I just found out this morning, but it might have been that way for a looonnng time, as that sound from the rear wheels has been going on for a while now.

This morning, while investigating that noise and also trying to establish if I had a faulty bearing, I took off the rear right caliper, but the rotor was stuck to the hub as if it were bolted there... I tried playing around with the parking brake's adjusting starwheel, in order to free the rotor from the drum (I assumed that might be what was keeping the rotor stuck), but to no avail... the rotor does not move a single millimeter...

What am I to do at this point?

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1979 240D, W123, 105K miles, stick, white w/ tan interior.

Really big hammer.

This is common, and hammer is the solution. Good to turn it and hit a several places.

This is, of course, the end of this rotor.

Put some antiseize on the hub when installing the new one.

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Kent Christensen
Albuquerque
'07 GL320CDI, '10 CL550. '01 Porsche Boxster
Two BMW motorcycles

Wait a sec... the rotor is good... Do I need to destroy it? I was rather thinking of freeing it

First of all, let me understand what you think the situation is. What do you suppose is keeping the rotor from coming out?

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1979 240D, W123, 105K miles, stick, white w/ tan interior.

A little heat will usually break the binding rust free on most rotor designs. Even a propane torch can help sometimes. Also some people miss the little locating screw that prevents the rotor turning when changing a tire for instance.
Not all rotors incorporate them. I usually fire up my ox/acec torch for heat when required. I live in a rustbelt though where parts generally do not come off too easy.

I'll try pounding on it with the rubber hammer tomorrow morning (I have a big one - never had a chance to use it so far...). If not work, I'll have to get some means of heating it up. I do have the screw preventing the rotor turning correctly situated on all rotors... You are lucky to have an ox/acec torch available... I just have a garage spot to park my car in and all the tools I possess are in the trunk...

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1979 240D, W123, 105K miles, stick, white w/ tan interior.

There are some nice posts (do a search) about either using a large two jaw puller or two C clamps with 2x4's.

Thanks so much for pointing it out!

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1979 240D, W123, 105K miles, stick, white w/ tan interior.

Are these rotors the ones that are a disk break for stopping and a drum break for the parking break. if so i would look to free up the parking break side, i think thoes sometimes get a groove work into them and then get stuck in there.

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-Trevor

OBK #12
1980 300SD 333,XXX miles - Totaled
1986 Mazda RX-7 212,XXX miles - impounded and auctioned off
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited 33,000- SEGR, Provent, Fumoto

Yes I also remember the days when I owned very few tools. Another approach that might work for you with no heat if it becomes required. Place a 2x4 between the other wheels rim and your stuck rotor. Jack up one side of the car or both. The springs decompressing might give adaquate force to pop the rotor. The axels pivot inward as the body raises. Perhaps worth a shot. I have done and tried a lot of unorthodox approaches over the years to get by. Or the old expression there are more ways to skin a cat seem to apply. I like animals myself so do not take my meaning too literally.

First make sure the parking brake is not grabbing it. Put the car in nuetral and make sure you can spin it. Also what car are we talking about? 1986-91 W126's have a screw holding it on, make sure you remove that as well.

Once thats done heat up the hat of the rotor with a torch, then nail it with a hammer, it will break free.

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2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Well Rino I was going to put in my two cents but sounds like Barry Hatteras and the gang have got it pretty well covered. I will however tell my story and put in my two cents anyway.

I was helping a friend with a 03 C230 Komp. gasser (booo) in my garage a few weeks ago for him to pass inspection. We did all four rotors and his does have the T-Screw (starred screw) that holds the rotor in place while the wheel is off. Getting that thing out took a few shots of Penetrant and a good hit of the Propane torch. Worked like a charm- the heat more than the PBblaster because his were held with locktite and when the stuff gets hot it sorta melts letting the bolt go. After that, just like the guys said, I heated up the rotor around where it meets the axel hub and then gave it a few good whacks with a rubber mallet. HOWEVER, when I got to the rear, I was having trouble at first with the 1st rear rotor that I did and it was the parking break mechanism holding it on from the inside. Had me a bit perplexed for a bit.
Be safe when you jack up the car. Make sure you've got it on stands and that its chocked well since there isnt as much keeping you from going forward when the parking break is off and you're out of gear if thats the way you go about it.

So moral of the story is to hit that sucker with some heat and it will come off alot easer. Also make sure you have the right size and type T-wrench to get the bolt out otherwise you aint goin nowhere as they say.

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Dieter- '84 300SD.Rusty,mismatched colors. All heart.
350k. Fine Mercedes Engineering

Fritz - 1981 240D 4 Spd

-'90 Isuzu Trooper.5spd. 2.6L4cyl.
Aerodynamics of a brick and gorgeous.

Precisely those rotors...

Sure, but in order to do that I first need to extract the rotor, which is currently stuck.
I tried playing with the parking brake adjusting starwheel quite a bit this morning, see if I could release the brake shoe (drum) to no avail...

Also, the fact that the rotor is completely stuck as if bolted (it doesn't move at all over the hub) made me think it might be prevalently a rust issue.

By the way, the wheels do rotate and I'm able to drive the car, even though when I rotate both rear wheels by hand, with the brake pads off, there is much resistance, as if the brake was partially applied (or at least so I thought).

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1979 240D, W123, 105K miles, stick, white w/ tan interior.

I don't quite understand what you mean by "Place a 2x4 between the other wheels rim and your stuck rotor..." Could you explain it better to me?

I like that proverbial expression... and I believe it is what being a DIYer's all about... laughing at conventional ways... and finding your own... as it best suits you at the time. In a sense, just like (computer) hackers do...

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1979 240D, W123, 105K miles, stick, white w/ tan interior.

I did precisely that this morning, with the brake pads off on both sides of the rear end. It felt exactly as if the brake was grabbing it, but strangely so, there was more resistance on the rear left side (where the rotor comes out freely) than on the rear right side, where the rotor is stuck.

As per my signature, it is a 1979 240D, 123 chassis. The rotor came out freely on the left side, so I have no doubts as to the soundness of the procedure I used.

Unfortunately, I don't have a torch (I will buy something like that eventually if need be) and was trying to save the rotor (I have a big rubber hammer that I intend to use tomorrow, though)...

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1979 240D, W123, 105K miles, stick, white w/ tan interior.

I much appreciate it...

Mine doesn't have anything like that. It's held there only by the caliper alone, once the wheel is off... there is nothing bolting it to the hub.

As I said, I'm not able to wiggle mine at all. If it were the e-brake, wouldn't it wiggle at least a little? It is stuck firmly as if bolted to the hub... That's why I thought it was likely a rust issue.

I'm putting it on stands... with chokes under the front wheels (sort of - but believe me, securely blocked).

Again, there's no bolt to get out... the rotor is supposed to freely come out once the wheel and the caliper are out of the way.

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1979 240D, W123, 105K miles, stick, white w/ tan interior.