Attaching end view, closest to front of car, showing part on end of turbo charger, believe on the compressor end. The round part, down low, with hose coming out end, hose dissappears behind small filter element. Since this is not the original motor, trying to determine which turbo this is, make and model and whether that is the "bost pressure control valve"?

thanks

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What you see with the tube going to it is the ARV (Air recirculation Valve). Its for emissions controls, it allows more EGR gasses to flow into the intake.

What you have is a KKK K24-2.

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Thanks Lance. What would be best way to remove turbo from car, just take off exhaust manifold with turbo attached and then separate the two? Also, what are the two metal lines? Is heavier one oil supply or return? Is the lighter metal line running to the EGR from the ARV in your photos or is that that shiny metal pod (with accordion connection) the boost pressure control valve? If not, where is the boost pressure control valve and how would I access the waste gate to clean it out?

Is it possible to inspect compressor blade end with turbo still in car?

Reason I’m asking is my 87 300 SDL is dead, maybe 3lbs of boost when I tramp on it with gauge hooked in, by passing switch over valve on fender well.


Bill

Before you presume the turbo is bad, check the shaft for play, it should have very little or side to side and little or no end to end movement.
If that's ok then its possible that the wastegate flapper is stick open, due to coking around it and then boost is bypassed and you get just a little pressure at the intake manifold, this is fairly common on hi mileage 603's. The best way to clean it is removing the turbo and scraping the stuff out. Also be sure your Trap (if present) or CAT isn't getting plugged up, this is a item that can be very elusive and result in extremely sluggish or in some cases a completely dead engine. Turbo diesels have to breath in and out with little restriction or they just won't perform. If it has to come off then removing the whole enchilada and replacing the exhaust gasket is the way I would do it.

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Referring to two photos Lance sent in post #2, what are the two metal lines? Is heavier one oil supply or return? Is the lighter metal line running to the EGR from the ARV or is that shiny metal pod (with accordion connection) the boost pressure control valve? If not, where is the boost pressure control valve and how would I access the waste gate to clean it out?

Also, is it possible with the ARV (air recirculation valve) on the compressor end to inspect the compressor blades while it’s in the car or would I have to remove turbo from car and then remove ARV to inspect? Would it make any sense at all to try and do away with the AVR?

I would be surprised if the turbo is dead. They usualy die by blowing the oil seals and leaking like crazy. As said above check it before you go yanking it. Your waste gate is probably stuck open.

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The big metal line is the turbo's oil supply and the smaller one is the wastegate line. The device with the fins is the wastegate, the fins are to dissipate heat and keep the diaphragm from melting. The wastegate is held on by 3 bolts. You can remove it, clean it's seat, check it's operation, etc.

You can take off the large plastic tube going to the turbo. that will allow you access to the compressor shaft. It helps if you have a small mirror so you can look inside and see the blades.

You can disable the ARV the same way as the EGR, put a BB in the vacuum line going to it.

Turbos rarely die. I suspect you have an airline to the injection pump blocked, linkage misadjusted, or bad TrapOx (if you still have it).

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Lance, you say: “The wastegate is held on by 3 bolts. You can remove it, clean it's seat, check it's operation, etc.” Assume I need to remove complete turbo from car in order to remove wastegate? What’s best way to check it’s operation? Do I need to get a gasket when I put wastegate back on?

You also say: “You can take off the large plastic tube going to the turbo. that will allow you access to the compressor shaft.“ Are you talking about the large plastic tube that comes from the air intake, off of the air filter housing, or some other tube?

You also say: “Turbos rarely die. I suspect you have an airline to the injection pump blocked, linkage misadjusted, or bad TrapOx (if you still have it).” Can you please elaborate on what I need to check re a possible blocked airline? Linkage seems to move free enough and far enough (my guess) when I do it manually under the hood but just no power. The TrapOx evidentially was replaced with the newer version.

Did notice shortly before I lost power, after taking a 3hr trip, that I seemed to go through excessive amount of oil but I couldn’t see that it was leaking anywhere. Added some for return trip and didn’t seem to use much (hardly any) on way back. Wasn’t pushing it quite as hard on return trip. Then used around town for about 10 days, then started to notice loss of power.

Appreciate your help.
Bill

Do a search for switchover valve, a common problem with these engines, gets clogged and doesn't allow fuel enrichment so your boost creates no additional power.

Both of my '87 603s had this problem, shooting WD-40 into the bottom connection until it clears out worked.

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- Jeff

Jeff, have already by passed switchover valve and didn’t help. Might need to remove Alda and try it. Otherwise need to look at Waste gate sticking open, thus my questions quoted below. Will appreciate someone trying to answer those questions.
thanks


[quote=wjob;1493219]Lance, you say: “The wastegate is held on by 3 bolts. You can remove it, clean it's seat, check it's operation, etc.” Assume I need to remove complete turbo from car in order to remove wastegate? What’s best way to check it’s operation? Do I need to get a gasket when I put wastegate back on?

You also say: “You can take off the large plastic tube going to the turbo. that will allow you access to the compressor shaft.“ Are you talking about the large plastic tube that comes from the air intake, off of the air filter housing, or some other tube?

You also say: “Turbos rarely die. I suspect you have an airline to the injection pump blocked, linkage misadjusted, or bad TrapOx (if you still have it).” Can you please elaborate on what I need to check re a possible blocked airline? Linkage seems to move free enough and far enough (my guess) when I do it manually under the hood but just no power. The TrapOx evidentially was replaced with the newer version.

Did notice shortly before I lost power, after taking a 3hr trip, that I seemed to go through excessive amount of oil but I couldn’t see that it was leaking anywhere. Added some for return trip and didn’t seem to use much (hardly any) on way back. Wasn’t pushing it quite as hard on return trip. Then used around town for about 10 days, then started to notice loss of power."

Replies please.