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  #1  
Old 11-16-2006, 06:56 PM
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210 chassis motor mounts

Time for motor mounts on mine. Just did a search and didn't find a great deal on the 210 chassis mounts - lots on the 123 though. Anything special I need to know? I plan to use OE rubber. I see the World Pac guys including Phil are selling Corteco/Freudenberg for one side and Febi for the other. Are those the OE mounts and what I'd get from Mercedes?

Thanks.

Len
'99 E300TD 98,000 miles

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  #2  
Old 11-16-2006, 10:22 PM
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The only tip I have heard is that in order to get to one of the bolts you need a very shallow socket. I had bought one made by a guy who turned one on a lathe to get it down to the depth that it would fit. I believe it is for the right side mount. It would prevent you from having to remove the arm from the block to R&R the mount on that side.

I haven't done mine yet but am saving the socket for the day I do...good luck, let us know how you do.
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Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz
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  #3  
Old 11-16-2006, 10:45 PM
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Location: Walnut Creek, CA & 1,150 miles S of Key West
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I did both mine (bought from Phil) last weekend.

Was pretty painless. Pull trans pan (to get more access on the D side), jack stands, loosen mounts, lift motor 1/2", etc.

Drivers side took an hour as top bolt is a little tight to get to and I was not trying to set any records. Removed from below and finished tightening from above as couldnt get leverage from below. Watch out for starter motor leads. Tight quarters from above but I have long arms so was possible.

Passenger side only took 15 minutes. You can get top bolt on and off from above with a extra long extensions and a (cant think of the name right now) swivel attachment.

Don't tighten down the bottom bolt of the first one you do but just "start" the bolt, this will allow you to get the second one out. The new ones were ~1/2" taller than old for me.

Mounts have a pin that locates them on the top engine support arm and two stops to help locate them on the bottom. Bolts just slipped right in for me. I did use thread locker as appeared was used previously.

D side from Phil has a latex boot that goes over it to protect it (from fuel?). Not necessary to remove heat shields from P side mount.

Need 12 and 16mm sockets. I used a 16mm wrench on the driver side in addition to the socket.

So quiet and smooth again I have been reaching for the key a second time all week thinking it wasn't running each time i start it.
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N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)
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  #4  
Old 11-17-2006, 06:41 AM
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Terry seems to be a great source of info on this...it has inspired me to take it on once I clear up the fuel leak that developed this week in mine!
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2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz
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  #5  
Old 11-17-2006, 11:54 AM
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Thanks guys. Mine is making a noise when I put it in reverse to back it out of the garage. It's really pretty obvious that the mounts need to be done. I asked about the OE manufacturer because I've heard of some guys who have had rapid failure of aftermarket mounts. I'll probably order mine today.

Len
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  #6  
Old 11-17-2006, 01:08 PM
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FYI - I priced them at the dealer today and they are $108 each (less 10% for my MBCA discount)...that's about $40-$50 more than aftermarket for the pair.
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2013 Lincoln MKz
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  #7  
Old 11-17-2006, 02:15 PM
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I don't know why Phil has two manufacturers listed for left vs. right. I did note the same on other online parts sites. Other than different names on the mounts they appeared to be identical products.
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N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)
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  #8  
Old 11-17-2006, 03:56 PM
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I just ordered them from Caliber Motors. Right or wrong, some of us just have a mindset that can't be changed. For me it's to only get rubber parts from the dealer. For others it's synthetic oil, etc. Don't confuse us with the facts. BTW, the parts were $81 for each side which is about the same as Phil's price. I'll see if there is a manufacturer stamped on them when I get them and let you know.

Len
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  #9  
Old 11-17-2006, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sokoloff View Post
I just ordered them from Caliber Motors. Right or wrong, some of us just have a mindset that can't be changed. For me it's to only get rubber parts from the dealer. For others it's synthetic oil, etc. Don't confuse us with the facts. BTW, the parts were $81 for each side which is about the same as Phil's price. I'll see if there is a manufacturer stamped on them when I get them and let you know.

Len
That's a very good price for the OEM parts. Like I said, with my MBCA discount my dealer's price is still $97 each.
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  #10  
Old 11-17-2006, 11:26 PM
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Caliber has always been good to me. They sell at wholesale which is generally 20% off MSRP. In this case MSRP would be about $100. Sounds like your dealer may be selling a tad over MSRP. Your MBCA discount takes you down to MSRP. I've seen dealer prices all over the place, but every time I've asked for a price break, the parts manager has always been pretty accommodating. Both of my local dealers will sell me parts at wholesale, but it's still just easier to pick up the phone and have Caliber ship the parts to me. My "local" dealers are almost an hour away.

Len
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  #11  
Old 11-22-2006, 04:23 PM
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Got the motor mounts today. Man, those are some beefy suckers!!

Just wanted to report the manufacturer for the OE mounts. I see Boge on one. The other one is marked with CFW - don't know if that is the manufacturer or not. That could be Corteco/Freudenberg, but I'm not sure.

Len
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  #12  
Old 12-15-2006, 11:07 PM
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Novice Project

Well, that took an hour from start to finish, we're talking from popping the hood to all tools up and hands washed. Next time it should be 30 minutes. This included the time to look the job over, find the mounts, see the bolts, approach angles, etc. 15 minutes of that was me looking for a long extension (one of my brothers must have been trying to hide it from me as it was not where it belonged, 10 minutes easy on that adventure alone.) Mine does not have as many miles as some others here, but was less than half an inch shorter than the new ones, no visible failure of the rubber, just compressed significantly. Does run smoother and quieter, person should probably just do it every 100k.

Only observations I have are:
16mm is for the upper bolts
13mm is for the lower bolts, not 12mm.
8mm for removing the platic belly pans.
I could have used more light and less feeling around.
I was able to use a 24" extension with the flex socket and was easily able to get the passenger side. The driver side was a bit of a "pool shot", but I did it standing in front of the car, shooting over the fuel filter area along the IP and under the IM.

Silly easy project. I went ahead and left the silly EPDM boot on the thing.

Tomorrow I'll change the oil and replace the Oil sending/level unit (it's leaking a little through it, not past the mounting O-ring)

Thanks to TMAllison for being the first to put some basics down to give me an incentive.

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