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#1
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Window switch
My rear driver side window doesn't operate. When the interior lights are on, that switch in the center is the only one not lit up. Also, the rear switch doesn't operate it either. Fuses appear fine. All other windows are functional. Ideas?
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-Mike 1987 300D (white/blue) 199k+ miles, July 2007 OM603 with #14 head Powered by BioWillie's B99.9 Biodiesel @ Pearson Fuels |
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#2
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You might try contact cleaner on the switches, that worked in my 124, worked on seat switches too. You can get it at radio shack for about $8
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Muleears '07 E320 Bluetec 133K my DD '04 Jaguar XJ8 VDP, 34K '10 Hyundai Accent 60K Grocery Getter '02 VW Golf soon to be on the road again '97 E300 Diesel Son's DD '61 VERY tolerant wife Hampton Roads, VA USA Gone but not forgotten: '67 250S 95K '86 300SDL '87 300D Turbo, 364K! R.I.P. '98 E300 Turbodiesel, 213K '02 S420, 164K '01 Prius 138K |
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#3
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Quote:
I do agree with muleears regarding cleaning the contacts. The Germans think you should not be eating and drinking while driving so they put the window switches where they are easily fried by just about any beverage. As a sidebar, I am jealous of your two W124 OM603's muleears. I bought one with a cracked head last summer and have saved up the money to fix it. I will be ordering the head in the next few weeks. Can't wait to have it on the road. Then it is time to look for one for the wife. I decided she can't have this one because I want the fairly rare leather interior that this one has.
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Doug 1987 300TD x 3 2005 E320CDI |
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#4
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I recently replaced two working window switches that didn't light up, it might not be related.
Once you lift the center console wood panel, it is a simple matter to move switches around, see if another switch will operate the window.
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Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
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#5
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My experience with W123 and W126 window switches is that the contacts soot up due to the design. The switches are not self-cleaning as with sliding contact designs so when they make contact and arc, soot is produced and eventually the soot insulates the contact and the window does not work. You can take the switches apart (be careful not to loose the springs and balls inside) clean the contacts with a pencil eraser and apply dielectric grease to keep it cleaner longer. Eventually you will have to do it again but the process I described will extend the cleaning intervals.
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#6
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clean them. usually works for mine. most electrical problems I've had ended up being a bad connection or wire or contact.
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1987 300TDT 1981 VW MKI Caddy 1.6 diesel, waiting on engine swap 1983 D-50 Power Ram 4x4 "Mitsubishi" 2.3 turbo diesel assorted gas powered crap and motorcycles RIP: 1984 300TDT, 1982 300TDT, 1984 190D 2.2, 1992 300D 2.5, 1987 300TDT, 1982 Maxima LD28, 1983 Maxima LD28, Isuzu C223 P'ups X3, 1983 Holiday Rambler 6.2 Banks turbo diesel, 1984 Winnebago LeSharo 2.1 TD, 1985 Allegro 6.5 |
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#7
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The center console switch is fine. I swapped them around to check.
The rear door window switch should be fine. I also have a 2nd working switch. Still doesn't work. Whipped out the voltimeter. Voltages are fine in the center console. But at the rear switch, that's where a problem is. I can't get 12 volts unless I squeeze and/or wiggle that rubber boot between the car and the door. Also looks like voltage is leaking to the other teminals. I tried holding the switch down and manipulating the rubber boot while the switch was plugged in, but still nothing. Center switch for the window still doesn't light up. BTW, ended up breaking the tabs and 1 hook on the door handle trying to take off that door panel. It was too late by the time I got to the DIY. Sigh. I'm pretty frustrated at this point and don't know what to do next. Thanks for letting me vent!
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-Mike 1987 300D (white/blue) 199k+ miles, July 2007 OM603 with #14 head Powered by BioWillie's B99.9 Biodiesel @ Pearson Fuels |
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#8
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It sounds like you found the problem, a broken wire where it enters the door,
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