Hey,
I'll be stunned if this is original to me, but I didnt see it in my search.

Ok, broke my "L" bolt off trying to tighten the alt belts. Wasnt in the mood to spend $40 on a new one. So, I went to the hardware store, picked up a threaded eye bolt, put the alt bolt through the eye, threads through the bracket, used a coupling-nut as the tensioner, and viola, a new alt adjuster for $1.25. Much heftier than the original, too.
Enjoy,
Paul

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Paul
2004 E500 4matic; 72,000mi

Bravo!!

I'll keep that one in mind!!

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-Matt

EPA Section 609 Certified MVAC Technician
-----------------
Oil Burner Kartel Member #10

Ahh the smell of Diesel Fuel, it's like coffee in the morning!

My Car:

1982 300SD Turbo Diesel (231,500 miles!) RIP

1984 300SD Turbo Diesel Custom (235,500 mi on driveline.) - On Road!!

www.icsrepair.com

Can you post a pic?

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Pictures of the MB: http://s230.photobucket.com/albums/ee41/EricandRobyn/1981%20Mercedes/

1981 300 SD with a Goldenrod water block and Injetor line heaters. EGR is missing

1999 F-350 with HP X-over, Dahl 100 Fuel Filter, Coolant by-pass filter, CCV mod, Tymar intake.

Both on single tank WVO blend

I'll keep that in mind when I put my alternator back in, and-hopefully-don't -break-it-but-just-in-case, soon

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Pics would really help us out on this one. Sounds like a good fix, but I have to see things to "get it".....

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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

Ok.
1. The "L" adjusting bolt broke. The adjusting rod itself snapped off the main bolt. The portion that passes through and holds the alternator was still usable.

2. In the first picture is a sample of what I mean by "eye bolt". This is not the one I used; just one laying around.

3. The next shot shows the alt bolt passed through the eye portion, and into the alternator housing. I left the large washer between the eye and the bolt head to ensure a good squeeze. The shiny part is the eye bolt; it's threads are going to the left, into the adjustment bracket.

4. pic 3 is the threaded end sticking through the bracket. You can see the small nut that came with the eyebolt. behind that is the "coupling nut", about 1" long. Some washers make sure the bolts dont slip through the bracket hole. The little nut I use to lock the coupler in place.

Clear enough?

Attached Thumbnails

     

__________________
Paul
2004 E500 4matic; 72,000mi

some labels might help

Attached Thumbnails

 

__________________
Paul
2004 E500 4matic; 72,000mi

Now I get it. Thanks for the pictures.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

I am so glad there are people out there smarter than me and willing to post fixes like this one. I broke the exact same part and was ready to go out and buy one for $40 when I came across this fix. Simple, cheap and smart. Thanks so much.

That is certainly a clever improvisation. I broke one of those adjusters myself a while back.

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Palangi

2004 C240 Wagon 203.261 Baby Benz
2008 ML320 CDI Highway Cruiser
2006 Toyota Prius, Saving the Planet @ 48 mpg
2000 F-150, Destroying the Planet @ 20 mpg



TRUMP .......... WHITEHOUSE
HILLARY .........JAILHOUSE
BERNIE .......... NUTHOUSE
0BAMA .......... OUTHOUSE

Loving this thread, but could use a bit more advice. How long is the eye bolt you (plural) used?

sorry Psyclist. I sold the car a few months back, so I cant go measure it. I suspect it was 3" +/-. This is from years ago, so I hardly remember. You should be able to figure it out, though. Just needs to be long enough for the threads to reach. Enjoy!

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Paul
2004 E500 4matic; 72,000mi