Difference in Brake Pads? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

tobybul · #16 04-10-2007, 10:14 PM

Considering that these cars have gotten by with standard rotors for 20+ years plus considering their current age, I do not see the merit of unnecessary extra expense by going with "premium" stuff, rotors or otherwise. Products sold normally meet or exceed mfr's requirements. After that it comes down to preference and how much one wants to spend.

The stopping power of my D's and C are plenty strong with standard pads and rotors. The olders Ds do not have ABS so its either go or no go on the brakes. Stopping power is not only a function of the brake components but also the tires. One can have the best brake components but lousy or worn tires will counter the effectiveness.

My kleen Wheels have not had an adverse effect on my rotors. This set came with the 84. I know that they are advertised to be able to ventilate.

To achieve low or no brake dust conditions, it seems that one choice would be to use $$$ ceramic pads or use $60 Kleen Wheels and $ organic pads. Kleen Wheels is one time deal. my 2 cents.

t walgamuth · #17 04-10-2007, 10:19 PM

i have had cleen wheels or similar. they never seem to last very long and then they begin dragging on the backing plate and off they come!

i think they would also inhibit cooling and lead to caking of dust and perhaps an unbalanced wheel (from uneven dust).

tom w

tobybul · #18 04-10-2007, 10:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

i have had cleen wheels or similar. they never seem to last very long and then they begin dragging on the backing plate and off they come!

i think they would also inhibit cooling and lead to caking of dust and perhaps an unbalanced wheel (from uneven dust).

tom w

I have not installed Kleen Wheels as they came with the 84 but I wonder if proper installation may be a factor to their effectiveness and longevity. May be worth a chat with the Company.... might give them a shout tomorrow and ask these questions..

I'll post their response..

Hatterasguy · #19 04-10-2007, 11:56 PM

On the SDL I am running Textar pads in front, with cut ATE rotors, and in the back OE pads with crossed drilled Zimmerman.

Textar is about the same as OE, ie super soft, tons of bite, but a ton of dust. I can write on my wheels after a day and I go super easy on my brakes! If you do a lot of around town driving and don't mind putting some effort into the pedal get a ceramic pad. Or you will have to clean your wheels every day like I do, or just let the front's go natural.

I recomend the cut ATE rotors up front, because they shed water like you wouldn't beleive! No wet pedal feel. I'm going cross drilled when they wear out because my choice of wheels shows off the brakes and cross drilled just look cooler.

The brakes in my SDL are extremly good, with wider tires it takes a lot to trip the ABS. If your seat belt is not on and I nail the brakes you are going into the windsheild.

GRIESL · #20 04-12-2007, 01:09 PM

Driving down I-81 yesterday at 85 mph, the orange brake light started to flicker. Makes me think that a wire connecting the sensor to the light may need attention. Thoughts?

Hatterasguy · #21 04-12-2007, 01:14 PM

What do the front pads look like? When the light comes on their is usualy not much left. Could be a short somewhere though. I think the W210 was the first one to get rear pad sensors. The rears usualy last well over 100k miles, but should be inspected.

toomany MBZ · #22 04-12-2007, 06:54 PM

[quote=GRIESL;1476356]

Quote:

Originally Posted by toomany MBZ

Where are these sensors you speak of? I did top off the fluid--a little low, took maybe a couple of ounces.

I think you can check the low fluid light by pressing down on buttons on MC. The sensors are mounted near the pads, front only, follow the ele. leads. Usually replaced with pads, they're cheap. Referring to a video on other computer, will take some time. The male end plugs into the pad itself, the other end plugs into the caliper.