Thanks for the help. That is a very good DIY article, and those exploded views will not only help me with this project, but also in hooking up my air vents that were disconnected from the heater when an aftermarket AC was put in. Any chance that I could remove the switch with the center console in place going through the radio hole?

__________________
1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

Getting to the switch is a PITA. Between the radio and Ac controls is a partial panel so it makes it difficult to get to. To do it I would try the following. Remove the AC control panel. Remove the wood trim (or plastic if such) above the AC controls. this allows better access to the switches. to remove the switch you have to remove the nuts and washers, remove the panel and slide the switch to wards the larger opening to the drivers side. Look at the rivet picture. You can see how the hole is larger to the drivers side. Move the switch out the hole to wards the rear. Disconnect the harnesses and now you have to try to get the switch up and out through the upper switch panel or the radio access area. This could be a PITA.

Option 2 is to remove the center console side panels for better access.

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W123Evaporator

Picture 35 shows how to remove the carpet side panels.The screws in picture 31 and then the clips in #35 and the carpet can be removed from the center panel. A smaller PITA. be gentle with the carpet panel you don't want you to crack the fiberboard. It's pretty resilient just be careful. I would recommend the drivers side carpet panel since you have to get access to the bowden cable. If you can't get access to the switch for removal then you will have to remove the center console.
sometimes access is easiest when you do the job as described in the Service Manual. Which would have you remove the driver seat and the center console.

Attached are large pictures of the drivers side with the center console removed. I cut it into 4 parts so you can print it out and connect them. Agin this is for the 240D with AC

Dave

Attached Thumbnails

       

__________________
1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car

Mine has been stiff since I replaced the dash. I think probably best way to lube this cable would be to take it all the way out, soak it in a tub of your favorite lube (wd40 to loosen and something else for lube?).

__________________
http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

Or you could do what I did today. Pull off of a junkyard car. It was super smoothe in the yard so hopefully it will work fine when I get it into my car.

- Peter.

__________________
2021 Chevrolet Spark
Formerly...
2000 GMC Sonoma
1981 240D 4spd stick. 347000 miles. Deceased Feb 14 2021
2002 Kia Rio. Worst crap on four wheels
1981 240D 4spd stick. 389000 miles.
1984 123 200
1979 116 280S
1972 Cadillac Sedan DeVille
1971 108 280S

I had a similar problem with my 1982 240d. The fan speed knob controls the cable that goes to the blower motor. Remove the passenger side panel under the glove box and lube the cable with a bike cable lube tool. You have to pry off the clip that holds the cable in place. It will go flying when you pop it off.

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Lubricator-Lubricant-Motorcycle-Scooter/dp/B009YEYL0I

My blower knob is very easy to turn now.

pete