Got a tranny fluid/filter change coming up and I think I can tackle it myself. Might do it tomorrow, pending my ability to find/buy the appropriate tools (my wrench collection is a hodge-podge at best). I've done my homework here and in the E-Class Bible, but still need someone to hold my hand. Just a couple questions in case I go for it tomorrow:
-I'm using ramps. When is it appropriate to back the car off the ramps after the fluid has been refilled? I.e., should I start it and run it at each gear when it's still on the ramps, or put it in N and roll it off before doing any of that? Obviously I want the car on level ground when I go to check/add final fluid, but between which steps should I do that?
-I've heard varying measurements for exactly how much fluid goes in initially. I will drain the pan and TC. I know the car's capacities, but I also know a lot of it doesn't drain out, and I am paranoid about overfilling. Exactly how much goes in after I have drained both parts?
-I have heard that it's not good to leave the TC drained for very long. But I want to let the pan drip for a while so I don't make a huge mess. The Owners Bible says to drain the TC first, but would it be OK to drain the pan, leave it for a while and THEN drain the TC and quickyly refill the whole shebang?
-Is it necessary to clean the pan before replacing it? DieselGiant does that on his pictorial but I wasn't sure if it's a must or just something extra one can do. No mention of cleaning in the Owners Bible. Can I just pop on the gasket and bolt away?
-Do you guys torque to spec on the bolts, or just to feel? Wondering if a torque wrench is something I need to add to my shopping list.

Thanks. After all this it'll probably rain tomorrow ...

__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

Only partial answers here -

1) I've had no problem pouring in 4 quarts, starting the engine while still on ramps then filling in small increments until R engages so I can drive off the ramps. With the car level, I fill to about an inch BELOW the min mark then top off after a 10 mile run. The rule of thumb I read a while ago is that ATF is at operating temperature when the wet tip of the dipstick is too hot to pinch with your fingers. Each car/tranny has a different spec for how far below the min mark to fill before getting the ATF to operating temp. It pretty much varies around an inch so that should be a safe bet unless you find the actual spec.

2) I clean the pan as thoroughly as I can with brake parts cleaner and lint free rags.

3) I tighten by feel. I tighten every third bolt in quarter turns until I've gone around the pan a dozen times. You can probably loosen bolts tightened to spec with a screwdriver so the bolts aren't on very tight.

Sixto
93 300SD 3.0

I wouldn't worry about leaving the TC empty for the length of time you are going to be under there. I used a (clean) topsider to remove most of the oil from the dipstick tube before opening the pan or TC. They both can get a little messy, esp. if you are on ramps or jack stands rather than a lift. The topsider got maybe 80% of the oil out and I am guessing quicker than draining it.

Take care with the tranny pan bolts. The torque spec on them is something like 8lbs, which isn't much. I managed to overtighten one and bend the lip of my pan. Fortunately it is holding pretty well. However, easy does it.

It takes a while for the oil to drain once you have dropped the pan. I took that time to clean the pan as well as I could. The pan lip can get pretty crudded up.

Getting the TC rotated around to the right location is a bit of a pain, especially w/o a helper. I managed to rotate it w/ a large flat head screwdriver, but my glowplugs were out so there wasn't much resistance. If you are going to rotate via the crank shaft you will probably want a helper (unless you already have everything marked.)

I used Mobil 1 fluid and it has been working great. I did the 4 quarts to start but after I dropped the car off the ramps. I also ended up overfilling a bit, but the topsider made short work of that.

Good luck.

__________________
=-=-=-=-=
1987 300TD 231,000
#22, afterglow, plastic fan, euro lights, alternator upgrade, cluster housing update

What's the risk of leaving the TC empty? AFAIK they're sold empty.

Sixto
93 300SD 3.0

OK, I had the most unproductive day ever and didn't get what I need to get the job done ... Pep Boys = no metric allen wrenches and no 27mm socket. I only have 5 quarts of the MB-approved ATF ... I thought that would be enough but I'm thinking now that I'll need more (or at least would be a good idea to HAVE it before I do the job). And Pep Boys didn't have that either. And now everything's closed for two days because of the holiday. OK, I'm done whining.

One more question. I bought brake parts cleaner, but I'm a little worried about the whole "lint free" deal ... are "lint free paper towels" a special products or are paper towels inherently lint free? Where can I buy lint free paper towels?

sixto ... someone else could probably answer better than me, but from what I assertain in searching other posts, a couple people seemed concerned about the TC being run while dry in the split seconds before the fluid is distributed. If it hasn't completely drained there's some residual fluid to lube it in that short interim. I'm not sure if it's a "risk" or just a general prevention of wear and tear kind fo thing.

__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

It's dry under the car......

Autozone seems to have a decent array of tools. They seem to be of acceptable quality and the prices are OK. I don't know if they are in your area, but if so I can't imagine them being closed for the whole weekend.

BTW, get those camera batteries charged up. Pics = good

__________________
Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

Don't overthink the link free thing. Just make sure that the pan doesn't have lint on it before you put it back on. Use a can of compressed air or similar. The pan is pretty simple and there isn't a bunch of places for lint to get stuck. The mobil 1 ATF works well for your power steering as well so get more than you think you need.

__________________
=-=-=-=-=
1987 300TD 231,000
#22, afterglow, plastic fan, euro lights, alternator upgrade, cluster housing update

An 87 300D uses Dexron III/Mercon, the most commonly available ATF. I find Mobil 1 ATF makes cold shifts smoother.

Do you have new crush washers for the TC and pan drain plugs?

If you have a helper, have him/her flick the key until you see the TC drain. You can do it by yourself but it takes longer.

Sixto
93 300SD 3.0

Start a separate thread asking if there's anyone near your location who will lend you tools.

Old cotton t-shirts and diapers are pretty lint free. I would think paper in general leaves behind fibers.

I forget now - do MBs have a pan magnet? I know Mopars do.

Sixto
93 300SD 3.0

At the car section at Target (and also at AUtozone) here, they sell microfiber rags that are supposed to be totally lint free. I got myself a bunch because I am doing the 1993 2.5 soon (tranny).
BTW, it's totally unclear to me how you move the TC to get it in the right position for draining. When you said the glowplugs are out, what do the glow plugs have to do with that? And where did you put the large flathead screw driver?

__________________
1974 240D, 125K mi, B100 now, SOLD
1980 300TD, 115K mi, 4-speed stick, roll-up windows, greasecar with two tank conversion (daily driver)
1985 300D, 220K miles, greasecar with two tank conversion, SOLD
1993 300D 2.5turbo, 158K miles, green/tan, B20-B50

Glow plugs out prevents cylinder compression so it's easier to turn the engine.

The TC is bolted to the flex plate (flywheel) which holds the starter ring gear. Pry the ring gear cogs with a screwdriver against the ribs of the grating at the bottom of the bell housing to turn the TC. I've never turned the TC this way. Flicking the key seems less risky.

Sixto
93 300SD 3.0

I just went slowly and the TC moved easily by prying against the ribs. I had all 6 plugs out though.

__________________
=-=-=-=-=
1987 300TD 231,000
#22, afterglow, plastic fan, euro lights, alternator upgrade, cluster housing update

Well, bought the 27mm socket at Sears last night, so hopefully I can turn the engine with that. And my dad said I can raid his allen set, so I think I'm set for tools. I'm going to try Walmart this evening for the remaining fluid ... sometimes they have a good supply of that sort of thing, other times, it's a total strike out. Both the Pep Boys and Autozone in my area are pretty lousy ... they don't have products in stock and it's almost impossible to get simple help in there. But I got the filter, gasket and crush washers, so things are sort of falling into place.

On the bright side, while I had the car up on ramps I did check the flex discs, and they both looked good ... so at least I did SOMETHING.

__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

Lint free is good, paper towels are bad. Paper towels are made by lots of crushing, mixing, and shredding, and commonly contain tiny metal pieces. No quality transmission shop will ever touch the insides of a transmission with a paper towel.

A dry-start on the torque converter is not IMO a risk for changing fluids, although if you were to leave it overnight to drain, possibly a risk. New converters are empty, but have an assembly grease on all seals.

The whole transmission fluid/filter change thing is pretty simple and straightforward. Big thing is cleanliness, everything else is pretty simple. If you want it off of the ramps to fill, push it down the ramps, that's what I do, with a helper ready on the brakes.

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

The beam type (needle indicator) is reputed to be more reliable than the clicker type, tho sometimes it's difficult to arrange things so you can see the indicator -- and they're pretty inexpensive, even from Craftsman.

Sometimes it's hard to "feel" a setting --- most of us are more comfortable with fasteners too tight.

It's handy to have a foot/lb for the bigger stuff and an inch/lb for the smaller things. Mine is old, so it only is marked in ft/lb, but I assume the modern ones are also marked with metric equivalents. I just compute those for each job before I tighten ....