And this "very experience" mechanic didn't know what to do next?

From all indications, you have already run out of adjustment on the IP. That means that you need to remove the IP, align the index markings, then reinstall in the middle of the slots. And do yourself a big favor and replace the IP gasket while you are at it.

What purpose would that serve?

__________________
When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.

purpose is strictly "DIY begginer" related...


.

__________________
w126 500SEC gen II euro, powered by OM617 turbo stolen from 84 300SD 2.88 diff,EGR blinded
next wish/project: w114 coupe OM603 powered

If you remove the IP, and reinstall it with the splines re-engaged one or two teeth differently, any marks previously made on the outside of the IP/engine interface will be useless.

__________________
.
1st MBz: 1982 300SD
2nd MBz: 1987 300SDL
3rd MBz: 1995 S420
4th MBz: 1987 190DT
5th MBz: 1984 300SD w/1983 300DT engine
6th MBz: 1999 C230k I'm 3rd owner, got it w/57,235 miles.
and manages Mom's 2007 R320 CDI

From pics I've seen, IP splines cannot be one or 2 teeth off. It is keyed, only goes on one way.

__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 167,870 July 2025
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Very interesting.

So the only thing that is important is the cam lobes are in the correct position, to make sure the timing is on the intake and not the exhaust stroke.

Getting the pointer to 24, or 26 degrees doesn't really matter, except to set the system so a visual check of the cam lobes is possible.

Also, I do not need to remove the IP, because with keying, it is impossible to engage the splines incorrectly, except for intake/exhaust error. In which case, my engine would not run at all.


So that brings us back to my original problem. What do I need to do to make the engine run correctly?

__________________
.
1st MBz: 1982 300SD
2nd MBz: 1987 300SDL
3rd MBz: 1995 S420
4th MBz: 1987 190DT
5th MBz: 1984 300SD w/1983 300DT engine
6th MBz: 1999 C230k I'm 3rd owner, got it w/57,235 miles.
and manages Mom's 2007 R320 CDI

You should take a look at the FSM on IP R&R with pics and step by step instructions. I don't have a working link to it anymore. It seems Thatchemathias.com with the online FSM went off line recently. That was a useful resource.

__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 167,870 July 2025
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Your level of misunderstanding is "off the charts." And you willingness to listen to someone who saw a picture is beyond bewildering.

If you have run out of adustment, you have to remove and reindex the IP. No amount of wishful thinking is going to change that. And it absolutely matters that the crankshaft is positioned at the correct angle (and on the correct stroke) when the IP is reinstalled.

__________________
When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.

So the pic that I saw, i.e. that the IP splines is keyed, is not correct?

__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 167,870 July 2025
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

I am guessing that you saw a picture of the splined IP shaft with a gap in the splines. The gap is for aligning the shaft with a reference mark; it doesn't "key" the shaft in the way that you seem to think. For sure, the IP can be installed on the engine with the shaft in as many positions as there are splines.

__________________
When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.

Ah, thanks for correcting me. Sorry, my mistake. I shouldn't have spoken without detailed knowledge.

__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 167,870 July 2025
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

[QUOTE=tangofox007;3317458]And this "very experience" mechanic didn't know what to do next?



From all indications, you have already run out of adjustment on the IP. That means that you need to remove the IP, align the index markings, then reinstall in the middle of the slots. And do yourself a big favor and replace the IP gasket while you are at it.



What purpose would that serve?[/QUOTE]

I know; I have been telling Peoplep planning to do the Drip Timing to mark scribe a mark a across the Fuel Injection Pump Flange to the Block so that if People cannot mannage to get the Drip Timing correct at least they can return it to where they started and be no worse off they they were when they bean to Method.

However, that mark has nothing to do with anything if someone removes the Fuel Injection Pump.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

The aluminum plate has:
Bosch 011
345 11655
PES 5M W55 / 320RS 16
0 403 245 020
ER0005
6170704.101

__________________
.
1st MBz: 1982 300SD
2nd MBz: 1987 300SDL
3rd MBz: 1995 S420
4th MBz: 1987 190DT
5th MBz: 1984 300SD w/1983 300DT engine
6th MBz: 1999 C230k I'm 3rd owner, got it w/57,235 miles.
and manages Mom's 2007 R320 CDI

what we call the Fuel Injection Pump is actually the Fuel Injection Pump, a Governor and a Fuel Supply/Lift Pump.
Each one has an Aluminum Plate on it with information.

On My Fuel Injection Pump the Plate for the Fuel Injection Pump is right under or near the Banjo where the Fuel enters the Fuel Injection Pump Housing; at the Top Front of the Fuel Injection Pump Housing.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

there is a picture (#6) that shows a mark....... where is that? front of IP or rear of IP orrr?

I have an engine supposedly rebuilt, Prior to installing it fell over (was on ground.. fell to one side). This made me fear it may have moved pump and pushed it out of time.

Got it installed.... engine runs with massive smoke... (its been a year got not garage... weather got bad.... had to stop. Now weather good so getting back to it.... Im outside under tarp) seem to recall it was Grey smoke.... further reading now says that is IP timing possibly sooooooo could be my fear came true.

Anyway... reading few places let me back to this great page and this ancient thread. Mayyyyyyybe person marked the pump location as discussed .... thus my question... Where would this mark be. up front or in back. hard as hell to see anything in there.

is there any other generic place to measure that would clue me in to.... "ohhh that pump is way off as setting" like how far in inches from part X of pump to Y (block?) would be redflag its way the freak off.

__________________
"Know other lessons I need to learn? TELL me. Tired of learning'em the hard way".

Glow Plug Wait: [i} Time of silence in homage Rudolph Diesel. Longer you own a diesel. more honor you give". [/i]

Life; SNAFU Situation Normal All Fouled Up, & FUBAR: Fouled Up Beyond All Repair

-Now: Snafued Jeep TJ w/OM617 2Be daily driver & building SS M1079 w/Ambo boxed /live in Adv. Truck, Diesel KLR conversion
-Sold 62 UNIMOG Camper w/617 Turbo, 85 300SD

there is mention a longggggg 13mm wrench needed for one bolt. would a ratcheting one be better? Another page mentions a bent one. Would a standard curvy type help (if long enough) be better? how long is long enough..

S curve wrenches metric https://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-metric-s-type-wrench-set-99699.html

__________________
"Know other lessons I need to learn? TELL me. Tired of learning'em the hard way".

Glow Plug Wait: [i} Time of silence in homage Rudolph Diesel. Longer you own a diesel. more honor you give". [/i]

Life; SNAFU Situation Normal All Fouled Up, & FUBAR: Fouled Up Beyond All Repair

-Now: Snafued Jeep TJ w/OM617 2Be daily driver & building SS M1079 w/Ambo boxed /live in Adv. Truck, Diesel KLR conversion
-Sold 62 UNIMOG Camper w/617 Turbo, 85 300SD