Yes, of course you are correct. I keep forgetting how excruciatingly painful it must be for some people to reach underneath an engine to turn just one bolt.

I don't know if you're being for real or sarcastic (hopefully the latter). Talk to someone with back problems (usually elderly or injured in some sort of accident) and ask them what method they'd prefer.

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'81 MB 300SD, '82 MB 300D Turbo (sold/RIP), '04 Lincoln Town Car Ultimate

Sooner or later every car falls apart, ours does it later!
-German Narrator in a MB Promotion Film about the then brand new W123.

If I had back problems which kept me from reaching under the car, I probably also wouldn't appreciate pumping the Top-Sider. Of course, electric models are available.

Amen! Unless you have some sort of medical reason the Topsider will take more time than simply draining on a 123 chassis. You can reach the drain plug from the front of the car without using ramps, etc. This has got to be one of the easiest oil changes to do. RT

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When all else fails, vote from the rooftops!
84' Mercedes Benz 300D Anthracite/black, 171K
03' Volkswagen Jetta TDI blue/black, 93K
93' Chevrolet C2500HD ExCab 6.5TD, Two-tone blue, 252K

I get more oil out of my 617 with the extractor than by gravity. I have proven this by draining until the drips stopped and then inserting the suction tube and pulling several ounces (big deal ) out.

I have also evacuated and then pulled the drain plug to only have nothing come out.

So, I will not be pulling my drain plug again any time soon.


Tim

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2009 VW TDI Jetta Sportwagon 172k miles (rear-ended harder than Elton John on 8/4/13. Total loss)

1991 Volvo 240 142k miles (T-boned by a stop sign runner. Total loss)

it would be cool to use an extractor, but Ill stick with the old school way of doing it, plus, while im down there i can visually inspect things like the belts, tranny pan, etc for current or future problems.

Also, how do u make sure that when u use an extractor, that the suction hose doesnt go to far into the pan and curve up and get above the surface of the oil?

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1983 300DT 284k miles. :-) "The Benzo"
1998 Mustang GT Custom 4.9 L engine.
1997 Dodge ram Pickup 5.9L

Well heck, no need for me to post. Joe covered it all in his post.

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2009 VW TDI Jetta Sportwagon 172k miles (rear-ended harder than Elton John on 8/4/13. Total loss)

1991 Volvo 240 142k miles (T-boned by a stop sign runner. Total loss)

Not a problem. The tube is stiff...you can feel it hit bottom.

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2009 VW TDI Jetta Sportwagon 172k miles (rear-ended harder than Elton John on 8/4/13. Total loss)

1991 Volvo 240 142k miles (T-boned by a stop sign runner. Total loss)

I am 82 years old---can't get down when I am up and can't get up when
I am down. I you live that long you will understand.

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xafman
1984 300TD 182,000 mi FOR SALE
1972 Chev Longhorn PU--restored
1994 Buick Roadmaster 7200 mi (actual)

I vote for underneath. I usually look around to see how everything is doing. I've spotted several hose clamps leaking or radiators starting to seep, belts going bad, along with numerous other maladies of geriatric vehicles.

Chuck

I stick with getting under the car thats on ramps and use gravity.. It makes me feel like a man.... Plus I need to change my oil pan and install the new one.

I have both a topsider as well as a extractor from motive products. The topsider isn't large enough to get everything out in one shot, and that is a pain. The motive products extractor is quite nice and has enough capacity. Their brake bleeder really works well. On a W124 there isn't much to see underneath unless you pull the noise encapsulation panel - so there is no real benefit to getting underneath to change the oil. I used the topsider to drain (most of) my transmission. That worked well and reduced the mess underneath when pulling plugs and the pan.

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=-=-=-=-=
1987 300TD 231,000
#22, afterglow, plastic fan, euro lights, alternator upgrade, cluster housing update

Can you drain the engine oil in a W124 without removing either or both of the belly pans? I always assumed they had to come off -- but the only time I've changed the oil in our new-to-us '87 300DT, the covers were already off due to previous work so I plead ignorance.

I have a "Cheapie Joe" oil drain pump that I bought years ago (local surplus store, $20, connects to 12 Volt battery with clips, has suck hose and drain hose) for things that are hard to drain -- lawn mowers, shredders, my big gen-set, etc. It could be really handy for the W124. I'll probably try it for the next oil change.

That said, the people who advocate "Get out and get under" do have a point -- oil changes are good opportunities to look at the underside. For those of us who cannot or choose not to do so, the little pumps are a nice option.

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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970

Neither method is effective in removing the oil from the oil cooler, unless somebody has found a way?

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http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7271/7...144c3fc1dc.jpg

Don't remove the oil from the oil cooler. If MB thought it was important to do so, they would have included a drain plug on the oil cooler like on the older models. I don't think many of the high mileage contenders on this board have made it this far because the oil cooler was drained.

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'81 MB 300SD, '82 MB 300D Turbo (sold/RIP), '04 Lincoln Town Car Ultimate

Sooner or later every car falls apart, ours does it later!
-German Narrator in a MB Promotion Film about the then brand new W123.