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#1
03-08-2007, 06:00 PM
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240D Injection pump timing, drip tube won't stop
I got a injection pump from what was told was a running engine. Wired tied the fuel rail open. Lined up the missing spline with the hash mark on the body of the pump, and slid it into the timing case with the engine at 24 btdc and the #1 lobes pointed up. Removed the valve from #1 injection pump fitting, replaced spring and screwed on the drip tube. Prime the fuel, pump the hand pump, and I get a steady flow from the drip tube.
But for the life of me I can't get the drip tube to stop flowing a steady stream of fuel. I can't get the flow to stop no matter how much I rotate the pump, and can't even get it to stop when I slowly rotate the crank 720 degrees. There is two degrees or so of stretch in the timing chain. There are two bolts holding the pump on, but just handtight. Any ideas? -Flunchg 
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#2
03-08-2007, 07:47 PM
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Did you remove the delivery valve along with the spring?
Look here and see if you did anything different: http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM615OM616InjPumpTiming Scott
__________________
Scott 1982 Mercedes 240D, 4 speed, 275,000 1988 Porsche 944 Turbo S (70,000) 1987 Porsche 911 Coupe 109,000 (sold) 1998 Mercedes E300 TurboDiesel 147,000 (sold) 1985 Mercedes 300D 227,000 (totaled by inattentive driver with no insurance!) 1997 Mercedes E300 Diesel 236,000 (sold) 1995 Ducati 900SS (sold) 1987 VW Jetta GLI 157,000 (sold) 1986 Camaro 125,000 (sold - P.O.S.) 1977 Corvette L82 125,000 (sold) 1965 Pontiac GTO 15,000 restored (sold)
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#3
03-08-2007, 07:47 PM
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Did you disconnect the brown vacuum line to the shut down switch?
__________________
 1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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#5
03-08-2007, 08:10 PM
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try this
reinstall the spring and valve, turn the engine and see if you get any fuel that will spurt out of the pump,if it dont deliver fluid then the plunger is most likely stuck in the pump.
tell us why you are working on the ip in the first place. larry perkins lou ky
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#6
03-08-2007, 08:15 PM
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One thing is that my injection pump has the red style oil fill, not the vented metal kind shown on the page Steve referred to. However, it is a Green Label pump and is identical to the one that I pulled off the vehicle when it got here.
-Forest
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#7
03-08-2007, 08:23 PM
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Thanks Larry,
I'll try that. A friend of ours got some cheap diesel in 55 gallon drums and left them outside, and the fuel quickly became contaminated with water. He eventually brought it to us because it was smoking white like the batmobile. We replaced the rusted out tank, flushed the lines, checked the injectors, the injection pressure, adjusted the timing, replaced valve stem seals, and on and on, and nothing was working. I went to replace the diaphragm on the back of the pump and dropped a circlip into the chamber. I went to fish it out with a magnet and came back with a handful of ball bearings. The ball bearing of the shaft had disintegrated, and we finally understood the problem. So, new injection pump. -Forest
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#10
03-08-2007, 08:53 PM
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Could be perhaps the timing wheel is not turning the pump? The fuel entrance valve to the pump cylinder is at the lower end in the bore. When the pump piston is pushed up it totally obstructs the fuel flow causing no output. I have heard occasional refference to timing wheel failure. Perhaps it was only that it was unable to increase the timing. I do not know.
Other than this if the piston was being pushed up it would reduce flow to some extent. Even if so worn as to not provide enough fuel compression to open the injector. I guess if there were also no seal at the top of the cylinder to the internal space in the pump the fuel would continue to flow. Unfortunatly I know little about the construction of these pumps. I might try to see if I could stop the flow of another cylinder element. If not perhaps it is either the timing wheel or a broken crankshaft in the pump right at the front. Another senario is the cams cannot activate the pump pistons if the crankshaft is displaced in there for some reason. Keep us posted in what you find. I can easily understand the piston being stuck in the higher end of the bore. But if so there would be no flow either I think. Stuck at the bottom of the bore would mean the cam on the crank would jam and the pump not turn also I think. Or something break. As I have mentioned I have not had one of these pumps apart yet and know little. A little knowledge is a dangerous thing as well. A note to Yellit by private message might help as he has taken a pump apart in the last while. He also would be more than happy to answer any questions I think as he too is very interested in these pumps. I also think you are doing nothing wrong with the installation and attempt to time the pump. Last edited by barry123400; 03-08-2007 at 09:05 PM.
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#11
03-08-2007, 09:07 PM
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frank
the fuel has to come out the injestor pump wheather u turn it by hand or with the starter motor, if the pump is a good one.
i set them up on the engine on a stand and do this function. leave the line off the ip and watch for a bubble to form and over flow as you turn from 24deg btdc, if you crank with the starter it will normally shoot up about a foot. larry perkins lou ky
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#12
03-08-2007, 09:09 PM
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ps
you will never see any fuel exit the ip as you pump the mechanical primer,that just fills the ip.
larry
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#14
03-09-2007, 12:38 PM
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Turning the crank by hand, I see fuel at 2 and 4, but no 1 and 3.
I took the pump off, removed the inspection plate behind the lift pump and turned the pump shaft by hand. Everything seems to be in order. Thoughts? -Flunchg
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