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  #1  
Old 01-25-2007, 02:33 AM
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Cool Rack damper bolt

I have a 1985 300d that I need to replace the rack damper bolt (idle stabalizer), any one out there that is familiar with the adjustment procedure on this puppy?

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  #2  
Old 01-25-2007, 09:23 AM
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Start with the bolt loosened so it is not engaged. Engine warmed up and idling with transmission in "Drive." The turn the bolt in until you get a smooth idle, then stop. Going too far will cause a "hard start" condition. Tighten the lock nut and you're done.

Last edited by tangofox007; 01-25-2007 at 05:33 PM.
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  #3  
Old 01-25-2007, 02:13 PM
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Yep, except I did mine in park. Locknut 14mm adjusting bolt 12mm, I used stubby ratching wrenches.
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  #4  
Old 01-25-2007, 03:36 PM
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I thought you were sopposed to start with it screwed in all the way then back out untill the idle gets bad then screw it in a turn or two.
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  #5  
Old 01-25-2007, 07:20 PM
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Where is the bolt located? I'm pretty sure I need to adjust mine too. My 85 300SD starts hard in below freezing temps and the glow plug circuit has been checked out and tests fine.
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  #6  
Old 01-25-2007, 09:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don DS View Post
Where is the bolt located? I'm pretty sure I need to adjust mine too. My 85 300SD starts hard in below freezing temps and the glow plug circuit has been checked out and tests fine.
Very back of the injection pump. Checked you IP timing lately?
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  #7  
Old 01-26-2007, 06:18 PM
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When first installing new bolt, reuse "o" ring, insert new bolt by hand until you feel it make contact, tighten lock nut. Adjust by backing out till smooth, do so only if idle flucuates, hard starting may be unrelated.
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  #8  
Old 01-26-2007, 07:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toomany MBZ View Post
When first installing new bolt, reuse "o" ring, insert new bolt by hand until you feel it make contact, tighten lock nut. Adjust by backing out till smooth, do so only if idle flucuates, hard starting may be unrelated.

i put my new $29 gold one in today. i was able to bottom it out by hand. i played with it in and out until i got it as far out as i could with a smooth idle in reverse. is there any problems with having the damper too far in?

BTW. it made a world of difference, idling now very smooth at 700 in gear. I still had the silver bolt and it was in all the way to the lock nut. much less spring force on the silver bolt
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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)
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  #9  
Old 01-26-2007, 07:57 PM
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Now the $60 question is where did you get a $30 pin?
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  #10  
Old 01-26-2007, 08:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgkast View Post
Now the $60 question is where did you get a $30 pin?
$30 pin link:


http://***************/search/product.aspx?sid=rxfjchauridy4vn5it1kqouo&partnumber=1420560014
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  #11  
Old 01-26-2007, 08:15 PM
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Doesn't appear to be $30 bucks......
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  #12  
Old 01-26-2007, 10:39 PM
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Doesn't appear to be $30 bucks......
They were just a couple of weeks ago!!!
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  #13  
Old 01-27-2007, 01:14 AM
ForcedInduction
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I got a relatively new gold one in the parts yard for $1+tax out the door.
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  #14  
Old 01-27-2007, 01:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyL View Post
Doesn't appear to be $30 bucks......
Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
They were just a couple of weeks ago!!!
Wow, I posted this link here like 7 days ago and it was $29.23. They most of had a run on them or someone from that company found out they were selling them way below market value.

Replacing Rack dampener pin
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  #15  
Old 01-27-2007, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lutzTD View Post
i put my new $29 gold one in today. i was able to bottom it out by hand. i played with it in and out until i got it as far out as i could with a smooth idle in reverse. is there any problems with having the damper too far in?

BTW. it made a world of difference, idling now very smooth at 700 in gear. I still had the silver bolt and it was in all the way to the lock nut. much less spring force on the silver bolt

i found out this morning there is a problem with having the damper bolt too far in. my engine started fine but it will not idle cold. i had to hold the accellerator or it would drop the idle down to 200 then stall. i turned it out intil no pressure then turned it back in until it touched and gave it a 1/8 turn to snug then locked it. still idles fine hot but now it idles good cold too.

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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)
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