'99 E300 Ip Gasket Repair - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

cessna5354 · #1 01-14-2007, 08:08 AM

I have a slight leak one injection fuel line gasket top of the IP. I am thinking of doing this repair myself, but will ask of any cautions. My '83 is running great with a new fuel system, so I have trans. in the meanwhile.

What else should I look to replace while I have the manifold off the car. I currently have 178K highway miles on the vehicle. Glowplugs? Fuel lines?
Also what if any gasket or material for the intake manifold flange surface? Any hoses?

Any assistance will be greatly appreciated.
Gary

Parrot of Doom · #2 01-14-2007, 08:19 AM

Well you should clean the manifold out if theres any gunge in there.

You should also remove and clean all the glowplugs, bearing in mind the risks involved of course.

For the IM gasket, I just reused the old one with a bit of gasket paste.

cessna5354 · #3 01-14-2007, 09:01 AM

Thanks, and I also forgot, happens frenquently since I hit 50 + years old.

Should I look to replace the injectors?? I have a fair amount of Blk smoke on strong acceleration, however I drive like Ms. Daisy, 70+ mph, but a while to get there. Mileage is 28 summer 30-31mpg winter.

Maybe, I am over repairing here.....

Thanks,
Gary

autobahnauto · #4 01-14-2007, 09:06 AM

make sure you keep it clean and observe the proper torque on the delivery valves. You'll also need a special tool to loosen and torque the holders. Check the fuel line o-rings for any seepage and I'd replace the glow plugs and ream the holes.
Dave

raMBow · #5 01-14-2007, 09:47 AM

I would replace the fuel lines.

Take injectors to Bosch Shop for testing/cleaning - Special Tool required.

O-Rings at the delivery valves.

Fuel lines
606-070-05-32 $18.20
605-070-14-32 $11.80
605-070-07-32 $12.60
605-070-08-32 $12.60
606-070-04-32 $11.20
605-070-15-32 $19.60

There are some other O-Rings and Seals with these lines - I did not trust the parts guy when I got these last week, but here are the numbers.

601-997-04-45 - Seal Ring VL - quantity 3? @ $4.48 each
601-997-03-45 - Seal Ring VL - quantity 1? @ $3.92 each
007603-01102 - Ring General - just 2? @ $1.80 each

606-141-01-80 $12.50 - Intake gasket
606-997-06-45 $4.00 - O-Ring at EGR I got 2 read that is the right number?

Oh some plastic bits once you start taking manifold off. ( Double check these numbers, I have pulled them from various posts on this website, so just check, I have not ordered these myself yet.)

95 - A 603 078 01 41 - Bracket (Qty 7)
92 - A 601 078 03 86 - Shim (Qty 7)
104 - A 601 078 26 41 - Bracket (Qty 2)

Here is a quote from somewhere here I also put in a word doc..
"I've read in previous threads (ref) that the delivery valve copper seals and O-rings for the 603 are the same as for the 606. I cannot find these items on Fastlane for my '98 E300D but they are available for the late model 603's ('95 S350D for example).

Can anyone verify this information? If yes, any idea what other parts would be the same as well?
Phil can confirm this. Look for his phone number in FastLane and call him.
they are the same for '87 300D OM603 as for '95 S350D
p/n 004 997 45 40 Cu Washer and
017 997 41 48 O ring.
just did this job this morning on my 606 and yes, they are the same. Use the part numbers in the above reply and good luck!" ... End of Quote

Another Quote somewhere "I had a leak on top of the shutoff valve
Bud, you ARE going to need o-rings as well as the copper crush washers. Be VERY, very careful not to lose the spring inside. It's inexpensive but it will end up coming from Germany.

Part numbers:
O-ring A 017 997 41 48
Copperseal A 004 997 45 40
Spring is
A 000 074 37 93" End of Quote

Well another Quote...
"1. New hose and terminator for the injectors. Those are the return lines and the last one has nowheres to go so there is a terminator. They are some sort of viton line and the injectors are daisy chained together till the last one. You will see 2 nipples on each injector. Hose comes in 1 metre length and you will have to cut to fit. Hint, wait till you get the injectors screwed in before you do it, Then you can put the fuel line from the IP in. A 605 078 05 81 and 605 070 00 55

2. Plastic clips for the fuel lines. Probably break a few taking it out because it is brittle from the engine heat. A 603 078 01 41 Bracket (Qty 7)

3. O-ring for the EGR to intercooler pipe A 606 997 06 45

4. Injector Seals. Put concave side up as when you remove. A 601 017 00 60 (Qty 6)

5. Intake Manifold Gasket A 606 141 01 80

Lets not forget the magical socket that dieseladdict refers to that I now own. $20 approx.

Go from beneath to get to the hex bolt holding the EGR to the manifold. Take off the middle belly pan as tho you were draining oil.

OM606 injector socket
Thanks, I just ordered it from the local dealer. The part # is 606-589-00-09-00.
Buy the proper socket from MB. With the right socket they come right out like on any other diesel" End of Quote

Shut Off Valve Gasket and/or O-ring between shut-off valve and injection pump.

Diesel Injection Pump Socket - The part # is 606-589-00-09-00
Special Socket for Injectors - 606-589-00-09-00.
Special Socket for GP's - read up on this one heavily - get the engine hot, and immediately take off IM and get GP's out, that's the latest rumor I've noted a few times here.
Special GP reaming tool.

Ok this is the same project I am working toward myself right now and have about half the parts, but it looks fairly easy.

Enjoy - I may just email you my word doc sifted from here.

aklim · #6 01-14-2007, 10:01 AM

Take GPs out and clean the threads on the plugs and be liberal with the anti-seize on the threads. Change the EGR O-ring while you are there. Also use new IM gasket. DO NOT REUSE. Have injectors professionaly inspected and cleaned if needs be. Mine were at 100K and one of them was spraying badly with low pop-off pressure. Change fuel filters. O-ring at the shutoff valve while you are there. Hot tank the manifold.

scott19_68 · #7 01-14-2007, 10:21 AM

Nice write-up by raMBow. That was my post questioning the use of the late-603 delivery valve O-rings and copper seals in the 606 and yes, they fit and work great. Go ahead and order all new fuel delivery lines and make sure to change the one from the fuel heater to the pre-filter since it is the one that leaks first. I cut the hose off at the pre-filter fitting on my old one and used it with some clear tubing for my diesel purge setup. Works great!

I've also read that some recommend the old style non-metallic intake gasket but I would stick with the metallic type. Aluminum-aluminum interfaces in the present of heat requires good thermal conduction to avoid fatigue cracks.

Straight diesel fuel will barely make a dent in the gunk coating the intake manifold. I've heard bio-D or specialty cleaners work well. Some professional mentioned that he uses a steam cleaner.

sokoloff · #8 01-14-2007, 10:59 AM

POR's Marine Clean really works well on the manifold crud.

Len

nhdoc · #9 01-14-2007, 11:13 AM

I know this will ruffle feathers but I am not a fan of R&R the glow plugs just to see if they are stuck or not. My philosophy is this...don't touch them until they need replacement then replace only the one(s) that need it. It's unclear to me that time/mileage is the deciding factor in whether they are seized or not. In other words...I'm not convinced that a glow plug will not be stuck after, say, 2 years but will somehow get stuck after 4 or more. So I don't see the point in taking them out and putting old ones back unless you are convinced that time is a factor.

I'd leave well enough alone. R&R of old ones seems an un-necessary risk of encountering a seized plug or two now that you may not need to deal with for years. To those of you who would say this is just living in denial, I guess I'd say all of car maintenance is staving off the inevitable...but I just don't see looking for trouble here.

When I bought my '98 I changed all the GPs as PM...in hindsight that was very risky and if I had known then what I know now I would not have done it. Mine were all originals and came out without too much trouble after 7+ years so it probably wouldn't have mattered if I had left them in there another year or two or as long as it would have taken for one to fail. Now I know the ones in there have 2 years on them, and I don't plan on touching them until it is absolutley necessary...even then I only plan on replacing them as they go out...not all 6 at once again.

TMAllison · #10 01-14-2007, 12:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nhdoc

I know this will ruffle feathers but I am not a fan of R&R the glow plugs just to see if they are stuck or not. My philosophy is this...don't touch them until they need replacement then replace only the one(s) that need it. It's unclear to me that time/mileage is the deciding factor in whether they are seized or not. In other words...I'm not convinced that a glow plug will not be stuck after, say, 2 years but will somehow get stuck after 4 or more. So I don't see the point in taking them out and putting old ones back unless you are convinced that time is a factor.

I'd leave well enough alone. R&R of old ones seems an un-necessary risk of encountering a seized plug or two now that you may not need to deal with for years. To those of you who would say this is just living in denial, I guess I'd say all of car maintenance is staving off the inevitable...but I just don't see looking for trouble here.

When I bought my '98 I changed all the GPs as PM...in hindsight that was very risky and if I had known then what I know now I would not have done it. Mine were all originals and came out without too much trouble after 7+ years so it probably wouldn't have mattered if I had left them in there another year or two or as long as it would have taken for one to fail. Now I know the ones in there have 2 years on them, and I don't plan on touching them until it is absolutley necessary...even then I only plan on replacing them as they go out...not all 6 at once again.

Well said Marty.

Mine also were replaced and came out easy at 110K (note the factory does not anti-seize them but does install them at the correct torque). It was "necessary" to remove mine as 1 was bad and 2 had very low resistance and based on that wear I decided was appropriate to replace all of them at that time. Not certain that I would make the same descision today knowing what I do now. The new plugs (beru's) are 2.5 y/o and have 85K on them.

I also have no intention of testing fate and "checking" to see if operational plugs are seized; they will stay there until they are dead OR until such time as the head comes off for some other reason, which in my opinion, would be the ONLY time a known good plug should be pulled given the propensity for disaster.

SpeedRacer · #11 01-14-2007, 12:26 PM

I must say I agree with nhdoc. I did not need to change my GP's, the only reason I choose to was because everyone recommended to while I had my intake manifold off. I thought it would be good preventative maintenance, boy was I wrong.

My advise is wait till your car will not start to change your GP's, the chances of breaking them are very high. It will be the same PIA to change now or 5 years from now, so wait till you have to.

raMBow · #12 01-14-2007, 12:39 PM

The concern for disaster are well documented here and even in active threads, unfortunately.

If a person is not a long-term owner, intending several years if not a decade or more of service then I tend to think differently.

I do not think there is a definative answer as to causes of the dreaded stuck plugs.

However, if one has new GP's in day one and they are going to get stuck at some point in the future, say 5 years or 10 years, then at points between those two extremes it will be easier. A person could take a plug out and redo it every Saturday, which is obviously to much, there has to be a balance point somewhere in between.

To me once a person knows they have all 6 out and new, why not invest in taking them out once every year or two?

As stated you could just wait until one is stuck and then take it to a shop and not try any extreme removal techniques.

I will try soon, so if one is stuck then you can laugh at my self-inflicted plight.

cessna5354 · #13 01-14-2007, 01:14 PM

Thanks for all the information, as I feel confident to proceed. Great write up there raMBow. I also tend to agree however with nhdoc and tmallison as the car preheats fast and never a problem. I may pass on pulling the GP's until req'd.
raMBow, were those part numbers and prices from Fastlane or your local Dealer ?? I will check it out and proceed.
As I remember my dealer said the tool for the torq holders was about $50.

Also, a different note was I priced out a tank strainer and hoses from a dealer in AC, NJ and another 60 miles away and Atlantic City was 50 % MORE. I was shocked the difference.

Terry, how is my fav restraunt in Walnut Creek with the pistols on the wall ??? I used to travel for bus. in Ca. would take my wife's uncle out to dinner there often. Neat down town area, but it has been 10 years ago. Art Deco style, with a very old original movie theatre...

Thanks I now have another project of distraction...
Gary Pasternak

aklim · #14 01-14-2007, 01:17 PM

I disagree with the wait and see attitude. While it is not stuck in 5 years, it might get stuck by say 8. The longer it stays in place, the better the chances of getting corroded and stuck. Leave a piece of lower grade SS in the elements. 1 year, maybe ok, 5 years, rusted like hell.

cessna5354 · #15 01-14-2007, 01:27 PM

Alkim, you are killing me, just as my concious .... I mean that in a really positive manner. I have been a engineer in all kinds of industry and most sucessful when I was proactive in my actions, Not a wait and let the problem come to me....
I would always change out the coolant, hoses, and water pump in my garage, when I feel like it and not 30K or 50K miles later along side the highway just after a failure.

I may recant my position... Aklim the voice from within....

Thanks Gary