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  #1  
Old 04-19-2007, 05:18 PM
firemediceric's Avatar
1981 300 SD
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Vero Beach, FL
Posts: 351
Where's the torque convertor drain?

I wanted to drain the torque convertor along with the transmission pan. From everything I've read, I should find the allen head drain plug behind the plastic shield on the front of the tranny on my 1981 300 SD .

I removed the plastic cover and after having no success turning the engine with the power steering nut (yes, it's in neutral) I "bumped" the engine trying to find the drain plug. It never did show up. The battery is probably toast from how often I "bumped" the engine.

All I ever saw were some hex head bolts. Out of desperation, I removed them to see if maybe one of them was used to replace the allen head plug. No luck.

So why am I not finding the drain plug?
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1981 300 SD with a Goldenrod water block and Injetor line heaters. EGR is missing

1999 F-350 with HP X-over, Dahl 100 Fuel Filter, Coolant by-pass filter, CCV mod, Tymar intake.

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  #2  
Old 04-19-2007, 05:32 PM
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Look on the outer perimeter of the torque converter. When the drain plug positioned at bottom dead center, the plug should be in a vertical position, with the head facing down.
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  #3  
Old 04-19-2007, 05:33 PM
rrgrassi's Avatar
mmmmmm Diesel...
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Royse City Tx
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Bumping the engine can spin it too far. If you look at the tranny housing where grid plate metal is, there is an opening that lets you get to the TC drain. Have the engine spun by hand until you see the allen head.
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  #4  
Old 04-19-2007, 06:04 PM
toomany MBZ's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrgrassi View Post
Bumping the engine can spin it too far. If you look at the tranny housing where grid plate metal is, there is an opening that lets you get to the TC drain. Have the engine spun by hand until you see the allen head.
There you go. Using a helper is much eaisier.
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  #5  
Old 04-19-2007, 06:13 PM
firemediceric's Avatar
1981 300 SD
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Vero Beach, FL
Posts: 351
Quote:
Originally Posted by toomany MBZ View Post
There you go. Using a helper is much eaisier.

If only the dog had opposable thumbs.

From what I am reading, you guys are saying that rather than removing the plastic plate and looking straight into the bell housing as a post by Samual Ross advises in an old thread, I should be laying on my back and looking straight up at the bottom of the transmission and look for the drain plug through an access hole?

I did see two holes underneath that I though may be access holes. The one to the left of center has a bolt that passes horizontally through the hole. The one to the right of center has an allen head bolt. I put a long 5mm allen wrench into the hole and removed a really LONG bolt. No fluid came out, so I put it back.
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Pictures of the MB: http://s230.photobucket.com/albums/ee41/EricandRobyn/1981%20Mercedes/

1981 300 SD with a Goldenrod water block and Injetor line heaters. EGR is missing

1999 F-350 with HP X-over, Dahl 100 Fuel Filter, Coolant by-pass filter, CCV mod, Tymar intake.

Both on single tank WVO blend
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  #6  
Old 04-19-2007, 07:20 PM
DrewGerhan's Avatar
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Grove City, OH
Posts: 724
I have heard that if the tranny was rebuilt at any time the new torque converter might not have a drain plug. i just used a 1/2" rachet and socket on the crank bolt and turned it little by little untill I found my drain plug.
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  #7  
Old 04-19-2007, 08:17 PM
patbob's Avatar
Its a Whatsit
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 839
It's not behind the little plastic cover.

See picture #3 from this writup I did (http://www.hevanet.com/patbob/MercedesK1SpringKit/SpringKitInstall.html) from when I replaced my K1 spring kit.

I've heard the bump it with the starter advise, but after doing it myself, I don't see how that's likely to work. It only takes being off by about +/-10 degrees to miss the plug so you can't even see it, and a lot less to have it unaligned with the hole so you can't get a wrench up there. My torque converter had scratches on it from the screwdriver someone used to torque it around.. I used a breaker bar and socket on the crankshaft bolt. Had to go around two revs as I missed it by a few degrees and didn't want to turn the engine backwards.

hope that helps.
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  #8  
Old 04-20-2007, 12:21 PM
firemediceric's Avatar
1981 300 SD
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Vero Beach, FL
Posts: 351
Patbob,
That link was great! The tip on getting on socket on the crank shaft bolt was one of the best tips I've gotten. I wish I had that knowledge when I did the valve adjustment.

Getting the right information instead of incorrect direction made all the difference in the world!
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Pictures of the MB: http://s230.photobucket.com/albums/ee41/EricandRobyn/1981%20Mercedes/

1981 300 SD with a Goldenrod water block and Injetor line heaters. EGR is missing

1999 F-350 with HP X-over, Dahl 100 Fuel Filter, Coolant by-pass filter, CCV mod, Tymar intake.

Both on single tank WVO blend
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  #9  
Old 04-20-2007, 05:23 PM
Racerx
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 69
You can also use the power steering pulley to turn the engine, its alot easier to get at. Turn it clockwise.
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