Thank you all very much for the wonderful insights... which, as it often happens, have generated a few more questions:

Which side is best kept up, in order to achieve the best draining possible?

Since I bought the car two years ago, I have learned that if I put in 7 quarts of oil, the engine will "spit out" a couple of quarts, in just a few days, from where the oil return pipe connects at the top of the engine. So I have been filling it up with 5 quarts and then topping it off to just above bottom mark on dipstick. I still get a few oil drops on the garage floor from the oil spurting out at that juncture, but it is livable. Is this common for a '79 240D, or does my car have some problem there? I remember posting a similar question here a couple of years ago and someone replied that it is best to keep the oil level just above the bottom mark in a '79 240D.

Here my car is again different from the ones of those who have replied about not needing the ramps for an oil change. My car evidently sits lower than yours. I have tried to get under it without placing anything under the wheels, and it is so close to my face and torso that it is impossible to do any work that way. So I am now questioning whether there is some problem with the shocks... perhaps they need recharging or something?

Does that mean that using ramps to raise the front part of the car would make this problem even worse, that is, preventing even more old oil from being drained? Would it be preferable to place 2x8s (or higher wood support) under all four tires, as Sixto suggested in this thread, so as to raise the car evenly from the ground, or even better raise the back more than the front so as to allow for better draining? This is the main question I would like to get answered here, so as to know if it makes sense at all to use a couple of ramps to do maintenance routines under the car (engine oil, transmission fluid and differential fluid change)...

I totally appreciate your suggestions... thanks again for your precious input,

Rino

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1979 240D, W123, 105K miles, stick, white w/ tan interior.

My 210 sits just too low to get a pan under, but if I jack it up about two inches, there is enough room to reach under with a long extension to loosen the plug, push a pan under and remove the plug entirely. Then I lower the jack to where the car is hitting the drain pan. I have to raise it up after draining so I can put the plug back. There's just enough room to reach under the car without putting my body or arm at risk.

If I put the front on ramps, the engine is tilted enough that over a quart of oil remains in the back of the pan.

My 210 is missing the belly pan which makes this possible.

If you choose to jack it up versus using ramps, MAKE SURE to use jack stands. Do not rely on the jack alone when you are working under the car. Every year you read about someone who gets crushed or loses body parts when the car falls on them. Years ago I was working on a car just using the jack since I was not going to be underneath. I went to loosen a stubborn bolt and sure enough the jack slipped. No damage done to self or car but had I been underneath it would have been another story. I ALWAYS use jack stands since then. Even on ramps, wheel chocks are also a good idea.

Using jack stands would have the same end-result as using ramps on my car, leaving an unacceptable quantity of oil in the pan. The drain plug for my car is on the side of the pan, approximately in the center. The car must be level while draining.

The important part here is that it is not necessary to get under the car to change the oil.

Which ever side the drain plug is not on. If memory serves the drain plugs is on the driver's side.

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

OK guys, thanks again!
I'll try doing the oil change without raising the car from the floor; if not able, I'll try with 2x8s under all wheels (to keep it even).
I'm ordering the ramps anyway to be used for general inspections under the car.

Rino

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1979 240D, W123, 105K miles, stick, white w/ tan interior.

You do not need to get UNDER the car to remove and replace the drain plug. If you lay down in front of the car and reach under, you can reach the drain plug easily regardless of the location.

The Rhino ramps I purchased are just OK, not great. Even though they have rubber feet on the bottom, as I drive the car up onto the ramps, they slide away from the car. This happens on both my MB and the wife's Explorer.

I had to borrow my buddies Bosch hammer drill, drop in some concrete threaded inserts to secure some angle iron to the concrete floor. The ramps now rest against the angle iron and don't move. Just another small anoyance of home garage repair.

I don't use the ramps for changing the oil on my 300D. There is plenty of room.

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84 300DT Puke Yellow. Totalled after 438,000
84 300DT Orient Red. 169,000 (actual mileage may vary)
2002 Explorer EB (wife's)

I just chock rear wheels and jack car up(drivers side) an inch or so so my hand can fit over drain pan and under plug. Anyone remember Brit actor Edward Fox from "The Day of the Jackel"? He worked underneath that Alpha Romeo just using a jack. Scary but interesting scene.

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1981 240d
Newport,RI

I ended up building my own ramps, each made of two pieces of hard wood 2x8, 2 feet long, stacked and nailed together. They worked wonderfully over the past few days when I did my (first!) engine oil, transmission fluid and differential fluid changes! They are very reliable and undestructible... I returned the Rhino ramps... mine are so much better, and the vehicle inclination I get with 4" ramps is ideal for draining/refilling those fluids.

Rino

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1979 240D, W123, 105K miles, stick, white w/ tan interior.

One more word about ramps, and supporting a car.
DO NOT under any circumstances use concrete boocks to support a car. They fail catostrophetically--all at once. Ususally wood, or steel will anounce thier impending demise; not so concrete blocks. Do Not use them, ever.

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1982 300SD " Wotan" ..On the road as of Jan 8, 2007 with Historic Tags

What do you mean front? Mine's on the rear of the pan. Did they change that between 79 and 81?

- Peter.

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2021 Chevrolet Spark
Formerly...
2000 GMC Sonoma
1981 240D 4spd stick. 347000 miles. Deceased Feb 14 2021
2002 Kia Rio. Worst crap on four wheels
1981 240D 4spd stick. 389000 miles.
1984 123 200
1979 116 280S
1972 Cadillac Sedan DeVille
1971 108 280S

Both my 82 and 83 are on the rear of the pan.

Go top-sider. It's much easier and better.