what this is ) where they work fast because they have much movement of metal to accomplish and the rivet is hot when they stick it into the hole...
This process is best done with two persons... one holding the backing ( hammer head ) in place firmly against the back of the pin...
and one person with a flat or concave punch and hammer.... be sure that the links are pressed together properly... then one medium blow on the pin... look to see if everything is ok... reclamp the links if need be...then repeat... carefully applied force is what you are looking for... no speed involved except in the hammer head...
There are great threads in the archives on this procedure...
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  #3  
Old 11-02-2006, 08:17 AM
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The replacement chain I bought came with the clip on link. At first I was a little worried that it might slip off, but its a pretty tight clip. You may be able to get the clip master link somewhere.
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  #4  
Old 11-02-2006, 08:30 AM
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Engine in or out?

I did mine with the engine out & the rest of the gears off, so I was able to peen the link on a bench, then installed the chain all together. Very easy though to peen. Not alot of side pressure on the link while running in the engine. Paul.
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  #5  
Old 11-02-2006, 08:35 AM
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Where did you buy it, do you recall?

Quote:
Originally Posted by rg2098 View Post
The replacement chain I bought came with the clip on link. At first I was a little worried that it might slip off, but its a pretty tight clip. You may be able to get the clip master link somewhere.
Where did you buy it, do you recall?
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  #6  
Old 11-02-2006, 08:38 AM
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Nice to see you around, Leathermang--painted my Car

Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
The pin is very tight when it goes in... which is good.....and the pin is hard...also good... It does not take much " mushrooming" of the end of that pin to keep it in place...
And the actual thing they are calling for is very simple... the idea being that you must have an anvil effect to keep from placing pressure on the sprocket...and get a good mushroom...
All that is required is to have something steel and substantial... the head of a 2 lb hammer for instance...
This is not something you have to do fast... you may be familiar with usual peening the head of rivets ( which is really what this is ) where they work fast because they have much movement of metal to accomplish and the rivet is hot when they stick it into the hole...
This process is best done with two persons... one holding the backing ( hammer head ) in place firmly against the back of the pin...
and one person with a flat or concave punch and hammer.... be sure that the links are pressed together properly... then one medium blow on the pin... look to see if everything is ok... reclamp the links if need be...then repeat... carefully applied force is what you are looking for... no speed involved except in the hammer head...
There are great threads in the archives on this procedure...

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  #7  
Old 11-02-2006, 08:50 AM
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The clip type master links are available but you've got to be sure it is compatible with your chain. Don't hammer on the gear... Motorcycle shops sell cheap chain breakers that can be made to work by actually pressing the center of the link pin and creating a shroom.

Clip type part number=

Iwisketten
part #0009970298
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  #8  
Old 11-02-2006, 09:01 AM
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Are you sure this is a Clip on Link?This what I get when i pull it up...

Quote:
Originally Posted by SootyPast View Post
The clip type master links are available but you've got to be sure it is compatible with your chain. Don't hammer on the gear... Motorcycle shops sell cheap chain breakers that can be made to work by actually pressing the center of the link pin and creating a shroom.

Clip type part number=

Iwisketten
part #0009970298
Are you sure this is a Clip on Link?This what I get when i pull it up...It looks like a Ball and Peen Clip. I already have the IWIS chain that goes with this BTW. Thanks for your help
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  #9  
Old 11-02-2006, 09:26 AM
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Peening type is more secure in my book... if you do use the clip type be sure it is placed ' looking ' in the proper direction... ie, the open ends do NOT go forward with respect to chain travel...

If a person has the gears off ... the Factory Shop manual says to buy a chain with NO master links in it.. ie, made in one piece ... this is how the original chain is on your car because they were able to assemble it like described above... from the front as compared to the bottom..

I don't know if full no link chains are buyable ?????... but you have the front gears off that is the way to go...
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  #10  
Old 11-02-2006, 11:07 AM
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I have the press if you want to borrow it. I can ship it out tomorrow.

(you pay costs)
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  #11  
Old 11-02-2006, 11:19 AM
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Please hold onto that thought

Quote:
Originally Posted by mplafleur View Post
I have the press if you want to borrow it. I can ship it out tomorrow.

(you pay costs)

How do I send you a deposit? Do you take PAYPAL?
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  #12  
Old 11-02-2006, 07:03 PM
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That part number if you read carefully has been superceded to a clip type.
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  #13  
Old 11-02-2006, 07:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carrameow View Post
Where did you buy it, do you recall?
The clip style came with the replacement chain from a local All European autoparts store.
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  #14  
Old 11-03-2006, 01:54 AM
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Here's a thread I saved a while back since I'm going to be rolling in a new chain on my '85 donor motor once I get the head back. Larry Bible mentions peening it with a ball-peen hammer, which is what I'm going to do.
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  #15  
Old 11-03-2006, 12:59 PM
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Use the proper tool, if the chain lets go your engine is a paper weight.

I did mine last spring, with the MB crimper you cannot tell which link is the master, it does a very good job.

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