Difference in Brake Pads?

[GRIESL]

Just when you get the Benz running right, it's something else--dash light for brake pads is coming on when I depress the brake pedal. Owner's manual says it's time for new pads when that light comes on. True? If so, what kind of pads should I get? Should I do rear and front or just front. I think the manual said that the light only indicates front wear. I'd like 'em to last a decent amount of time, so I feel like some super titanium ultra hard crustacean type may be overkill. The cost difference from Phil looks like somewhere between 38 for el cheapos and up to 60 for the el grande. Any thoughts or recommendations?

[rrgrassi]

Typically, the rule of thumb is 2 sets of front pads for every set or rear. Also, the w123 rotors wear with the pads.

I tend to buy mid grade, as they seem to wear like the expensive ones. The el cheapos I have had bad luck with and do not buy any more. If you can catch good ones on sale, that is even better!

[benzforlife]

the oem pads are good because they they allow the rotors to last longer because of there softness.There not that pricey anyways.
the indicator does only show that the front pads are worn, usually the rear pads last twice as long depending on your driving habits
when your changing out the fronts, just take a look at the rears and decide from there.
-good luck

[GRIESL]

Which one of these is OEM? I am tempted to go with OEM--I was talked into some fancy schmancy pads for the diaper wagon and they squealed and grinded like crazy. Thanks for the input.

http://catalog.worldpac.com/mercedesshop/sophio/quote.jsp?clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&cookieid=2250XSR3H2250ZYRU0&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&partner=mercedesshop&year=1985&product=N1010-25201&application=000014348

[sedecrem]

I talked to an old time Mercedes parts manager about premium pads. His comments to me were roughly as follows. Mercedes brakes are way overdesigned, and that the regular organic pads are very adequate for safe stoping in a family car. The only time the premium pads(metalic or ceramic) were going to buy you anything is if you were racing and continually braking at high speeds. If you were regularly driving in the mountains and on long steep downgrades with a load of kids that might count too. Under these circumstances the premium pads will take the heat with out fading. Further, as already has been mentioned some of the premium pads screach and are anoying in stop and go traffic, and wear out expensive rotors much faster.

Changing break pads is a relatively simple job, really not too much more difficult than changing oil or fuel filters. I'll bet I could change 5 or 6 sets of pads in the time it would take me to change the rotors. I usually opt for premium parts, but in this case I go for the cheapies.

[dieseldiehard]

Originally Posted by GRIESL

Which one of these is OEM? I am tempted to go with OEM--I was talked into some fancy schmancy pads for the diaper wagon and they squealed and grinded like crazy. Thanks for the input.

http://catalog.worldpac.com/mercedesshop/sophio/quote.jsp?clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&cookieid=2250XSR3H2250ZYRU0&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&partner=mercedesshop&year=1985&product=N1010-25201&application=000014348

Click on the picture of the most expensive, NO NAME pads and you'll find the MBZ logo. Those are OE.
Textars are the same material specifications, soft and reliable but leaves a lot of dust. I like PBR Deluxe pads they are the best compromise between noise, softness and dust.

[toomany MBZ]

[quote=GRIESL;1476176]Just when you get the Benz running right, it's something else--dash light for brake pads is coming on when I depress the brake pedal. Owner's manual says it's time for new pads when that light comes on. True? I believe the light will also come on if you have low brake fluid. Seems the case, per your description. That light flickered on the CD, all the time. This was when I test drove. The PO mentioned new pads, he straightened out prior to purchase, turned out to be loose sensors. Good luck.

[tobybul]

Originally Posted by GRIESL

Which one of these is OEM? I am tempted to go with OEM--I was talked into some fancy schmancy pads for the diaper wagon and they squealed and grinded like crazy. Thanks for the input.

http://catalog.worldpac.com/mercedesshop/sophio/quote.jsp?clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&cookieid=2250XSR3H2250ZYRU0&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&partner=mercedesshop&year=1985&product=N1010-25201&application=000014348

Most pads I've seen on MBs are Textar and ATE. Thats not to say that others are not good. In fact, I plan to try the PBR's next time. There is merit to using softer pads as they will help make the rotors last longer. The trade off is more frequent pad changes. But thats all relative to how you drive also. Pads are easy to change so am not worried about frequency.

Myself, I have been looking for low brake dust pads but I don't think they exist - except maybe if its ceramic like Akebono. But you pay a bit more for them.

For cleaner wheels, Kleen Wheels really work. I have them on my 84D and I never have to scrub the wheels.

[pawoSD]

The kleen wheels do not provide adequate ventilation if you do a lot of heavy braking....we warped a set of front rotors real bad on our '83 as it had them. Took them off, threw them away, put on PBR organic Deluxe pads and a set of Zimmerman Cross Drilled rotors....WOW does that thing have stopping power....when we went out to test them after installing, my dad accidentally left a patch on the road because they grip so much harder.

I have the MB textar pads and ATE Powerdisc rotors on the front of mine, and PBR organic deluxe pads + Balo rotors in back. Same on the back of the '83.

When my rotors are done I am going with OEM pads and Cross drilled rotors. I've had my current brakes on the car for over 35k of heavy braking and there's still about 40% of the pads left! and a small lip on the rotors.

[GRIESL]

[quote=toomany MBZ;1476252]

Originally Posted by GRIESL

Just when you get the Benz running right, it's something else--dash light for brake pads is coming on when I depress the brake pedal. Owner's manual says it's time for new pads when that light comes on. True? I believe the light will also come on if you have low brake fluid. Seems the case, per your description. That light flickered on the CD, all the time. This was when I test drove. The PO mentioned new pads, he straightened out prior to purchase, turned out to be loose sensors. Good luck.

Where are these sensors you speak of? I did top off the fluid--a little low, took maybe a couple of ounces.

[pawoSD]

The light that comes on from low brake fluid is the red "BRAKE" light, which also comes on when using the parking brake. The yellow/orangeish one with a circle with lines on either side of it is the low pads warning light. And yes when it comes on you need to replace the pads within a few thousand miles....

[GRIESL]

Originally Posted by pawoSD

The kleen wheels do not provide adequate ventilation if you do a lot of heavy braking....we warped a set of front rotors real bad on our '83 as it had them. Took them off, threw them away, put on PBR organic Deluxe pads and a set of Zimmerman Cross Drilled rotors....WOW does that thing have stopping power....when we went out to test them after installing, my dad accidentally left a patch on the road because they grip so much harder.

I have the MB textar pads and ATE Powerdisc rotors on the front of mine, and PBR organic deluxe pads + Balo rotors in back. Same on the back of the '83.

When my rotors are done I am going with OEM pads and Cross drilled rotors. I've had my current brakes on the car for over 35k of heavy braking and there's still about 40% of the pads left! and a small lip on the rotors.

So why won't you go with the PBR organic? The crossdrilled rotors sound awesome! How much dough?

[GRIESL]

Originally Posted by sedecrem

...The only time the premium pads(metalic or ceramic) were going to buy you anything is if you were racing and continually braking at high speeds. If you were regularly driving in the mountains and on long steep downgrades with a load of kids that might count too. Under these circumstances the premium pads will take the heat with out fading. Further, as already has been mentioned some of the premium pads screach and are anoying in stop and go traffic, and wear out expensive rotors much faster.

Changing break pads is a relatively simple job, really not too much more difficult than changing oil or fuel filters. I'll bet I could change 5 or 6 sets of pads in the time it would take me to change the rotors. I usually opt for premium parts, but in this case I go for the cheapies.

I live in the mountains, and I've got a bunch of kids (three to be exact). My wife doesn't like riding in the Benz, so we don't have to worry about her. I tend to agree that changing brake pads is easier and less expensive than changing rotors that get worn out by brake pads that last longer. I have noticed that the PO's pads get my front wheels real dusty, like covered after a week or so. So, is that a sign that I should try a pad that dusts less like ceramic, especially given the circumstances of living in the mountains?

[GRIESL]

Originally Posted by pawoSD

The light that comes on from low brake fluid is the red "BRAKE" light, which also comes on when using the parking brake. The yellow/orangeish one with a circle with lines on either side of it is the low pads warning light. And yes when it comes on you need to replace the pads within a few thousand miles....

Do you know where this sensor is that could be sending a false positive to the dash light? I'd like to begin there, I think. The orange light with the circle and lines comes on everytime I hit the brakes. Sometimes flickers, sometimes on solid til I let off the brake. Thanks again, everyone, for all the input.

[t walgamuth]

i used the hawks from tire rack on my 126s. great stopping power and much less dust.

they lacked the holes for the wear sensors though.

tom w