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  #1  
Old 11-07-2006, 08:05 AM
winmutt's Avatar
85 300D 4spd+tow+h4
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Atl Gawga
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80TD heating issue still.

How does the water portion of the regulator work? How can I test it. As best as I can tell everything is functioning in the vacuum system. Is the aux water pump partially responsible? How do I tell if its working. Its getting 12v. I get 0 heat and lots of fan.

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  #2  
Old 11-07-2006, 09:14 AM
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i assume that you are talking about the monovalve? i beleive it works by closing=cooler with power, no power= default to full heat. so if nothing else, try unhooking the wires to it.

i am getting luke warm air at times, and i know my valve diaphram is torn, so am wondering about pump operation, as well. does it turn off-on with the temp wheel?
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  #3  
Old 11-07-2006, 10:37 AM
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85 300D 4spd+tow+h4
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mobetta View Post
i assume that you are talking about the monovalve? i beleive it works by closing=cooler with power, no power= default to full heat. so if nothing else, try unhooking the wires to it.

i am getting luke warm air at times, and i know my valve diaphram is torn, so am wondering about pump operation, as well. does it turn off-on with the temp wheel?
No monovalve. This is the old style regulator.
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1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1994 E320 Cabriolet
1995 E320 Touring
2001 Eurovan FOR SALE
1985 300D car, sold and missed.
OBK #42
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  #4  
Old 11-08-2006, 07:21 AM
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85 300D 4spd+tow+h4
 
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bump.
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1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1994 E320 Cabriolet
1995 E320 Touring
2001 Eurovan FOR SALE
1985 300D car, sold and missed.
OBK #42
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  #5  
Old 11-08-2006, 09:36 PM
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look up some of my old posts on this subject. Mine crapped out, but it was apparently stuck in the open position. I took an old one apart for a look. The valve, when open, lets water through one side and back through the other. When closed it bypasses the water from one side to the other so the auxilliary pump isn't dead-headed.

All I had was heat. The easiest thing I found was to bypass the piece of crap. In order to do this you need to take care of the deadhead problem first. Mine has a wvo kit, so this was easy. Basically, it had a t in each of the lines to run coolant to a tank heater. If you want to do this you need to:
1. disconnect all 4 of the lines going to the valve.
2. Insert a t in each to mend them back together.
3. Take a short piece of hose and crossconnect on the t nipples. If you could get t's that had a smaller nipple on the t coming out of the side it would probably be better
4. get a manual shutoff valve that is cable actuated, and a throttle cable.
5. Cut the heater line on the firewall that goes to the heater core and install the valve.
6. on the drivers side kick plate under the headlight switch, droll a hloe to accept the throttle cable and run it through.
7. under the hood locate the big rubber piece where the electrical harness comes through. there will be an extra nipple with nothing coming through it. Nip the end off.
8. Push the throttle cable through the hole you made and connect the end to the valve.

pull for heat, push for cold. The only problem I had was a cheap throttle cable. It took Goliath to work it. I took it out and removed the middle (wire). I had an new brake line I got for my truck and couldn't use, so I used it for the sheath instead. Works slick as a whistle now.
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  #6  
Old 11-09-2006, 07:51 AM
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85 300D 4spd+tow+h4
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cconbalsam View Post
look up some of my old posts on this subject. Mine crapped out, but it was apparently stuck in the open position. I took an old one apart for a look. The valve, when open, lets water through one side and back through the other. When closed it bypasses the water from one side to the other so the auxilliary pump isn't dead-headed.

All I had was heat. The easiest thing I found was to bypass the piece of crap. In order to do this you need to take care of the deadhead problem first. Mine has a wvo kit, so this was easy. Basically, it had a t in each of the lines to run coolant to a tank heater. If you want to do this you need to:
1. disconnect all 4 of the lines going to the valve.
2. Insert a t in each to mend them back together.
3. Take a short piece of hose and crossconnect on the t nipples. If you could get t's that had a smaller nipple on the t coming out of the side it would probably be better
4. get a manual shutoff valve that is cable actuated, and a throttle cable.
5. Cut the heater line on the firewall that goes to the heater core and install the valve.
6. on the drivers side kick plate under the headlight switch, droll a hloe to accept the throttle cable and run it through.
7. under the hood locate the big rubber piece where the electrical harness comes through. there will be an extra nipple with nothing coming through it. Nip the end off.
8. Push the throttle cable through the hole you made and connect the end to the valve.

pull for heat, push for cold. The only problem I had was a cheap throttle cable. It took Goliath to work it. I took it out and removed the middle (wire). I had an new brake line I got for my truck and couldn't use, so I used it for the sheath instead. Works slick as a whistle now.
I'm just going to get one from the pull a part. This thing that really irks me is this is a replacement regulator. I had replaced it as part of diagnostics and never got around to fixing it .
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1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1994 E320 Cabriolet
1995 E320 Touring
2001 Eurovan FOR SALE
1985 300D car, sold and missed.
OBK #42
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  #7  
Old 11-09-2006, 09:54 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Central PA
Posts: 128
I had an '80 TD and the valve 'box' cracked, allowing antifreeze to flood the electric motor and kill it.
Like the previous lister, I bypassed the box with the first thing that fell to hand, which was a 1/2" brass ball valve.
Pop the hood, and: Open in winter, closed in summer.. easy

I replaced the vacuum actuated valve on my Audi with a manual unit from the F.L.A.P.S. for about $5-$10. Same deal. Open in winter..
Best of luck.
Mark
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  #8  
Old 11-13-2006, 01:11 PM
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85 300D 4spd+tow+h4
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Atl Gawga
Posts: 9,338
Went to pullapart this weekend. Bad news. No regulators . However...

Oddest thing happened. Auto HI/LO are no longer working, the fresh air flap is not actuating but DEF actually pumps out some luke warm air. I am going to do some more debugging ASAP. Has to be vacuum issue of some kind. I couldnt find anything ovbious I hope its not in the friggin center console AGAIN.
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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
1994 E320 Cabriolet
1995 E320 Touring
2001 Eurovan FOR SALE
1985 300D car, sold and missed.
OBK #42
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  #9  
Old 11-13-2006, 02:32 PM
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Dieseldiehard
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Bay Area No Calif.
Posts: 4,320
the servo tower switches vacuum to the hot water valve on the firewall and all the actuator pods under the dash, just look at the mess of vac lines which come into and out of it at the rectangular shaped plug.
When the motor starts sticking it will wind up in some combination that is either good for winter or good for summer. Worst case is it leaks fluid and your engine overheats
I presently have a stuck servo in my '79 300TD and consider myself lucky to have found a rebuilt one with low miles on it on eBay. Mine current servo is around 12 - 13 years old since I bought it for around $300 as a fresh rebuild so I figure I got my money's worth.
These things are the Achilles heel of the pre-monovalve Mercedes.
Put your mityvac on the hot water valve to actuate it open, apply 12V by jumper cable directly to the circulation pump (observe proper polarity) then drive the car and see what you get. If you don't have heat or enough of it its the Servo, as it has a valve at the bottom that allows coolant to flow into the vacuum operated water valve on the firewall. Its the motor in the Regulator/Servo that is probably goofed up and not working.

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