That didn't seem to be in the way. ?


So, I get to the screws from the back? And it comes off the front? Or do I in fact have to do what the illustration shows on the headlamp box and take a screwdriver and pry off the bezel and then unscrew the frame holding in the light? (Which looks monumentally idiotic as I'd be using the surrounding fragile plastic as a fulcrum with a blunt instrument.)

I first was reading the DIY pages and saw the Euro light replacement bit...but, for a whole lot of reasons I have to stick with this for a while.

edited cause I saw this:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Craig Use the three white knobs to remove the plastic "covers," then you can see the screws that hold the chrome rings around the headlights. Remove the chrome rings to get the headlights out.

The thing is, I took off the 3 white nuts and couldn't get the plastic back off. Tricks?

__________________
Growth for the sake of growth is the ideology of the cancer cell. -- Edward Abbey

1984 300SD: Hilda the veggie vundercar

The headlight door is not all that easy to slide forward. The turn signal light is going to really cause you problems, if it works at all.


The nylon nuts (three of them) come off from the back. Then, the headlight door (the large plastic surround that covers the outside of the assembly) must come off by sliding it forward. It may fight you a bit. Don't force it or it will break.......way too old for force.

Then, the four screws that hold the bezel for the headlight can be found just above and just below the headlight when looking from the front. The screws are removed from the front (use a magnetic screwdriver if you want to keep them).

The Euro light replacement is a more complicated job........if you are going with the full Euro light as found in a German vehicle. It's a completely different assembly and the headlight door is not used.

I'm not suggesting that you do that. However, there is a direct replacement headlamp that has a very good reflector and uses an H4 lamp. I've got a set of Hella's on the SD and they probably provide as much light as the Euro lights on the SDL.

Here is what I'm speaking about:

http://www.rallylights.com/hella/200mm.asp

For about $100., you get the performance of a full Euro light and keep the existing look with the headlight door.

Brian, thanks a lot. I was coming back here to post that with your and Craig's posts and full daylight, I was able to actually get the job done.

Should I pm whunter and ask for this to go on the diy links? That was where I first went and looked.

This place is great!

__________________
Growth for the sake of growth is the ideology of the cancer cell. -- Edward Abbey

1984 300SD: Hilda the veggie vundercar

Good job. It's always a PITA the first time. Then, in the dark and the cold, when the bulb fails, it's a PITA all over again.

Sure, let Roy know.......he's always looking for more stuff for the DIY........

'tis done!

__________________
Growth for the sake of growth is the ideology of the cancer cell. -- Edward Abbey

1984 300SD: Hilda the veggie vundercar

On my 85 300 SD California model, the headlight door (aka headlight frame) would not come off even pulling very hard and risking breaking. So I removed the entire headlight assembly by removing 2 bolts on top and one on the bottom, unplugging the electric cable, and sliding the headlight assembly to the front of the car. Eventually I was able to get the headlight frame off by prying gradually with the hl assembly out of the car. The hl frame was scraping on the bezel that holds the sealed beam. Bent it on the lateral side to reduce scraping.

Attachements are pic of 2 bolts to remove, headlight assembly and headlight frame. Bottom bolt is easily seen crawling under the bumper and looking up.

Attached Thumbnails