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  #1  
Old 03-21-2007, 11:35 PM
TheDon's Avatar
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driving in stealth mode

I get in my car and start it up, turn the lights on and I'm like.. why isnt the gear selector lit up.. or the spedo, or the switches...

I drove home with my cellphone's backlight illuminating the guages...

I wonder if the radio going out the other day has anything to do with it..It happened during the day so the interior lights wouldnt have been noticed..

Today I went to work with the wires for the radio and left some undone( and covered).. Doubt that would have anything to do.. The fuses look fine..

I need to fix this before friday night

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  #2  
Old 03-21-2007, 11:41 PM
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Twist your dimmer switch. The potentiometer is probably going. It's a common issue.
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  #3  
Old 03-22-2007, 12:31 AM
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I had a similiar problem with my dimmer switch being intermittent. I eventually cut the two wires going to the dimmer potentiometer and soldered them together. This way I could bask in a whopping 0.000001 lumens coming from the dash all the time.

TimK
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  #4  
Old 03-22-2007, 07:24 AM
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The dimmer dims the gear selector and switch lights too??
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  #5  
Old 03-22-2007, 08:25 AM
Craig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pizzachef View Post
The dimmer dims the gear selector and switch lights too??
On mine it does.
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  #6  
Old 03-22-2007, 09:52 AM
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85 300D 4spd+tow+h4
 
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It dims all the int lights. No one has ever found a reason not to hard wire it.
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  #7  
Old 03-22-2007, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winmutt View Post
It dims all the int lights. No one has ever found a reason not to hard wire it.
except of course for the ability to "stealth mode" on demand...
John
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  #8  
Old 03-22-2007, 02:32 PM
TheDon's Avatar
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whats funny is I checked the fuses and the fuses were the incorrect ones(red).. So I put white ones in where they belonged... Still nothing..

But when I use the rear defrost and push the button it lights up.. nothing else does.. wtf...

Time to pull the clusert and bypass it
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  #9  
Old 03-22-2007, 11:55 PM
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The potentiometer is very suseptable to corrosion and breakage coincident with extended presence of moisture in the passenger compartment. Plus they are just prone to break, even if your window seals do not leak...the solder connections are sooo tiny.
However they are also fixable and easily replaceable if you had rather R&R with an OEM new part. Patience is the key here, not a speedy repair but probably plan to take a couple hours or three...relax, listen to some tunes, replace the bulbs while you're inside...

There are several threads thru search about Potentiometer repair and work-around fixes...
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  #10  
Old 03-23-2007, 06:32 AM
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85 300D 4spd+tow+h4
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
except of course for the ability to "stealth mode" on demand...
John
With all that chrome I don't think he will be running dark anytime soon. LOL
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  #11  
Old 03-23-2007, 06:52 AM
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That term reminded me of "true" stealth mode when I was a teenager and would come home after curfew. I'd drive around the block so I was uphill from my house. I'd kill the engine, the lights, the radio, anything that would make noise other than the key in the ignition so I could turn the wheel. Then I'd coast downhill into the driveway.
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  #12  
Old 03-23-2007, 09:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDon View Post
whats funny is I checked the fuses and the fuses were the incorrect ones(red).. So I put white ones in where they belonged... Still nothing..

But when I use the rear defrost and push the button it lights up.. nothing else does.. wtf...

Time to pull the clusert and bypass it
I'd check your solder connections on the board, while you have the cluster pulled. I've repaired 3 W123's with bad solder connections on the left cluster, usually causing the lights to go out in the center console, shifter, and instrument panel. Look closely for a broken solder connection, and repair it with a piece of wire and solder, if you find any. If it looks fine, your rheostat is probably to blame. A three hour job? Nah. Pull the cluster, put a new one in, and stick the cluster back into the hole. If you don't have a spare I can see it taking 2 1/2 hours, depending on your soldering skills.

As for the defroster light? There's a light inside of the switch (along with the standard fiber-optic light that goes to it. When it's off, the fiber optics light it up, along with all the other switches. When it's on, it kicks on the switches' internal light which is much brighter.
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  #13  
Old 03-23-2007, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suburbanviking View Post
That term reminded me of "true" stealth mode when I was a teenager and would come home after curfew. I'd drive around the block so I was uphill from my house. I'd kill the engine, the lights, the radio, anything that would make noise other than the key in the ignition so I could turn the wheel. Then I'd coast downhill into the driveway.
First of all... the lights are in the list of things to kill so as to be quieter?!?

I can relate to that one too... never had to sneak in the driveway (diesel, good luck...) but I use the dimmer stealth mode whenever my mom's riding with me... keeps her from staring at the speedo the whole time we're driving
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  #14  
Old 03-23-2007, 02:33 PM
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cant sneak in with a diesel.. and I live on top of a hill...


I fixed it... I had mentioned my radio stopped working so perhaps one of the exposed wires grouned and did something and blew the fuse for the interior lights...

I pulled the wires and capped them and no more blown fuses...

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