|
|
|
|
|
#1
12-03-2006, 04:54 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
What should I replace while the transmission is out?
Bruce Kennedy (user here) and I picked up a 1985 300sd from Peoria, Illinois over thanksgiving break. He needed the engine, and I the transmission.
Long story short, I'm putting the transmission from this parts car into my car. So, what needs done while its out of the car? I planned on replacing the fluid (with some synthetic) the filter the pan gasket and clean it up. I also plan to do the flex discs, and the transmission cooler lines. Should I do the K1 spring kit while it is out? What about the BX pistons? They're cheap, should I do them now? Is there seals that I should replace since it would be easier to do when out? Front seal? Can I get all this from Phil at fastlane? Thank you for any help. Last edited by 1985 300SD Sady; 12-03-2006 at 05:17 PM. 
|
|
#2
12-03-2006, 05:20 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
mayeb the front seal if it has good amount of milage.. i know mine drips a little
|
|
#3
12-03-2006, 05:24 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
What happened to the old tranny to cause it to die at 203k? I'm on the brink of 250k and its still shifting strong....
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-  '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
|
|
#5
12-03-2006, 10:18 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
Then it was overfilled for a short period of time (about a week) and also it was again overfilled a second time for the same amount of time. The level was all over the place. You can read more about it on my other thread entitled "Is my transmission toast?" My car is currently not driveable. It rarely shifts into 2nd, and never shifts to 3rd anymore. The fluid level is correct. I got a good deal on the parts car, even without the transmission. Regarding las : Wouldn't replacing the rear main on the engine require taking off the upper oil pan? is this not a major PITA to do? Should I do the K1 kit?
|
|
#6
12-03-2006, 10:39 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Rear main?
On a 617? That's a huge job, no? The five-pots use a rope seal on the back end of the crank. To change it, you have to pull the crankshaft, don't you?
Jay.
__________________
On the road, currently: '83 300D (German spec.) 168k mi. - - Wolfgang (tucked snugly away for the winter!) '87 300D 375k mi. - finally went over to "The Dark Side" '87 300TD 225k mi. Cannondale 66cm CAAD5 w/Campy/Jamis Aurora Hujsak Custom Fixie/Landshark Track Shark Custom/Ahearne Custom 29'er
|
|
#7
12-03-2006, 11:48 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
Throw in a trans mount, and those two annoying shifter rod bushings.
__________________
2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200
|
|
#8
12-04-2006, 03:09 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
I think you should replace all the seals you can't get to while the unit is in the car. B2 piston do break. Mine did. So, you might replace that too. All the valve body stuff you can do with it in the car.
I have to pull mine to reseal the front. How does the torque converter attach to the flex plate? I haven't started yet so it would be nice to know in advance.
__________________
98 E320 4matic Wagon 84 300SD (2 ea.) 51 Chev 1-ton PU Assorted old motorcycles Last edited by TomAllen; 12-04-2006 at 03:14 AM. Reason: add signature, corect typo
|
|
#9
12-04-2006, 05:42 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
And, I already replaced those shifter bushing with the transmission in the car  Good results!
|
 |
| Bookmarks |
|
|
Linear Mode
