When you say that adhering to the exact torque specifications is necessary, does this apply to regular maintenance items that I do often, like changing my oil? If so, I wasted a whole lot of money on wrenches, when I should just be using a single torque wrench to screw in every bolt.

__________________
"There are a lot of pebbles on the beach, but there's a Little Rock in Arkansas."

Logan

1983 300D Turbodiesel
1976 300D Rustdiesel

I do....because the last thing that I want is a stripped oil drain bolt hole.....and it is the best way to prevent leaks, proper seal ring, proper torque!!

After spending a career performing maintenance and repairs, one does get a feel for sufficient torque.....

And....if you adhere to the MB torque specs you will probably need 3 torque wrenches to be able to cover all torque values mentioned in the MB manuals....a 1/4" , 3/8", and 1/2" drives......there may be a very few instances where a 3/4" drive would be needed but I have not found those as yet.......

SB

__________________

Diesels:
'85 300D, "Max, Blue Benz", 155K, 27.0 MPG
'84 190D 2.2, "Eva, Brown Benz", 142K, 40.2 MPG
'77 240D (parts car)
'67 Eicher ES 202 Tractor "Otto" (2cyl, Air Cooled, 30HP)
Gassers:
'94 Ford F-150, "Henry", 170K (300 Six) 17.5 MPG
'85 190E 2.3, 148K....Parts Car
'58 Dodge W300M Powerwagon (Flat Fenders) Less than 10 MPG

No, you didn't waste your money. The wrenches are used to hold the bolt while you torque tne nut on the opposite end.

But a well-equipped tool box needs at least two torque wrenches, maybe three or four. And make sure the wrenches are calibrated in Newton/Meters. Under no circumstances should you use a ft/lbs wrench on a Mercedes!!!

Agreed.....but you can convert, just will have to get as close as you can with the in/lb or ft/lb scale.....

A metric torque wrench isn't all that easy to find....at least not here in WV....if you have a few extra dollars....and like really neat stuff.....visit a Snap-On truck and check out the new digital torque wrenches.....cost over $300....but you can select whatever measuring system that you want, digitally on the LCD screen......

SB

__________________

Diesels:
'85 300D, "Max, Blue Benz", 155K, 27.0 MPG
'84 190D 2.2, "Eva, Brown Benz", 142K, 40.2 MPG
'77 240D (parts car)
'67 Eicher ES 202 Tractor "Otto" (2cyl, Air Cooled, 30HP)
Gassers:
'94 Ford F-150, "Henry", 170K (300 Six) 17.5 MPG
'85 190E 2.3, 148K....Parts Car
'58 Dodge W300M Powerwagon (Flat Fenders) Less than 10 MPG

Are the Craftsman torque wrenches from Sears acceptable?

__________________
"There are a lot of pebbles on the beach, but there's a Little Rock in Arkansas."

Logan

1983 300D Turbodiesel
1976 300D Rustdiesel

It appears to me that Craftsman torque wrenches come off the same assembly line as most of the other respected brands. Just be aware that they don't carry the lifetime warranty like most Craftsman "hand" tools.

Any torque wrench is acceptable, provided you know how to convert ft.-lbs to Newton-meters. I have two Sears Craftsman torque wrenches and both are calibrated in ft.-lbs. and Newton-meters. The issue is that for most foriegn cars, MBs not excluded, the torque specifications from the manufacturers, like the dimensions and weights, are all provided in their original metric units. So, don't take a Newton-meter torque value and apply that many ft.-lbs. as you run the risk of breaking the fastener. In the other direction the fastener is not tight enough is likely to vibrate loose.

As for lubricating, yes the threads need to be lubricated but so does the bearing surface under the head of the bolt or nut as any galling, dirt or just a high coefficient of friction there as you tighten the fastener and begin to stretch it, will result in a rapid increase in torque load per degree of rotation. What you want is a predictable range of fastener stretch vs. applied torque and you don't get that without lubrication, and cleaning the threads before assembling.

Jim

__________________
Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)