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#1
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124 upshifts way too soon. Tranny experts help!
I have a new to me 124 with 217K on the clock that upshifts way too soon. The 1-2 shift is @5mph then at @22mph it shifts 2-3-4, so I am in 4th at 23mph. Accelerator pedal position makes no difference in shift points, floored or slow acceleration it shifts the same. No records from PO, but was a one owner car. Here is what I have done so far (with a great deal of advice from GSXR)
Fluid/filter change with Dexron III Vacuum appears ok, car shuts off instantly, don't know how to check vac. to tranny (but I have a mityvac). All I know so far is there is 9in. of vac. going into the top center of the vacuum amplifier at idle. Have adjusted the bowden cable its full adjustment range and it has had no effect on the shift points. Cable does not appear to be broken. When detached from linkage there is resistance and it returns to the same spot each time it is pulled. Replaced kickdown switch with known good one with no effect. When shifted manually it operates much better (shifter bushings are worn) it will accelerate to redline in each gear, shifts are smooth with no clunks or flaring. ALDA has been adjusted so performance 0-20 is acceptable. The car is driveable just slow. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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![]() Muleears '07 E320 Bluetec 133K my DD '04 Jaguar XJ8 VDP, 34K '10 Hyundai Accent 60K Grocery Getter '02 VW Golf soon to be on the road again '97 E300 Diesel Son's DD '61 VERY tolerant wife Hampton Roads, VA USA Gone but not forgotten: '67 250S 95K '86 300SDL '87 300D Turbo, 364K! R.I.P. '98 E300 Turbodiesel, 213K '02 S420, 164K '01 Prius 138K |
#2
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9" is a bit low - should be around 13 if I remember correctly.
I would check the vacuum first, and then adjust the vacuum valve on the side of the ip. To check vacuum, pull the line that goes to the vac modulator on the tranny off the vacuum valve on the IP and see if it holds vacuum. Mine wouldn't because the modulator cap was split and spilling vacuum. First you have to get the vacuum at the correct level to the tranny, then you can start troubleshooting the rest of it. see http://pauldrayton.com/uploadfiles/merc/Service/W124/Index/602_603/07MechElec.html for testing procedures. Use the mityvac to trace where your vacuum problem is and then fix that.
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1983 240D Silver/Blue "Sadie", unknown miles. 100k miles on WVO single tank, converted to 2 tank about 10k miles ago, FPHE, Injector Heaters, Aux Fuel pump. Alcohol/Water injection. Frantz oil bypass filter 1992 300D 2.5 Turbo Green/Tan "Jade" 267K miles Stock. 1992 300D 2.5 tan/tan "Rocky" on 2 tank WVO. Pressure actuated Turbo "rat's nest" surgery completed. 197k miles |
#3
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I tested the vacuum pump and it is pulling 23in. of vac. I'll check the modulator to see if it holds vac. and adjust the vac. valve today. Will adjusting the vac. valve send more to the amplifier? Should I adjust till I get about 13in. at the amp? (I'm checking this at the line that goes into the top center of the amp.) I'll adjust the Bowden to somewhere near the middle until I get the vac. squared away. Thanks for the advice
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![]() Muleears '07 E320 Bluetec 133K my DD '04 Jaguar XJ8 VDP, 34K '10 Hyundai Accent 60K Grocery Getter '02 VW Golf soon to be on the road again '97 E300 Diesel Son's DD '61 VERY tolerant wife Hampton Roads, VA USA Gone but not forgotten: '67 250S 95K '86 300SDL '87 300D Turbo, 364K! R.I.P. '98 E300 Turbodiesel, 213K '02 S420, 164K '01 Prius 138K |
#4
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The vacuum will affect more the smoothness of the shift rather than where it shifts. This sounds to me more like a bowden cable problem which adjusts the shift point based on the pedal position (light acceleration or stomped to the floor). Given your description your vacuum is ok. If it wasn't you'd have violent shifting into each gear as there would be little or no modulation. It also sounds like the clutch packs are fine since you're moving into each gear smoothly and without flaring.
Yours is shifting so fast that it sounds like the cable is completely disconnected from the actuator on the valve body. Based on your statements though it sounds as though the cable is ok...could be something quirky in the valve body too. Check the fluid level again when it's hot and level. I suppose you could be getting too much pressure which would force faster shifts (and can damage the valve body). A kickdown switch failure is generally going to stop you from getting into 3rd or 4th (not your case)...so not there..best way to test this is to just pull the plug and if shifts are ok then..... BTW, what model transmission? I'm guessing a variant of the 722.3xx.
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1982 300TD 210K miles ("The Replacement" aka "The Anvil") - SOLD 1979 300SD 245K miles (never ending project) 2007 Pinarello F3:13 1995 Ducati 916 (SOLD, sniff) 1999 Ducati 900SSie (SOLD) |
#5
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Tranny model number is on the passenger side just above the pan correct?
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![]() Muleears '07 E320 Bluetec 133K my DD '04 Jaguar XJ8 VDP, 34K '10 Hyundai Accent 60K Grocery Getter '02 VW Golf soon to be on the road again '97 E300 Diesel Son's DD '61 VERY tolerant wife Hampton Roads, VA USA Gone but not forgotten: '67 250S 95K '86 300SDL '87 300D Turbo, 364K! R.I.P. '98 E300 Turbodiesel, 213K '02 S420, 164K '01 Prius 138K |
#6
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sounds about right..year of car will go a long way for starters
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1982 300TD 210K miles ("The Replacement" aka "The Anvil") - SOLD 1979 300SD 245K miles (never ending project) 2007 Pinarello F3:13 1995 Ducati 916 (SOLD, sniff) 1999 Ducati 900SSie (SOLD) |
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