OM603turbo in a w201 chassis - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

reinier · #1 12-27-2006, 04:06 PM

This is what i posted at Mersuforum, and since i had a lot of help with all types of MB issues over here, i would also like to share this infor with you!

Okay, since yesterday, my w201 with om603turbo is on the road. Took it for a spin to the Nurburgring, but unfortunately the Ring was closed. But it was a nice and long drive, especially since this is a 'new' car to me (never driven a w201 with 603T before)

Especially the Finns on this forum helped me build it, and sometimes I was a bit afraid of asking AGAIN some technical questions.
On the other hand, I hate to invent the wheel myself, again, and thats why it is nice to have people who can help and already done such a thing.
So to prevent, that other people begin asking the same questions that I asked, here is a sumup of the things that i did to have a OM603 turbo in my w201 (2.3-16 originally)

engine: w124 300 turbo
starter: w124 300 turbo
flywheel and clutch: w201 2.3-16
getrag dogleg manual gearbox: w201 2.3-16
aluminum engine mounts which are bolted to the engine: w124 300turbo
rubber engine mounts: w201 2.3-16
rear gearbox mount and support: w201 2.3-16
cardan axle: w201 2.3-16, but shortened by 40 mm on a turning lathe

The 3 shift bars (2.3-16) I shortened also 40 mm.
The steel plate/support which is under de gearbox rubber, is also from the 2.3-16, but the holes for the bolts that go in the chassis, are sleeve-holes now (round file)

tacho-cable can be used from a 2.3-16 also, and the clutch hose is also re-usable from the 2.3-16.

On the front of the engine: Use a steering pump from a w211 e230 or e240 gasoline car, otherwise you cannot fit a big radiator.
radiator I took is from a w124 300D NON turbo.
w124 Turbo radiator is to wide IMHO

On the top the radiator can be clamped to the original w201 chassis part. On the bottom you have to make a custom steel support system for the radiator.
Cut of the original DOWNSIDE radiator mounts of the w201 chassis, you cannot use them.
On the custom steel support, i also mounted the w124 300 turbo Oil cooler, on the drivers side, behind the bumper, on the same place where it is in a w124.

Water hoses: DIY
I used different hoses from the junkyard, cut them, shortened them, connected them (with peices of tube) in another angle etc.
I also let a friend of mine who is a plumber, bend a steel water tube, which goes from the dash-heater to a pipe beneath the turbo.

Rear diff: original 2.3-16 is WAY too short.
I used the 2,65 from the w124 300 turbo, but changed the rear cover and 3-claw to use it in the w201 chassis.
At the moment my car is mounted on 205-60-r15 tires (originally 55 height).
For track use it would be nice, but yesterday on the autobahn, I constantly felt like shifting to 5th gear, when it already WAS in 5th.
So maybe its better to search for a diff. from a w124 400E. I read somewhere that that one is about 2,42, so a bit more overdrive than 2,65. I didnt measure top speed yet, because my tacho wasnt working, but I dont think you will reach 200 KMph without overrevving with the 2,65 and getrag.
Automatic box is overdrive in top gear (and therefore better for economy and highway use), but for track use not ideal i think.

Also you can mount bigger wheels and tires (17's 18'maybe) to make up for the short drive-ratio.

Anti roll bar on the front: w124 300TDT, which is 28 mm thick.
On both sides cut off about 1,5 cm.
Steel plate mounts for the AR-bar: I cut the w124ones in half, and the w201 ones, and used the TOP sides (chassis) of the w201, and the BELOW sides (AR-bar) of the w124, and welded them together.

I used a bilstein spring&damper set for a w201 2.5turbo or 2,6 gasoline, but cannot tell much about handling yet, because my car has to be checked for steering geometry.

You can lower the weight of the front bumper drastically (underneath: impact-foam, and alu bumper bar) for a bit compensation of the heavy om603, but when you hit something: bye bye front bumper.

For the rest: vacuum system, electronics (not much), steering hoses, fuel hoses: DIY, DIY, DIY

It is nice to buy a complete DONOR w124, because you need some other parts also, and that way it would be cheaper than buying everything apart.

If I left anything behind, or you wanna know something: feel free to ask.
I'll see I I can place some pictures in the future.

Driving: I think the car isnt much slower than with the original 2.3-16 engine, and I am talking STANDARD turbo, STANDARD injection pump and NO intercooler (first upgrade), but very cheap fuel
In a few days I can tell a bit more about performance, by comparing to a friend's car.

Forgotten:

The first exhaust pipe that I use is from a w124 300turbo.
The accelerator cable is from a w201 2.3-16, but i had to modify the bracket on the engine a little bit (sawing, bending, and then welding again)

I threw the rear SLS dampers in the dustbin, so no need for a combined steering/SLS pump.

Standard engine, only removed the ALDA, and fitted a K&N. And only one exhaust muffler (middle one).
So lets say only 147 bhp.

This afternoon i went for a spin with a friend of mine, who has a Clio Williams which is a bit tuned, and pulls 153,8 hp at the WHEELS.

Couldnt keep up with him off course (a bit more hp, and a 990 kilo car), but for a DIESEL....

Difference from 0-100 was about a second i guess, but from 100 to 160 the difference was a lot less. Almost could keep up with him. Torque, i guess.
With a IC, standard turbo, and the IP turned up (full load), Mauri says 180 bhp MAX is possible.
Then I can keep up with that piece of rust

But first some details to finish (pre-glow, engine shut of, RPM gauge and some other (interior) things), and then I am gonna fit a IC.
But I dont plan on going very far in tuning the engine. Sometime a bigger turbo and IP modification maybe, but at the moment i am also busy with fitting a M119 with M5 manual box in a w201, and i also have a 'piece of rust' lined up for preparation, and then track use.

Just a fast, daily cruiser, which is cheap to run fast, thats my goal with the w201 3.0DT.

Pictures can take a while, but maybe the only picture thats really interesting is the pic of the custom radiator&oilcooler support. I'll put a link here of the pic that was inspirational to me in this matter.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/kolja1/Pekka/mersuroekti005.jpg

I made mine from square steel bars, and BOLTED to the chassis, and at the drivers side (left) an extension which supports the oil cooler.

#2 12-27-2006, 11:25 PM

Good work. Lets see some more pictures!

chuni959 · #3 03-23-2008, 08:11 PM

I LOVE YOU! Pics if you got em man! Im doing the same thing but with the 2.6 5-speed trans. That 1:1 5th gear of the 16v just blows

#4 03-23-2008, 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuni959

That 1:1 5th gear of the 16v just blows

Then don't use it. The normal 5-speeds in the 2.3 g@sser, 2.2 and 2.5 diesels are common.

Jetmugg · #5 03-24-2008, 12:15 AM

Reiner:
You are my new hero. My head is spinning with the possibilities...... Seriously nice work there.

SteveM.

C Sean Watts · #6 03-24-2008, 12:19 AM

"image moved or deleted"

slarson80 · #7 03-24-2008, 12:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by C Sean Watts

"image moved or deleted"

Same here

chuni959 · #8 03-24-2008, 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuni959

Im doing the same thing but with the 2.6 5-speed trans.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ForcedInduction

Then don't use it. The normal 5-speeds in the 2.3 g@sser, 2.2 and 2.5 diesels are common.

.....

85300DT · #9 03-26-2008, 06:40 PM

So interesting, pity no pics. I'm considering dropping a OM616 into my '84 w201. Thinking outside the box is good...

wolf_walker · #10 03-26-2008, 08:54 PM

Possibly silly question here, but do the 16v cars have the expanded engine bay that the 2.6L cars have? I'd been led to believe swapping a longer motor into a 4cyl car with the non-removable radiator support was a real pain.

Love to see photos.

chuni959 · #11 03-26-2008, 10:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wolf_walker

Possibly silly question here, but do the 16v cars have the expanded engine bay that the 2.6L cars have? I'd been led to believe swapping a longer motor into a 4cyl car with the non-removable radiator support was a real pain.

Love to see photos.

no, they got the welded center support. Im pretty sure its not that hard to get the 2.6 in there if you have a load leveler. Worst case scenario, you have to install the trans after the engines in.

wolf_walker · #12 03-27-2008, 04:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuni959

no, they got the welded center support. Im pretty sure its not that hard to get the 2.6 in there if you have a load leveler. Worst case scenario, you have to install the trans after the engines in.

Hmm.. Now that is interesting to know. I'm looking at a late 190E 2.3 soon, more possibilities..

reinier · #13 04-14-2008, 03:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuni959

no, they got the welded center support. Im pretty sure its not that hard to get the 2.6 in there if you have a load leveler. Worst case scenario, you have to install the trans after the engines in.

I made the upper radiator bar (with the hood lock in it) detachable with screws.
With a load leveler, and an electric winch/crane howdoyoucallit, putting in the complete package (603 with trans) is simple.