I rounded over a head bolt on my Sunfire. I got all the rest off without much cussin', but this on won't budge.

Any thoughts?

Go to Sears, they make these little fittings that grab onto bolts of various sizes. They'll grip real hard. Then you turn these fittings with your wrench and the bolt will come off. I can't remember what they're called but they are amazing. 20 bucks or so.

Edit: they're called BoltOuts.

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1985 CA 300D Turbo , 213K mi

They have them at Lowe's, Kobalt Tools, as well......but if all else fails, or if you don't wanna spend the 20 bucks......grind off the bolt head.....lift the head off, and then grab the bolt with a pipe wrench.......do this carefully so as to not damage other stuff like the head!!!

SB

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Diesels:
'85 300D, "Max, Blue Benz", 155K, 27.0 MPG
'84 190D 2.2, "Eva, Brown Benz", 142K, 40.2 MPG
'77 240D (parts car)
'67 Eicher ES 202 Tractor "Otto" (2cyl, Air Cooled, 30HP)
Gassers:
'94 Ford F-150, "Henry", 170K (300 Six) 17.5 MPG
'85 190E 2.3, 148K....Parts Car
'58 Dodge W300M Powerwagon (Flat Fenders) Less than 10 MPG

An air chisel will work too in a worse case deal.

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

thanks for the info. this was an D.C. auction car that is going to be my gaughter's first car and she really likes it.

this car jumped time and I think it bent a valve. the engine won't rotate. I'm hoping that's all it is. It has twin overhead cams with a timing chain. the chain housing has 3 plastic chain slides ( one at 12 o'clock, nine o'clock and 3 o'clock) and a chain tensioner at about 7 o'clock. the 12 o'clock slide broke and I believe it let the slack chain jump at tooth.

anyway, thanks for the help. when I get the heads off to the machinist, I can start on the valve seal job for my '82 300SD. Maybe I can cure it's taste for 10W-40 (I hope).

I love this forum because threads like this aren't chastised because they're so crazily off-topic. It's been my experience that it's uncommon to see behavior like this in a typical forum (or maybe it's just the IT related forums I frequent?), just shows how much people here just like talking shop with other folks and making friends.

Mercedes Diesel enthusiasts rule.

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-justin

1987 300TD, 1987 300TD
2008 R32, 2000 Passat Wagon

justinperkins, you are so right. a gear head's a gear head. doubly so for diesel freaks. for the record, I currently own a 300SD, owned a 300SD previously and stupidly sold it (dumb!@!!!), and own a TDI Beetle and a Ram 2500 Cummins. Diesel's rule!

I assume that is the same engine used in "94 Cavaliers, it is actually a great engine, I have one with 210k on it, still running fine. The only major work I've done is a new head gasket. They are also one of the few fours of that era that use a timing chain vs belt, being a pushrod design. Both my daughters have used it.

Have had this happen more than once when I was rushing a Head change. Do tou have a MIG welder? Get a 1 inch nut. Set on top of damaged one. and fill it with weld. The heat will loosen the rounded bolt and the Bigger nut will give you a good surface to apply pressure to.

I believe it is the same engine as the Cavalier. it's the twin overhead cam 2.4L design. that's good to know about the mileage.

I went to Sears and bought the tool to get the rounded nuts off and it worked in about 10 seconds.

when I got the head off, I found 2 busted valves sitting on top of the same piston. all 4 pistons had eyebrow impressions in them and the one with the remains of the valve had a couple good gouges in the top. The head is gone; I believe it's cracked. There was evidence of water in one cylinder. My head man said not to bother trying to salvage it.

I'm looking for a used head, which I'll have him go through, and hopefully it'l go back together and run for a while. otherwise the car is in very nice condition.

thanks for all the help.