I just finished a complete rebuild of my W210's front suspension, front brake job and replaced front shocks. A complete parts list with TORQUE values and parts pricing attached as a PDF file. Might save some time for anyone contemplating similar work on their W210 diesel. I will also be happy to answer any questions on this job as the folks on this forum have been such a HUGE help to me.
Ken

P.S. Not included in my price list is a wheel alignment which is required after this sort of job.

Attached Files

FrontSuspensionPartListandTorqueValues.pdf (10.2 KB, 1271 views)

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2014 E250 Bluetec 4-Matic
2014 GL350 Bluetec 4-Matic
1996 Chevy Tahoe 4 x 4
2009 ML350 (sold)
2005 SLK350 (sold)
1999 E300 Turbodiesel (sold)
1998 ML320 (sold)
1991 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel (sold)

Lots of good info there.

What was the major complaint that made you tackle this project and which part of the job do you believe gave you the biggest bang for your buck?

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

Nice PDF!


One thing to add, from reading other threads and my AllData info, don't completely tighten the lower control arm bolts until the vehicle is on all 4's...

Also, you didn't add the part numbers for the front control arm camber bolts... Just got a bunch of stuff from the stealer yesterday... Here are the part numbers to add w/ pricing...

210-330-00-18 $70.16

Currently working on my front end suspension as well...

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#dieselFLEET
---------------
'97 E300
'99 E300

The problems I was working to solve that caused me to do the job were the famous 55MPH shimmy/vibration that many others have also mentioned in this forum AND the clunk sound on uneven/rough road surfaces. I believe the sway bar links (cheap and easy to replace) fixed the clunk and the lower control arm bushing replacement addressed the shimmy/vibration. The sway bar bushings may have also helped with this. These "conclusions" are inferred from other posts. Since I replaced everything in one shot I can't be sure.
I also needed new front brakes & rotors as well as shocks. Made sense (to me) to also do the tie rod ends and upper control arms (with upper ball joints) and lower ball joints as long as all was apart.
Car has 172k miles. Rides like new now.

SPECIAL NOTE---- PDF FILE ATTACHED TO ORIGINAL POST NOTES THAT CERTAIN CONNECTIONS SHOULD ONLY BE TIGHTENED WITH WEIGHT OF CAR RESTING ON WHEELS. THIS IS LISTED IN COLUMN FURTHEST TO THE RIGHT AND NOTED AT BOTTOM.

Ken

__________________
2014 E250 Bluetec 4-Matic
2014 GL350 Bluetec 4-Matic
1996 Chevy Tahoe 4 x 4
2009 ML350 (sold)
2005 SLK350 (sold)
1999 E300 Turbodiesel (sold)
1998 ML320 (sold)
1991 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel (sold)

Excellent and comprensive write up.

I am having front end shakes when appling moderate braking. My rotors & pads have been replaced. Formerly the sway bar bushings, lower ball joints, and shocks have been replaced. I currently have 288K on the car.

I will ask without ever changing the control arm bushings, Why replace the complete control arms and not just the bushings ? Is the price for the control arm near the bushings, making it not worth the hassle ??

Thanks,

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Gary
Experience is something you get, Just after you needed it....
'99 E300 295K, '83 300D 220K, '75 240D 185K sold
'80 MCI Bus Conv DD 6V92TA, w/4 cyl. Kubota diesel GenSet 12.5KW

This it great! I never saw it the first time around. I have my lowering springs and offset bolts, I just would like to find some decent performance bushings before I tear it all apart.

Someone suggested making bushings out of UHMW?

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-Evan


Benz Fleet:
1968 UNIMOG 404.114
1998 E300
2008 E63


Non-Benz Fleet:
1992 Aerostar
1993 MR2
2000 F250

My 1999 E300 Turbodiesel now has 322k miles. I have done the complete front suspension rebuild twice. The first time I bought the Lemfoerder bushing kits for the lower control arms and had a shop press out the old bushings and press in the new ones. The second time I bought new lower control arms with the bushings pre-installed. Total cost was similar in both methods and much more time efficient to buy the control arms with bushings.
If I knew the car would keep going like it has, I would have bought the special tool to remove and install the bushings the first time I did this job back in 2007 or so.

__________________
2014 E250 Bluetec 4-Matic
2014 GL350 Bluetec 4-Matic
1996 Chevy Tahoe 4 x 4
2009 ML350 (sold)
2005 SLK350 (sold)
1999 E300 Turbodiesel (sold)
1998 ML320 (sold)
1991 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel (sold)

Do you think a press and some custom jigs would be able to R&R the bushinigs or should I just get the tool?

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-Evan


Benz Fleet:
1968 UNIMOG 404.114
1998 E300
2008 E63


Non-Benz Fleet:
1992 Aerostar
1993 MR2
2000 F250

If you have access to a press and are creative with the ancillary tooling I am sure you can get the old bushings out and new ones installed. It is important to note the old bushing orientation so the new ones go in the same way.

__________________
2014 E250 Bluetec 4-Matic
2014 GL350 Bluetec 4-Matic
1996 Chevy Tahoe 4 x 4
2009 ML350 (sold)
2005 SLK350 (sold)
1999 E300 Turbodiesel (sold)
1998 ML320 (sold)
1991 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel (sold)