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  #16  
Old 02-21-2007, 08:54 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 75
This is my vacuum control valve with the domed cover pryed off. I was unable to release the locknut. I was able to turn it with a 1/4 wrench a little to the right and the idle decreased. Took it for a test drive and noticed it helped the flares. Its not flaring where it used too. Then when I got home I took the key out of the ignition and it wouldn't shut off!! put the dome back on drove it around a little. Now its shutting off properly.

How do you release the locknut to adjust the screw properly? everytime I turned the locknut with the wrench the screw turned with it!!

Brian, is that brown line that goes up to the tee the one your referring too to check the vacuum?
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  #17  
Old 02-21-2007, 09:20 PM
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Location: Blue Point, NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chosenberg View Post
This is my vacuum control valve with the domed cover pryed off. I was unable to release the locknut. I was able to turn it with a 1/4 wrench a little to the right and the idle decreased. Took it for a test drive and noticed it helped the flares. Its not flaring where it used too. Then when I got home I took the key out of the ignition and it wouldn't shut off!! put the dome back on drove it around a little. Now its shutting off properly.

How do you release the locknut to adjust the screw properly? everytime I turned the locknut with the wrench the screw turned with it!!

Brian, is that brown line that goes up to the tee the one your referring too to check the vacuum?
The configuration is slightly different on that valve. But, the intent is the same.

Unfortunately, you ignored my procedure and started turning things without any gauge to determine the outcome. The valves are quite sensitive and you'll damage them if you adjust too far.

The T is right in the photo, directly above the VCV. You own the Mityvac and it's required to properly set the VCV.

Why did you not utilize it?

Furthermore, it's not possible for you to affect the idle when making such an adjustment. The engine should be shutoff during the procedure. That's the purpose of the Mityvac.
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  #18  
Old 02-21-2007, 10:02 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2006
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Your right. Sometimes I am impatient and cut corners. Something I need to work on. I will first test with the mityvac tomorrow before making any adjustments.. But like I said in the earlier post. How do properly remove the lock nut to adjust the screw?
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  #19  
Old 02-21-2007, 10:49 PM
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Blue Point, NY
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Originally Posted by chosenberg View Post
Your right. Sometimes I am impatient and cut corners. Something I need to work on. I will first test with the mityvac tomorrow before making any adjustments.. But like I said in the earlier post. How do properly remove the lock nut to adjust the screw?
Will the screw turn with the locknut attached? If so, then don't worry about the locknut. You'll see if it will have the desired effect when you pump up the Mityvac and turn the screw slightly.

The problem is that we don't know were you started from...........
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  #20  
Old 02-22-2007, 01:45 PM
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Does anybody have a vacuum diagram? I can't check for vacuum because I dont even have a line on top of the vacuum control valve going to the transmission vacuum modulator. The previous owner messed up all the lines, and I have to rerout them.
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  #21  
Old 02-22-2007, 01:49 PM
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Location: Blue Point, NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chosenberg View Post
Does anybody have a vacuum diagram? I can't check for vacuum because I dont even have a line on top of the vacuum control valve going to the transmission vacuum modulator. The previous owner messed up all the lines, and I have to rerout them.
Do you have a T above the VCV?

It appears that you do.

The far end of the T has a Tecalan line that goes to the transmission modulator.

The near end of the T is the supply vac.

The bull goes to the VCV.

You previously mentioned that the flaring was reduced when you adjusted the valve. This tells me that the lines are properly connected.
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