ok looks like you cant time the pump cause the pump aint pumping.
larry perkins lou ky

Well...
Took off the injector fittings, cleaned the shaft the plunger moves up and down in, made sure the shafts were all the way down (the top of the plunger was flush of the shaft when the plunger was at the top of it's stroke). Reinstalled valves and spring and put back in the vehicle, rotate the crank by hand. Get fuel out of #4 injector, but none out of #1, #2, #3.


Took of the fitting, spring and valve from #1, turn crank watch plunger move up and down, reinstall spring and valve, no fuel when I turn the crank.

So... new injection pump?

-Flunchg

Thanks to Larry, I've determined that the pump is not pumping on #1, #2, #3. Is there anything to do besides try to find another injection pump?

-Forest

With the parts out of the #1 element...Looking down into the open barrel....Can you observe fuel filling the barrel with the plunger in the down position while pumping hand pump...?

__________________
1978 Yellow 300D (The Mustard Toad)
1980 Blue 240D (The Iron Toad)
1989 Grey Mitsu.4WD Mighty Max Pickup (Needs a Diesel transplant bad)

(Open the pod bay doors HAL)

I think so, but I also see fuel coming up around the barrel.

I checked rotation of the plunger and the plunger stroke and they both look right.

Here's some more data.

I rotate the crank so that the #1 injector plunger was in it's top position. I put the fitting back on, and tightened it up, without the valve and spring.

Pumping the hand pump I get a steady stream of fuel, no matter where the load lever is, including the off position.

However, when I put the valve and spring back in, I get no fuel no matter whether I pump the hand pump or rotate the crank.

This leads me to believe that the helix on the plunger is somehow not appropriately lined up.

Hmm... the rotation of the plunger looks right. So I'm not sure how to proceed.

-Forest

Well, I got the injection pump to pump from all 4 fittings now, but I still can't get #1 injector to stop dripping.

Can I time the pump of another injector? If so, anybody know what the timing should be for #3 and #4. I imagine that they should be 180 degrees apart. So, the injector order is 1,3,4,2.

So if 1 is 24btdc, 3, should be 156 atdc, 4 should 24btdc, and 2 should be 156btdc.

Does this reasoning make sense?

-Forest

seems to me u cant lose much if you try to free up the plungers,set the crank pully 180 deg from tdc(exhause stroke)take a tool like a small nail,punch(use your imagation)tap with small hammer to see if you can knock the plunger down,keep the tool in place and rotate the engine,if you see the tool rise during the compression stroke then the plunger is getting loose,repeat till it will go back down by its self(its under spring tension), i use a strond solvent to do this with,but pb blaster could work also.
i have a old 1966 200d that sat for 14 years and i got all 4 injector plunger to work again like what i am telling you,diesel looked like maple syrup and that thing runs today with the same ip.
let us know.
larry perkins

As far as I can tell the plungers are free. And they all produce a powerful squirt when I pump the motor over with the starter. Put I still can't get drip tube to stop on the #1 injector. If I try the drip tube on the #4 injector at 24btdc with the lobes for the #4 cylinder pointing up, I can get the flow to stop.

Any problem timing from there?

-Flunchg

Thanks for everyone's help. I timed it off of injector #4, and bolted everything together and it runs like a dream.

Special thanks to Mr. Perkins and Yellit.

-Forest

Good job!....It would be interesting to see if the #1 will time correctly after it has run a while.....Thanks for the thanks!

__________________
1978 Yellow 300D (The Mustard Toad)
1980 Blue 240D (The Iron Toad)
1989 Grey Mitsu.4WD Mighty Max Pickup (Needs a Diesel transplant bad)

(Open the pod bay doors HAL)