Had to think about that for a moment
LMAO

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BENZ THERE DONE THAThttp://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...c/progress.gif
15 VW Passat TDI
00 E420
98 E300 DT
97 E420 Donor Car - NEED PARTS? PM ME!
97 S500
97 E300D
86 Holden Jackaroo Turbo D
86 300SDL
(o\|/o)

I got the Last Laugh...I have the best 300D bar none now..

4. Check for cracked or broken CV boots.
5. Check operation of climate control including vacuum pods, a/c, heat.
6. Check operation of cruise control.

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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970

While you're checking the front end, take off the driver-side wheel and look at the pads. Check for a stuck caliper - really thin pad or missing sensor wires. Somehow the driver's side seems to stick most often - except one, every stuck caliper I have replaced has been the driver's side.

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1984 300TD

check all fluid levels and condition.

check for proper coolant type. Green means run away.

do the tea kettle oil cap dance test.

look at the condition of the motor mounts

look at the prefilter

check operation of all windows and sun roof

get a pre buy inspection done to uncover things you may have missed.

don't buy a car from the salted road rust belt areas of the country...

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D

1.Remove the Plastic Panel covers in the trunk on the right and left side. Check for rust in the Rocker Panel regions there.
2. Remove all the floormats and check for rust underneath on the floorboards.
3. Check the right and left front fenders at the points above the jacking points for rust. The sunroof drains exit there underneath the fenders and over the years leaves etc can collect and cause rust on the fenders.
4. Check the jacking points on the rocker panel for Rust

For the rust check i would add to the common inspection points:
-The roof of the trunk compartment
-The bottom of the doors(particularly front doors), if necessary remove partially the rubber door seal in the bottom part and check behind it.

I would also pay close attention to the climate controls and AC functions.

Now i think this list should also include the items that should not bother you at least not while shopping for a good driver:
Cruise control is almost a given that it won't work.
Rubber hoses coming in/out of the engine head and block should not be bothersome because you should assume that you will be replacing them all anyways.
Oil wetness is a subject where the localization of that said wetness is the difference between a negligible problem and a grave issue. Oil splattering coming from the front or rear of the engine is problematic, as well as the cooling lines (and that includes the transmission cooling lines).
Oil wetness only around the oil pan seal or under that is a minor issue. Just under the valve cover or on the valve cover should also not be a great problem.

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Aquilae non capunt muscas! (Eagles don't hunt flies!)


1979 300SD Black/Black MBtex239000mi
1983 300TD euro-NA. White/Olive Cloth-MBtex 201000mi. Fleet car of the USA embassy in Morocco
1983 240D Labrador Blue/Blue MBtex 161000mi

I've got about 6 months under my belt as a MB owner, and most of what i've read so far rings true.
A couple of things I would mention to look for are: Play in the steering linkage and or steering box. Mine had a lot of play in the box, most of which I was able to remove with the lash adjustment screw, but they never feel quite right again after making that adjustment...
Also, check condition of the air cleaner assembly and turbo u-tube. If they are loose/gapped, you may be looking at an expensive turbo repair/replacement in the near future.
Another area that was totally worn out on mine were the rear control arm bushings. The rear end of the car dances around a bit when accelerating/decelerating and vice-versa. Sometimes the tranny shifts will actually cause a clunk in the rear end from the suspension slop.

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'83 300D Turrrbo 295K miles