A whole bunch of stuff is coming in... A lot of replacements to do... - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

rino · #1 03-09-2007, 06:15 AM

Besides the sway bar links, muffler hangers and brake pad components coming in today which hopefully will take care of the noise problems I've been experiencing, discussed here: HELP!!! Something has finally broken down!
I am getting primary and secondary fuel filters, an air filter, the Lubro Moly Diesel Hi Test kit, even a box of nitrile gloves (latex ones were easily damaged by oils and solvents when working under the hood...)

So, I plan to be done with all these chores this weekend. The question is: is there a preferred order to do these tasks? For instance, is it better to use the Lubro Moly before or after changing the fuel filters? I also plan to do a valve clearance adjustment very soon (what is the measuring tool that I need for doing it called?)... So, what sequence do you suggest I do these tasks? And of course, any general suggestions you feel like contributing on this topic are very much appreciated...

Rino

RUN-EM · #2 03-09-2007, 07:48 AM

As far as driveability and fuel economy that I experienced on a 83 300SD:

1.valve adjustment....easier starting, better idle, better pick-up
2.cleaned banjo bolt...allows boost to properly adjust ALDA (fueling)...better acceleration, more power noticed in passing situations
3.bought boost regulator on e-bay-$15.00--cause it is too difficult to adjust the old spring pop-off valve on the turbo...better power (uhh, boost gauge checked pre-installation showed only 6 lbs boost....factory is about 13-14 lbs & I settled for 12 lbs boost). Reset ALDA for more fuel (about 3/4th turn richer).
4.Did purge to knock out chunks of carbon from cylinders

, got bunches (musta been a coal bin in there somewhere--and this was after an Italian tune-up that consisted of hundreds of miles of 85-95 mph.
5.Change air filter...little improvement.

All this netted about a 6 second drop in 0-60 mph time. Well worth it in merging into Dallas traffic (most noticed change was clean banjo bolt).

SPARKY THE DIESEL is currently undergoing a make-over. Have pulled most of interior for SEM vinyl paint redo (pink-amino is being changed back to palamino). Pool noodles to the seats at this time also. Repainting is next after a minor bit of rust removal. Have planned H & R springs installation...need to keep up any and all momentium. An getting better wheels and tires will help that also. Wanna try rebuilt injectors also. Will propane fumigate the darn thing in an effort to get a little better fuel mileage (based on cost per mile--the only fair way to determine validity --with baseing fuel costs to a standard to account for $$ priceing variations).

Ultimate performance improvement....a new BlueTech engine, tranny, and computer (chipped)....prolly never happen, but I have hopes!

Regards

Run-em
1983 300SD- aka- SPARKY THE DIESEL

winmutt · #3 03-09-2007, 07:54 AM

RE gloves: the double layer nitrile/latex that HF is all the rage, I have yet to find a superior glove. Unless I am working in real tight places with pokey objects one or both of the gloves will usually last more than one use.

junqueyardjim · #4 03-09-2007, 11:07 AM

A feeler gage or gauge. It is available in either Imperial or Metric. It is a very low cost tool available where tools or auto parts are sold. You of course need the wrenches. Valve adjust wrenches are the best but regular open end wrenches will do.

toomany MBZ · #5 03-09-2007, 07:05 PM

The LM thing should be done before changing fuel filters, that's a purge, right? Even if not, said order. As to previous post, feeler gauges, I use SAE equivilents, yet need to use a couple. Haynes should give you specs. Did you get a new cam cover gasket? Not necessary, yet not too expensive. Other items, no paticular order. I use Nitrile gloves often, buy 'em by the case on the internet. Stay away from Don The Glove, terrible fit. Will not purchase from "him" again. Hope this helps.

rino · #6 03-09-2007, 08:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by junqueyardjim

A feeler gage or gauge. It is available in either Imperial or Metric. It is a very low cost tool available where tools or auto parts are sold. You of course need the wrenches. Valve adjust wrenches are the best but regular open end wrenches will do.

Thanks!

Rino

rino · #7 03-09-2007, 09:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toomany MBZ

The LM thing should be done before changing fuel filters, that's a purge, right? Even if not, said order.

Oh man, I meant to order the LM Diesel Purge but screwed up and got the Diesel Hi-Test instead... I wanted to do the thing where you put the purge in a jar connected to fuel line through an 1/4" hose, with the fuel return hose also pouring into the jar...
Oh well... At this point what should I do? (I can't use the Hi-Test for that, can I?) Order the purge (this time doing it right) and postpone the fuel filter replacements until right AFTER the purge... or just change the two fuel filters without the purge? What bugs me is that, having screwed up on the order, if I just put in a new order for the purge alone I'll be charged $10 PLUS shipping... What would you do in my place at this point?

Quote:

As to previous post, feeler gauges, I use SAE equivilents, yet need to use a couple. Haynes should give you specs. Did you get a new cam cover gasket?

No, I didn't know I needed one... That's why I asked for suggestions as to what I needed to buy in the other thread... Yet no one suggested that I get either the feeler gauges or the cam cover gasket...

Quote:

Not necessary, yet not too expensive. Other items, no paticular order. I use Nitrile gloves often, buy 'em by the case on the internet. Stay away from Don The Glove, terrible fit. Will not purchase from "him" again. Hope this helps.

I got a box of 100... Sanitex large #6394... How many in a case?
Thanks, very helpful...

Rino

toomany MBZ · #8 03-10-2007, 07:16 PM

You may not need a new gasket, they are designed to be reused, yet if any obvious damage, replace. Be sure to clean everything well when reassembling. Diesel Hi test, I think, is to just dump in tank. Might be just fine, don't know. If you do a purge, THEN replace filters, as you may have some, high tech term comming up, gunk, roaming around that you want to capture in current filters and not contaminate new ones. You might want to order a filter or two extra, you're gonna do this more than once, right? to beef up order. Perhaps a PS filter, gaskets, such as oil cap, misc "o" rings. Oil filter housing cap has a couple of rings 0159979448, oil dipstick seal, one 0069972645, master cylinder gasket, two 0002950050, I think, front crank seal, one 0119972247, and metal seal ring, one 6150310051. Make sure all these will fit a 240. Cigar hose, pricey, on the 82 I use just a fuel line. Various vac lines. Other items, maybe, check their site. Glove case 1000. Not fimiliar with Sanitex.

vstech · #9 03-10-2007, 07:55 PM

it's probably not required, but I like to replace the filters, run the DP then change the filters again. I figure the DP is going to flush gunk through the dirty filters, this might dilute the chemical in the DP. so I go with cheapo new fuel filters, run the DP then put on top of the line filters after that. makes me feel better.
John

rino · #10 03-10-2007, 11:06 PM

Thanks for the advice, guys.

Since I've opted for ordering more stuff (in order to get free shipping and also save time by buying in advance stuff that am likely to use later), I would appreciate some advice about what other important items I am bound to need...
I intend to do all the routine maintenance tasks outlined in the Haynes... I got very motivated... after seeing the tremendous improvement in performance after the maintenance done so far... The car most definitely has a lot of potential!

So far I've done: oil change, trans fluid change, diff fluid change, air filter, brake fluid change, have installed rear brake pads, all muffler hangers, and new sway bar links (which have brought to an end all noise issues I was experiencing).
In my last order I also got for future use: 3 oil filters, 3 primary and secondary fuel filters, the LM Hi-Test...

Now, along with the LM DP and the gasket and feeler gage for the valve job (what else is needed for the valve job? Will I be all right without the special wrenches, using just open-end ones?), what else important am I very likely to need that I am not thinking about right now?

Thanks for your suggestions... very much appreciated...

Rino

rino · #11 03-10-2007, 11:09 PM

By the way, the nitrile Sanitex are just amazing in their durability... I abused a pair of them for hours without them breaking apart... the only reason I later got rid of them is that they got very dirty... this stuff is incredible...

Rino