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#31
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More information than you could shake a stick at about adjusting control linkages for W123s at
http://pauldrayton.com/uploadfiles/merc/Service/W123/Index/616/30AcclCtrlSys.html
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1983 240D Silver/Blue "Sadie", unknown miles. 100k miles on WVO single tank, converted to 2 tank about 10k miles ago, FPHE, Injector Heaters, Aux Fuel pump. Alcohol/Water injection. Frantz oil bypass filter 1992 300D 2.5 Turbo Green/Tan "Jade" 267K miles Stock. 1992 300D 2.5 tan/tan "Rocky" on 2 tank WVO. Pressure actuated Turbo "rat's nest" surgery completed. 197k miles |
#32
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Pulled a couple of rods off of my 82 and did a comparison.. The rod going down to the ip on the 85 (aka slow poke) was 10 mm shorter. Adjusted it, and holy cow, the car feels much quicker now. It was 36 seconds to 60, (very dangerous), now it is 17 (much better, but still slower than the 82). The rod on the rear of the ip wouldn't come close to the stop either, but it does now.
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79 MB 280 SEL Euro 133k 77 MB 450SL 154k 05 Mustang GT Vert (3) 104k 12 TSX Wagon Tech (66k) (192k) 06 Subaru Outback base (135k) 164k 16 Acura MDX (109k) 111k 18 Silverado 2500 LTZ Midnight (212) 56k 97 Ford Ranger 163k 11 RAV4 154k 01 Escape 173k 04 Honda Pilot 292k 1967 Mustang (Resto Project) 1968 Mustang (Parts Bin) 00 Ford Ranger 124k Last edited by ImBroke; 04-29-2007 at 11:18 AM. |
#33
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Stock 85 will always be slower to 60 than an 82. However I bet if both are properly tuned the 85 would be able to outrun at top speed.
When I adjusted min I turned the max fuel stop in a few turns. Will this ever give better performance or is the stop after the max fuel screw adjustment has already hit its peak?
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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg 1995 E420 Schwarz 1995 E300 Weiss #1987 300D Sturmmachine #1991 300D Nearly Perfect #1994 E320 Cabriolet #1995 E320 Touring #1985 300D Sedan OBK #42 |
#34
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just adjusted mine on my 1979 300sd, before adjusting power was good, but now everything seems better, before it would feel like i washaving to push way too hard get to the kick down button. once all was finished i had to re adjust the 10mm bolt at the fire wall linkage back to the way it was new, i believe someone messed with the rod at the injection pump before and that threw everything off. all values can be found in the cdrom manual
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1967 250 S 1967 280SE 1968 250S 1971 280 SE 1973 220 1974 280 S 1975 450 SEL 1976 220 D 1979 300SD 1983 300 SD 1985 230 TE euro 1986 280SL 1986 500 SEL euro 1986 190E 2.3 1990 300 SE 2003 C230 K 2004 C230 K 1987 560SEL 1987 300SDL now in canada 2005 C230 1998 C43 AMG Sold to DON 1993 190E 2.6 300TD Former daily driver Totaled current: R320 CDI Ram 2500 Cummins |
#35
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Slacker
interesting post, but i'm an idiot, so there's some stuff i'm not understanding:
i have A TON of slack on my '85 300TD, and want to make sure i do these adjustments right. (i'm attaching photos for reference) i can turn the rod/linkage coming out of the firewall and affect the linkage at the green arrow immediately, but the green arrow linkage moves a good 3/4" or so before affecting any movement on the rod going down to the IP (purple arrow). it doesn't seem to affect the IP rod until the little roller in the linkage on top of the valve cover (red line) reaches the stop point shown. see the second photo that shows the roller? it's got a flat spot on it, and seems to have worn away a bit of the slot up there...does all that look normal? if you turn it all the way to full throttle, it looks like there's 2mm space or so at the throttle stop down below. anyway, all this translates into having to push the accelerator pedal down what seems like a good couple inches before feelin' her go. (i've got the adjuster nut (below the green arrow) positioned in the slot all the way towards the driver's side fender as (as 'carnut' recommended), but STILL there's all this slack!) can you explain which other linkages i should be adjusting and how to do it without negatively affecting anything?
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-lee '83 300CDT (286k) former proud owner of: '85 mercedes euro 300TD '80 mercedes 300TD '77 mercedes 280e '80 mercedes euro 250 '82 mercedes euro 250 Last edited by blankenship; 07-23-2007 at 08:08 PM. |
#36
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![]() 1978 300SD 'Phil' - 1,315,853 Miles And Counting - 1, 317,885 as of 12/27/2012 - 1,333,000 as of 05/10/2013, 1,337,850 as of July 15, 2013, 1,339,000 as of August 13, 2013 100,000 miles since June 2005 Overhaul - Sold January 25th, 2014 After 1,344,246 Miles & 20 Years of Ownership ![]() |
#37
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The last time I tried to adjust mine it really messed up my shift points. Still not sure what I was doing wrong.
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1995 E420 152k 1991 300D 2.5 348116 daily driver 1992 300E 2.6 196k-work in progress(head gasket) ![]() 2002 BMW 745Li 93k |
#38
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http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7271/7...144c3fc1dc.jpg |
#39
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Careful when adjusting those rods...
I saw one 722.120 not too long ago that would had no engine braking when going downhill. The owner had a shop rebuild the tranny and still NO engine braking. They asked me to look at the car and I discovered that when going downhill, if I lightly touched the throttle, the transmission would downshift and engine braking was available. The end result was $3,000 transmission job because of mal-adjusted linkage....Robert
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![]() 1978 300SD 'Phil' - 1,315,853 Miles And Counting - 1, 317,885 as of 12/27/2012 - 1,333,000 as of 05/10/2013, 1,337,850 as of July 15, 2013, 1,339,000 as of August 13, 2013 100,000 miles since June 2005 Overhaul - Sold January 25th, 2014 After 1,344,246 Miles & 20 Years of Ownership ![]() |
#40
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My 87 has like 1/4 or more gap at the end. Cant wait to get that adjusted
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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg 1995 E420 Schwarz 1995 E300 Weiss #1987 300D Sturmmachine #1991 300D Nearly Perfect #1994 E320 Cabriolet #1995 E320 Touring #1985 300D Sedan OBK #42 |
#41
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Old thread, good info. Will try it on the gasser.
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1991 560 SEL / 185k miles 1992 750il / 17k miles - project car |
#42
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Could you reupload the picture?
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