I cracked the Timing Chain tensioner on my 1985 300D when loosening it to Tie my New Chain together--actually I didn't; it was Bad.
Until my new Timing Chain tensioner comes Monday, can I still adjust my Valves and remove and reinstall my IP Pump to retime it? I still have the correct relationship between TDC Cam and Crank, and I would like to adjust my Valves and retime my Pump. I think the relationships are guaranteed by the gear teeth, but I also realize the tensioner when inserted. does shift the cam timing a tad CCW.

Valves, yes, since it is clearance based on the cam lobe position. I would wait to do the IP until you get the new tensioner installed.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

I second that . Your timing could change with the new tensioner.

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My Truck.. 2007 DODGE, 5.9 Cummins, 6spd stick, 4X4. My car..1977 240D, OTHER WHEELS...1955 VW Oval window bug, European Delivery (Holland) with a 1700cc, 2 barrel, Porsche drum brakes. 1939 WILLYS Pick-up. 1967 Triumph 200cc Tiger Cub. 1976 Honda 550F 4cyl Motor Cycle.

What do you mean when you say it is "cracked". If it is just surface cracks then don't worry about it. If it is cracked through and allows excessive slack in the chain that is not normally there then I would not remove the IP until it is resolved. As already stated, valve adj fine no matter which, just make sure there is enough tension to keep it from jumping.

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Jim

Well, I'll take the contrary position on this.

The tensioner serves to take the slack out of the back side of the chain. It cannot affect the cam timing or the IP timing. So, if the drive side of the chain is taut, the resulting readings for cam timing or IP timing will be accurate.

Furthermore, the tensioner doesn't actually provide significant pressure (other than the spring) until the oil pressure comes up. So, there is a bit of slack in the chain when the engine is not operating, by definition.

Naturally, it's more difficult to achieve a taut situation on the drive side as the camshaft may tend to walk forward to alleviate the tension on the drive side of the chain. However, if counterclockwise torque is applied to the camshaft is to ensure tension on the drive side, the proper results will be obtained.

I see no issues in moving forward without the tensioner in place.

Do it, I did while waiting on my tensioner spring. No big deal.

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

I recently rolled in a new chain on the 240D. Without the tensioner in place, when I turned over the engine with the old chain, the chain was loose enough that the crank sprocket would slip in the chain. With the new chain I could not get this to happen.

So, my recommendation is never turn the engine over without a tensioner in place. The 240D tensioners do not have a ratchet, just a spring, so I am keeping my old tensioner for use when I roll in new chains on the 5-cylinder turbos. I presume it will fit - if not I'll reset the turbo engine tensioner and put that back in.

The old chain was fairly loose and I think the new tensioner spring is stronger. Replacing both ended by start-up "Rattle of Death" on the 240D.



Ken300D

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1982 300D at 351K miles
1984 300SD at 217K miles
1987 300D at 370K miles

After painting the car this summer, I have ZERO adrenaline, I'm beat. I just got the oil housing off. Whew without excitement, working on cars can be a Drag.