This is the hose from the top of the radiator to the reservoir. Broke the nipple right off. I have a big problem with leaning on things that I shouldn't.


Has anyone had any luck with drilling this out and installing an NPT nipple or am I going to need a whole new radiator?

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1985 MB 300D/T

Fell off the WVO bandwagon when people started trying to charge $2.50 a gallon for dirty vegetable oil.

some have done it. i personally wouldn't. but you can temporarily just plug it while you find a new radiator. iirc they can be had for less than 200.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

My heavy hand cost me a new radiator on the wifes 300se

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85 300CD The FryrBird MY daily driver

I'm not sure what it does... I think if water in the radiator expands too much it makes it dump into the reservoir.. if that's correct, I would rather do a shabby job of adding the nipple and throwing some epoxy on it, then totally plugging it.

I'm sure not crazy about putting out 200 bucks for a system that otherwise is functioning up to par..

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1985 MB 300D/T

Fell off the WVO bandwagon when people started trying to charge $2.50 a gallon for dirty vegetable oil.

Plugging this will leave nowhere for expasion, your next problem could be a hose, or a heater core, ... better to leave it open than plug it.

Yes, I think that trying to thread and insert a nipple of another kind is a good interim fix until you get a replacement radiator.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

You are still going to need a strong connection at least as strong as the pressure that the radiator cap on the fill tank with stands.IMHO

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85 300CD The FryrBird MY daily driver

i forgot there is no radiator cap on the top of the radiator in that system so i withdraw my suggestion of just plugging it.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

any idea what that pressure is right off hand? The epoxy I bought is rated up to 500* but no pressure is listed.

I bought QuickSteel (steel reinforced epoxy putty) it sounded good to me....

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1985 MB 300D/T

Fell off the WVO bandwagon when people started trying to charge $2.50 a gallon for dirty vegetable oil.

The pressure is caused by the rise in temperature of the coolant, and is regulated by the cap, either on the radiator or on the coolant recovery bottle. Typically I think pressure caps are rated at between 8 and 16 PSI. You really need a well sealed system to make it function correctly. If you remove the cap and get no pressure, then when the system cools down you will also not have a vacuum to pull the coolant back into the radiator. I would certainly make an effort to re-attach that hose with epoxy. Liquid steel or JB Weld, are both excellent for the purpose. Clean the surfaces very well, then attempt to roughen the surfaces up that you are going to apply the epoxy too. I think if you work it right and carefully, you will get it done.

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Junqueyardjim
Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!

Why not take the nipple shove a hanger thru it and use that as a splint for the JB weld?

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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

That's a fantastic idea... I am just not sure if I will have enough space to actually attach the hose after the JB weld..... Do you think I should mate the two broken surfaces back together or leave a bit of a gap?

Should I do it with the radiator hot or cold?

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1985 MB 300D/T

Fell off the WVO bandwagon when people started trying to charge $2.50 a gallon for dirty vegetable oil.

SgtJohn,

Use Evans Waterless Coolant and leave the radiator cap (where ever it is) loose. This way there will be no pressure in the system.

Evans works. It boils at 375*F. I have used it in 617 and 603 engines with no problems.

P E H

Sooner or later you are going to have to replace it anyway; about $320 (OEM radiator), a couple of gallons of MB coolant, and an hour or so of work (I replace mine a couple of weeks ago due to a failed neck connection). If your temporary fix fails on the road, you'll also be paying for towing it home. If you are going to try JB Weld, it should be cold, clean, and dry, but I would only consider it a temporary solution.

I did the same thing to the wife's car while replacing the alternator three years ago. I used some JB weld putty and it has held for three years now. I wouldn't go out and spend big bucks on a new radiator when there are fixes out there that cost hardly anything and do work.

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Mike

'80 300D
'84 300D
'85 300D
'87 300D

Well, I'm done. I kept the epoxy back as far as I could to make sure there was plenty of room for the hose to slide over the nipple and get clamped... Tell me what you think.

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1985 MB 300D/T

Fell off the WVO bandwagon when people started trying to charge $2.50 a gallon for dirty vegetable oil.