Which can be remedied by removing the EGR an visually inspecting/cleaning it or installing a block off plate under the valve.

I'm going to pull the EGR valve and clean it out to make sure it is closed and cap off the vacuum line as well. Just to be sure I have the right part- it is right next to my greasy turbin outlet in my pix right?

Also I am going to try venting the valve cover vent tube into a catch can and see if that helps with engine idle. (no more oil going into intake).

__________________
Gerry

59 Ranchero
83 928 Euro S
84 928 Euro S
87 300D Turbo-Frybrid "WVO, Tastes Great - Less Filling"
90 750 IL
91 560 SEL

I wouldn't bother with venting the PCV into a catch bottle. I did that, all I got was oil smell in the passenger compartment when sitting at a stop light. Clean the intake if you want, and forget about it. Nothing is wrong there.

About the idle/shaking issue, you have a number of things to check. The ELR (electronic idle control) may not be working properly, could be delivery valve seals, bad motor mounts (very common), injectors, etc, etc. But unless the EGR is hanging open (not likely, but possible) that has nothing to do with it.

As a new 1987 300D/TD owner, I'd recommend reading this article, which has some assorted background information on that particular model:
http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/articles/124.1x3_buying_tips.txt

Also check out this link for photos of the EGR disabling process.

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Thanks Dave for the good info! The pix are very informative. I took out the EGR and cleaned it and tested the valve with a vacuum gage and it works normaly, but I will still bypass it. I capped of the vacuum line to it and just reinstalled it for now with its line capped also. I will make a block off plate later like yours later. Did you use any seallant on the manifold "bottle cap" plug or just bent the tabs and installed the clamp over it?

Nice Job!

__________________
Gerry

59 Ranchero
83 928 Euro S
84 928 Euro S
87 300D Turbo-Frybrid "WVO, Tastes Great - Less Filling"
90 750 IL
91 560 SEL

Great link (buying tips), thanks so much!

__________________
-justin

1987 300TD, 1987 300TD
2008 R32, 2000 Passat Wagon

There's a forum member here who sells a complete kit, with the two plates, bolts, gasket, and a tube of sealant. It's about $30 and well worth the money. You do need to use some high-temp RTV on the round exhaust manifold port, but it works well. Bend the tabs first, clean everything very well, then apply sealant, and clamp it in place. Allow 24 hours drying time if possible.

I provide a kit to eliminate the valve completely for a cleaner look underhood.

At the moment, the kits from the 2006 run are exhausted. I'll be making another run in the spring when folks are ready to work again..........

Brian - Thanks, and count me in when you start making them again.

I,m only 20 min. from you in Center Moriches!

__________________
Gerry

59 Ranchero
83 928 Euro S
84 928 Euro S
87 300D Turbo-Frybrid "WVO, Tastes Great - Less Filling"
90 750 IL
91 560 SEL

OK, I have now cleaned my intake crossover, EGR mounting base and EGR (which will be removed again when blocking kit arrives). EGR is capped off as well as vacuum line. I have searched the forum and it seems to be a good idea to also remove the smog modules and lines too (for testing purporses, of course). Now what about this round module just below the EGR, which I think is the Air Reciculation Valve? It has a connecting rod to the turbo and a vacuum line to it also. I am ready to remove it also. Or is that a bad Idea?

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p136/gmaltz/DSC03292.jpg

Here is the ARC I think
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p136/gmaltz/DSC03297.jpg


Here is the rod connected to it that goes to the hot side of the turbo.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p136/gmaltz/DSC03296.jpg

__________________
Gerry

59 Ranchero
83 928 Euro S
84 928 Euro S
87 300D Turbo-Frybrid "WVO, Tastes Great - Less Filling"
90 750 IL
91 560 SEL

The canister below the EGR valve is the wastegate actuator. Don't remove or disable that!

Sixto
93 300SD 3.0

The ARV is the device below the wastegate in the second pic. You can't remove it because the compressor housing will be wide open. You might open it to make sure the plunger is fully seated, then put the spring on the other side of the plunger to make sure it stays seated. Or drift a 13mm(?) freeze plug into the port.

Sixto
93 300SD 3.0

Yes - the thingy with the rod, that goes to the hot side of the turbo, is the wastegate actuator - leave that connected (it is a pressure hose, not vacuum). The item below, part of the compressor housing, with a vacuum tube going to it... that is the ARV, and should be disconnected and plugged.

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OK, now I get it. Gonna leave the wastegate alone and disconnect and plug the ARV. I just thought they were one and the same. Duh!

That one vacuum line threw me. I want to take out all those vauum "Limph Nodes" and the one line was buggin me. Didn't know what it was for. Now I do.

You guys are the GREATEST!


Here is a pix of my next surgical removal provided my tools are still sharp!

__________________
Gerry

59 Ranchero
83 928 Euro S
84 928 Euro S
87 300D Turbo-Frybrid "WVO, Tastes Great - Less Filling"
90 750 IL
91 560 SEL