Normal Diesel Clatter or Impending Doom? - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

jbach36 · #31 12-30-2006, 08:55 AM

I don't know if it would help, but I saw this stuff at Auto Zone, Lucas Long Drain Oil. It stays on the gears longer, and prevents dry metal-to-metal starts. You add it in to your oil, I think. It's not a total oil replacement, but I'm not sure about that. They have a little wheel thing you play with, shows you the difference between regular and long drain oil. Big difference! They also say (if you call them), that it will make your engine last a lot longer.

jeff
1991 300d, 99k

Gurkha · #32 12-30-2006, 09:00 AM

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm

Take a look here, quite interesting.

Mark DiSilvestro · #33 12-30-2006, 09:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 240Dog

Dropping the lower engine block casing just to look at the oil pump screen - are you out of your mind? Try synthetic oil and replacing the filter cannister first. And there looks to be spring loaded oil pressure valve in the filter cann according to parts book (mod 123) catalogue B plate 18/3.

No. I'll be dropping the lower oil-pan to check the pump screen. I'd only remove the lower engine-block casing (AKA the upper oil-pan) if needed to check/replace bearings. So I was just wondering if anyone had removed the upper pan with the engine in the car, say with the engine mounts blocked up an extra 2 or 3 inches? I've been able to remove the oil-pan on many cars, including an '85 W201 190D, this way.

Happy Motoring, Mark

Mark DiSilvestro · #34 12-30-2006, 10:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jbach36

I don't know if it would help, but I saw this stuff at Auto Zone, Lucas Long Drain Oil. It stays on the gears longer, and prevents dry metal-to-metal starts. You add it in to your oil, I think. It's not a total oil replacement, but I'm not sure about that. They have a little wheel thing you play with, shows you the difference between regular and long drain oil. Big difference! They also say (if you call them), that it will make your engine last a lot longer.

jeff
1991 300d, 99k

My problem is not dry-starts, but loss of oil pressure after warmup. If it's a bearing problem, I think it won't be cured by oil-thickeners. and if my pickup screen is clogged, thicker oil with just make things worse.

Hot-idle has dropped steadily over the 1500 miles since I changed the oil (Rotella 15w40) & filter. It started out at around 1.2 - 1.5 bar after a 30 minute freeway run. I wasn't really alarmed till yesterday when it dropped below .5 bar after 20 minutes of non-freeway driving. The guage still tops out by approx 1500 - 2000 rpm. Strange thing is, after I shut it off for several minutes, the hot-idle pressure recovers to around 1.2 on the guage (but still drops to around 1.0 or less after several more minutes driving). So I'm wondering if I'm getting cavitation in the oil-pump due to a restricted pickup screen.

I know my guage could be goofy and I should be checking the oil-pressure with a test-guage, but I can drop the lower oil-pan and check the screen right away vs the time I'd need to track down or rig up an adapter for the test-guage.

As for any suspect oil pressure relief valves, my Haynes manual is pretty worthless on locating or checking it/them.

Happy Motoring, Mark