Carbon Build- Up in Intake - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

justinperkins · #1 01-23-2007, 12:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ForcedInduction

When the EGR is disabled by plugging the vacuum line, the exhaust soot will not be able to enter the intake to create the build-up.

Unless the EGR is so choked up that it's stuck open.

#2 01-23-2007, 12:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by justinperkins

Unless the EGR is so choked up that it's stuck open.

Which can be remedied by removing the EGR an visually inspecting/cleaning it or installing a block off plate under the valve.

gmaltz · #3 01-23-2007, 12:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by justinperkins

Unless the EGR is so choked up that it's stuck open.

I'm going to pull the EGR valve and clean it out to make sure it is closed and cap off the vacuum line as well. Just to be sure I have the right part- it is right next to my greasy turbin outlet in my pix right?

Also I am going to try venting the valve cover vent tube into a catch can and see if that helps with engine idle. (no more oil going into intake).

gsxr · #4 01-23-2007, 02:02 PM

I wouldn't bother with venting the PCV into a catch bottle. I did that, all I got was oil smell in the passenger compartment when sitting at a stop light. Clean the intake if you want, and forget about it. Nothing is wrong there.

About the idle/shaking issue, you have a number of things to check. The ELR (electronic idle control) may not be working properly, could be delivery valve seals, bad motor mounts (very common), injectors, etc, etc. But unless the EGR is hanging open (not likely, but possible) that has nothing to do with it.

As a new 1987 300D/TD owner, I'd recommend reading this article, which has some assorted background information on that particular model:
http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/articles/124.1x3_buying_tips.txt

Also check out this link for photos of the EGR disabling process.

gmaltz · #5 01-23-2007, 05:23 PM

Thanks Dave for the good info! The pix are very informative. I took out the EGR and cleaned it and tested the valve with a vacuum gage and it works normaly, but I will still bypass it. I capped of the vacuum line to it and just reinstalled it for now with its line capped also. I will make a block off plate later like yours later. Did you use any seallant on the manifold "bottle cap" plug or just bent the tabs and installed the clamp over it?

Nice Job!

gsxr · #6 01-23-2007, 05:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gmaltz

Did you use any sealant on the manifold "bottle cap" plug or just bent the tabs and installed the clamp over it?

There's a forum member here who sells a complete kit, with the two plates, bolts, gasket, and a tube of sealant. It's about $30 and well worth the money. You do need to use some high-temp RTV on the round exhaust manifold port, but it works well. Bend the tabs first, clean everything very well, then apply sealant, and clamp it in place. Allow 24 hours drying time if possible.

Brian Carlton · #7 01-23-2007, 06:02 PM

I provide a kit to eliminate the valve completely for a cleaner look underhood.

At the moment, the kits from the 2006 run are exhausted. I'll be making another run in the spring when folks are ready to work again..........

gmaltz · #8 01-23-2007, 06:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

I provide a kit to eliminate the valve completely for a cleaner look underhood.

At the moment, the kits from the 2006 run are exhausted. I'll be making another run in the spring when folks are ready to work again..........

Brian - Thanks, and count me in when you start making them again.

I,m only 20 min. from you in Center Moriches!

justinperkins · #9 01-23-2007, 05:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsxr

I wouldn't bother with venting the PCV into a catch bottle. I did that, all I got was oil smell in the passenger compartment when sitting at a stop light. Clean the intake if you want, and forget about it. Nothing is wrong there.

About the idle/shaking issue, you have a number of things to check. The ELR (electronic idle control) may not be working properly, could be delivery valve seals, bad motor mounts (very common), injectors, etc, etc. But unless the EGR is hanging open (not likely, but possible) that has nothing to do with it.

As a new 1987 300D/TD owner, I'd recommend reading this article, which has some assorted background information on that particular model:
http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/articles/124.1x3_buying_tips.txt

Also check out this link for photos of the EGR disabling process.

Great link (buying tips), thanks so much!