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  #1  
Old 01-22-2007, 05:27 PM
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Carbon Build- Up in Intake

Hi Diesel Guys - I have sort of a problem with my 87 300 Turbo D- 124 running a Frybrid Veggie system. She runs great on veggie once warmed up, however very shakey and rough on diesel until warmed up.

Also I now have a bad oil leak and I am still trying to find out where. I ordered a new valve cover gasket but I think it may be leaking around the turbo or the oil line to the turbo - not sure yet.

I removed the intake plenumn and saw lots of greasy carbon inside the tube but it looked real clean looking down into the turbo. See pix. Thanks for any help in advance.
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59 Ranchero
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84 928 Euro S
87 300D Turbo-Frybrid "WVO, Tastes Great - Less Filling"
90 750 IL
91 560 SEL
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  #2  
Old 01-22-2007, 05:34 PM
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Sorry - trying to uplaod pix but the forum limit is only 65kb and my pix are 149kb- how can I resize them to fit or is there another way. I have no problem on other forums uploading pix.
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84 928 Euro S
87 300D Turbo-Frybrid "WVO, Tastes Great - Less Filling"
90 750 IL
91 560 SEL
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  #3  
Old 01-22-2007, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by gmaltz View Post
Sorry - trying to uplaod pix but the forum limit is only 65kb and my pix are 149kb- how can I resize them to fit or is there another way. I have no problem on other forums uploading pix.
upload to another location and then link to them here.
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Old 01-22-2007, 09:58 PM
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Lets see if these pix come up.
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59 Ranchero
83 928 Euro S
84 928 Euro S
87 300D Turbo-Frybrid "WVO, Tastes Great - Less Filling"
90 750 IL
91 560 SEL
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  #5  
Old 01-22-2007, 05:34 PM
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pix?

typical EGR clogging?
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  #6  
Old 01-22-2007, 10:06 PM
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Very typical and very difficult to clean. Cleaning doesn't lead to a worthwhile improvement in performance or mpg, most say.

Sixto
93 300SD 3.0
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  #7  
Old 01-22-2007, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by sixto View Post
Very typical and very difficult to clean. Cleaning doesn't lead to a worthwhile improvement in performance or mpg, most say.

Sixto
93 300SD 3.0
OK, this dirty oily build up (which is soft and not too hard yet) is probably not the cause of my start up shake/knock? I'll change out the EGR valve, valve cover gasket and clean the plenumn and see if there is any improvement.

The oil leak can be very frustrating to track down.
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83 928 Euro S
84 928 Euro S
87 300D Turbo-Frybrid "WVO, Tastes Great - Less Filling"
90 750 IL
91 560 SEL
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  #8  
Old 01-22-2007, 10:37 PM
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Don't change the EGR valve, just plug it's vacuum line.
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  #9  
Old 01-22-2007, 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by ForcedInduction View Post
Don't change the EGR valve, just plug it's vacuum line.
Do you mean, just leave it in there disconnected after the vacuum line is plugged?

Will the valve then be Open or Closed?

This could be the cause of the oil being forced out of the engine. A clogged EGR?
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59 Ranchero
83 928 Euro S
84 928 Euro S
87 300D Turbo-Frybrid "WVO, Tastes Great - Less Filling"
90 750 IL
91 560 SEL
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  #10  
Old 01-22-2007, 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by gmaltz View Post
Do you mean, just leave it in there disconnected after the vacuum line is plugged?

Will the valve then be Open or Closed?

This could be the cause of the oil being forced out of the engine. A clogged EGR?
Buy some vacuum line and cut a small piece, plug it with a screw or something and slip that short blocked line onto the EGR. Also plug the end that you've now left disconnected.

A badly blocked EGR could cause performance problems and oil spewage. Happened to me on my TDI.
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  #11  
Old 01-22-2007, 11:06 PM
ForcedInduction
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Originally Posted by gmaltz View Post
Do you mean, just leave it in there disconnected after the vacuum line is plugged?

Will the valve then be Open or Closed?

This could be the cause of the oil being forced out of the engine. A clogged EGR?
1: Yes. Plug the vacuum line with a BB or other object that will seal the hole and leave the EGR in place.

2: The EGR will stay closed all the time.

3: EGR has no effect on the oil leak but it will stop the build-up in the intake.

The leak will probably be one of the oil feed or return gaskets for the turbo.

For the rough running, do a search here for "Diesel Purge". It's the cheapest first step.
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  #12  
Old 01-24-2007, 04:49 PM
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The canister below the EGR valve is the wastegate actuator. Don't remove or disable that!

Sixto
93 300SD 3.0
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  #13  
Old 01-24-2007, 05:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
The canister below the EGR valve is the wastegate actuator. Don't remove or disable that!
Yes - the thingy with the rod, that goes to the hot side of the turbo, is the wastegate actuator - leave that connected (it is a pressure hose, not vacuum). The item below, part of the compressor housing, with a vacuum tube going to it... that is the ARV, and should be disconnected and plugged.

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  #14  
Old 01-24-2007, 06:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
Yes - the thingy with the rod, that goes to the hot side of the turbo, is the wastegate actuator - leave that connected (it is a pressure hose, not vacuum). The item below, part of the compressor housing, with a vacuum tube going to it... that is the ARV, and should be disconnected and plugged.

OK, now I get it. Gonna leave the wastegate alone and disconnect and plug the ARV. I just thought they were one and the same. Duh!

That one vacuum line threw me. I want to take out all those vauum "Limph Nodes" and the one line was buggin me. Didn't know what it was for. Now I do.

You guys are the GREATEST!


Here is a pix of my next surgical removal provided my tools are still sharp!

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Gerry

59 Ranchero
83 928 Euro S
84 928 Euro S
87 300D Turbo-Frybrid "WVO, Tastes Great - Less Filling"
90 750 IL
91 560 SEL
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  #15  
Old 01-24-2007, 04:53 PM
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smoke gets in your eyes
 
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The ARV is the device below the wastegate in the second pic. You can't remove it because the compressor housing will be wide open. You might open it to make sure the plunger is fully seated, then put the spring on the other side of the plunger to make sure it stays seated. Or drift a 13mm(?) freeze plug into the port.

Sixto
93 300SD 3.0
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