Oil cooler hose leak repair - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

funola · #1 05-24-2007, 07:31 PM

Of of the oil cooler hose is seeping engine oil at the rubber to metal line crimp. It's the crimp that's right next to the A/C compressor. I woulda just replaced the line but it looks like a not very pleasant job so I am trying an easy way out. I sprayed it with brake clean, blew it out with compressed air, repeat a few times, then dribbled some crazy glue in there, let it set a while then applied RTV. I am letting it cure overnight and see if it works or not. Will report back.

Gurkha · #2 05-24-2007, 08:56 PM

If the hose is old, I would consider replacing it, my lower one broke early after 6 years of ownership of my vehicle, it was not the hose's fault, it was rubbing against the chassis and that finally took its toll on the hose, had mine made specially with industrial grade stuff, also wrapped up some extra rubber in the place where it rubs against the chassis. Its more for piece of mind, a broken hose can leave you stranded in the most unlikely of places.

kip Foss · #3 05-24-2007, 09:16 PM

I replaced both of mine on my 115 300d for $20 and it was not a big job. It wasn't clean or fun but it didn't take long and now I don't have to worry about them blowing out of some lonely stretch of S. Texas road a 3 in the am. The question is, what am I doing on a lonely stretch of S. Texas road at 3 in the am?

Take the hoses off. Be careful with the nuts to the radiator connection. The radiator is aluminum and is the nuts are stuck you can twist off the male end at the radiator.

Remember in which direction the fittings are mounted on the hoses. If they are wrong by more than a few degrees it will be difficult to remount them.

Grind off the metal band that crimps the hoses to the fitting. Be careful not to grind into the fitting.

Take your fittings and hoses to a parts shop or hydraulic shop where they make hoses and have new ones made up. Remember about getting the fittings in the same position as the originals. The new hoses will have one layer of steel braiding and they are very difficult to twist.

charmalu · #4 05-25-2007, 01:06 AM

If you have a leaky oil cooler hose, don`t procrastinate thinking "I`ll do
it later". my lower hose at the oil cooler had been wet for a long time
but not dripping, so thought no big deal. took a trip rom CA to Dallas, Tx.
I was in Kingman, Az and it was getting real wet. well we made it home but it was starting to spray and make a mess. I replaced both hoses and
was surprised how soft the rubber on the new hoses is. the old ones were
hard as a rock, and had a date stamped 1984. really cooked.
the fitting on the oil cooler does not turn, but use a 7/8 open end to hold
it. and use a 1 1/6 for the oil cooler hose end. I made a flair nut wrench
out of a box wrench. and you will have to grind down the side of it to fit
next to the IP.

#5 05-25-2007, 01:12 AM

If it leaks, replace it asap.

Breaking an oil cooler line is one of the few ways to easily kill an OM617.

Giesel · #6 05-25-2007, 06:21 AM

Replace any leaking oil cooler hoses, they will not get any better.

vstech · #7 05-25-2007, 09:14 AM

if the hose is rubbing against something, your motor is sitting wrong. perhaps you have bad motor mounts?
John

Kuhlrover · #8 05-25-2007, 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

I sprayed it with brake clean, blew it out with compressed air, repeat a few times, then dribbled some crazy glue in there, let it set a while then applied RTV. I am letting it cure overnight and see if it works or not. Will report back.

You did what? You used crazy glue and RTV on pressurized oil line and an oil line that is old, cracked and soaked with oil? Good God man, what were you thinking?

Please take head from the other reponses post here. Your engine is living on borrowed time. Replace your lines with new ones ASAP!

TimK

Hatterasguy · #9 05-25-2007, 11:47 AM

Yeah thats not going to do anything. If you plan on keeping the car remove them and have new hoses crimped on. If you don't just use some fuel line and hose clamps to replace it.

When I first got my car the oil cooler was doing the same thing, the crimp was rusted and looked pretty bad. My dad decided to clean the rust with a wire brush, and it started to leak like crazy right after that.

Thanks dad, 603 oil cooler lines are expensive. One set of new lines, and a new cooler everything was good.

Phil hooked me up, sent them out in only a couple of days.

funola · #10 05-25-2007, 12:16 PM

It was a temporary fix to slow the leak till I do a permanent fix. It did slow the leak a bit but still seeping at around a drop every 5 second.

Do I need to pull the oil filter housing to remove both oil cooler lines? Is there a procedure written up somewhere?
.

vstech · #11 05-25-2007, 12:20 PM

here is some experiance for you, my current parts car 85 300D I paid 400 for, in immaculate shape, except for the spun bearing... and the motor oil all over everything under the hood. and the piece of pipe splicing the oil cooler line. the car starts instantly no glow. smooth idle except for that banging bearing... motor shot. a really good motor judging from it's starting and idling charactristics. it would have gone another 300K if the oil cooler line was replaced instead of jerry rigged... ahh well, I would not have gotten the car if that was the case either. so se la vie
John

Old300D · #12 05-25-2007, 12:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

It was a temporary fix to slow the leak till I do a permanent fix. It did slow the leak a bit but still seeping at around a drop every 5 second.

Do I need to pull the oil filter housing to remove both oil cooler lines? Is there a procedure written up somewhere?
.

I repaired my oil cooler lines without removing the hard lines to the filter. I could not get to the nuts. I cut off the crimps, the fittings are barbed, and cut new pieces of line (5/8" ID hydraulic, rated to 2500psi). I just used hose clamps to secure the lines, but don't go cheap on these -- I used constant tension clamps, $4.50 each from mcmaster. As soon as I get the pics off my wife's camera, I can post them. Total cost $20.

funola · #13 05-25-2007, 01:43 PM

That's exactly what I was thinking of doing! Looks like there is enough room to split the crimps at the metal lines by leaving it in place using a Dremel+cut off wheel. Is that what you used or is there a better way? If the connections at the cooler come off easily I am golden as they can be split on the bench. Can you give me the p/n of the constant tension clamps you used? I was gonna just use 2 regular hose clamps per connection but the constant tension spring clamps sounds better. Thanks for the hose i.d. size. That will allow me to get all the parts I need without running around. There's a good hydraulic shop near me that will have the high pressure/ temp hydraulic hoses. I hope they will have the clamps too.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Old300D

I repaired my oil cooler lines without removing the hard lines to the filter. I could not get to the nuts. I cut off the crimps, the fittings are barbed, and cut new pieces of line (5/8" ID hydraulic, rated to 2500psi). I just used hose clamps to secure the lines, but don't go cheap on these -- I used constant tension clamps, $4.50 each from mcmaster. As soon as I get the pics off my wife's camera, I can post them. Total cost $20.

winmutt · #14 05-25-2007, 01:53 PM

GL. When you spew oil all over the interior and spend the extras $25 for a new one, the easiest way to get them in and out is to unbolt the drivers side eng mount and shock and jack up the engine a few inches.

Old300D · #15 05-25-2007, 03:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

That's exactly what I was thinking of doing! Looks like there is enough room to split the crimps at the metal lines by leaving it in place using a Dremel+cut off wheel. Is that what you used or is there a better way? If the connections at the cooler come off easily I am golden as they can be split on the bench. Can you give me the p/n of the constant tension clamps you used? I was gonna just use 2 regular hose clamps per connection but the constant tension spring clamps sounds better. Thanks for the hose i.d. size. That will allow me to get all the parts I need without running around. There's a good hydraulic shop near me that will have the high pressure/ temp hydraulic hoses. I hope they will have the clamps too.

Yes, I used a dremel with a cutting wheel to remove the crimps. You can't link items directly, but go to www.mcmaster.com and go to catalog page 241. The clamp part number is 54205K11; it has a clamping range from 9/16" to 1-1/16", and it is 9/16" wide. It looks like this and it is the top item on the page.

The hose I used was on page 228, part number 54605K28. It's 30R7 hydraulic hose, 9/16" ID. I used 2 feet, but had to buy 5 @ $0.79.