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#16
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Nevermind, I figured it out, pretty easy.
Got the back seal and side fuzz strips installed... everything looks good, but now my sunroof won't close all the way! Grrrr!!!! I think I probably need to loosen the side rails again and push the fuzz strips in further so they don't protrude as much. Anybody with a similar experience?
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1984 300TD Wagon |
#17
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It seems that when we tried to get mine to fit right, we adjusted the tension on the locking arms (at the back of the SR), so they pushed harder towards the outside edges. It took some playing around with it and mine still is not perfect, but at least it doesn't seem to be leaking anymore.
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" We have nothing to fear but the main stream media itself . . . ."- Adapted from Franklin D Roosevelt for the 21st century ![]() OBK #55 1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles 2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles 2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles |
#18
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Whew... About 8 hours, 5 paint gouges and 10 fits of fury later, I finished all 4 sunroof seals and got everything to line up correctly. Never want to deal with that again...
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1984 300TD Wagon |
#19
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The front seal, when installed at the factory, is glued to the bottom metal channel, which is actually part of the sunroof frame. Then the frame is mounted to the car's top from below. So if you take you car to a dealer for replacement of the seal, they will remove the headliner, drop the sunroof frame, and replace the seal w/o all the pushing and jamming of the seal. But this is going to be bloody expensive.
I found that once the top of the seal is installed, the bottom part is installed easier in 2 steps. The first step up to the last ridge on the bottom of the seal. The last is to lift the seal enough to push the final ridge in and over the metal channel w/o tearing it. Also, do it when the ambient temperature is nice and warm, keeping the rubber soft & plyable.
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![]() Don't Chrome them; polish them |
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