Subframe Bushing Tapered Bolt Removal - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

SW · #1 01-20-2007, 11:59 PM

I'm replacing the subframe bushings in my '83. I R&R'd the driver's side bushing without a problem. It took me less than an hour.

The passenger side is giving me trouble. The tapered bolt rotates but is not backing out at all. I got it loose using an 18" breaker bar and then used my impact to spin it out, but it wont back out. I thought the bolt might be broken, so I tried to pry the bushing out, but no go. I'm stumped. Any ideas?

mobetta · #2 01-21-2007, 03:20 AM

you gotta keep turning it. it will break free of the rubber mount,and come out. both mine had become one with the metal sleeve inside the bushing. I ended up carefully slitting them lengthwise with a dremmel.

out of 3 afternoons to r&r the rear suspension on my car, I'd say 1/2 the time was spent on those sumbeaches. use antiseize, lots of it, on reassy.

SW · #3 01-21-2007, 08:58 AM

Hey thanks man! I think you're right because I can feel the bolt come down and then pop right back up. That means its probably on the last thread but its fused with the sleeve and therefore, not backing out. I'll keep trying and if it doesn't back out, I'll get out the die grinder and start cutting.

crashone · #4 01-21-2007, 09:36 PM

Try using a pry bar to keep some down ward pessure on the subframe while turning the bolt. A little ackward but may help. I used a bottle jack to help.

SW · #5 01-21-2007, 10:40 PM

Tried the pry bar with a bottle jack trick as well. Still the sum***** wont back out. I even rigged up a base with some sockets and my 1/2 ratchet so that I could attach a puller tool onto the flanges of the mount. The mount will move down alomost 1" from the subframe. However, the bolt wont move with the mount. I'm afraid that watever the bolt attaches to is rotating with the bolt.

mobetta · #6 01-21-2007, 11:01 PM

how rusty ids the car? you can pull the seat bottom and check it out, see if it's spinning.

FWIW- i did my grinding after removing the bolt. they were fused to the mount and it was a real paiin to get out. the rubber had to be cut away on one side. on the othe ri just went back and forth with a big breaker bar, and then a impact wrench. hours later, I was done.

dmorrison · #7 01-22-2007, 02:53 PM

Get some PB blaster and pry down the bushing as much as you can. Soak the hell out of the bushing and mount. Spray it a couple of times over the day and the next day try using crow bars to remove the bushing. If the bolt is lowering 1 inch then the bolt is either broken ( hope not) or it's the bushing that is stuck. My bet is that it's the bushing. The BP blaster is designed for metal but it should help with the rubber due to it's penetrating abilities.

If that does not work then you may have to take a sawsall to the bushing. Cut the bottom flange off and dig out the rubber and center section.

The sawsall was the primary restoration tool on my sons 65 Mustang, that and a welder.

Dave

Shorebilly · #8 01-22-2007, 03:25 PM

You might try heating that bolt, good and hot......

Several years back I did this while replacing the trailing arm on a 240D....and replaced it with a trailing arm from a 300D parts car .....seems that I had to beat that bolt out of at least one of the bushings!!!! Was a real pain.....

SB

SW · #9 01-22-2007, 10:49 PM

Thanks guys. Again, the bushing moves, but the bolt remains stationary. I cant even get the suframe to move down. I'm 99% sure that whatever the bolt threads into is spinning. Maybe this coming weekend I'll pull the back seat out and see if I can access the top of bolt.