If u are talking about putting it in the stock air can, u wont gain anything, just use the oem paper filters, they provide suffficient airflow.

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82' 300SD

No gain whatsoever. Maybe 0.0001 seconds faster 0-60 from your lighter wallet.

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-justin

1987 300TD, 1987 300TD
2008 R32, 2000 Passat Wagon

I have a new in box one, if interested.

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83 SD

84 CD

For what year and model? And how much?

That's a good place for it.........leave it there........

If you have an American car like a Mustang or something and want to get more power a cold air kit with a K&N is not a bad idea.


But these are not Fords, or Chevy's, or have anything in commen with the two. In regards to high end European cars K&N filters a totaly pointless and worthless.

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2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Thanks---I think.

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xafman
1984 300TD 182,000 mi FOR SALE
1972 Chev Longhorn PU--restored
1994 Buick Roadmaster 7200 mi (actual)

Untrue. If I was going to keep my 95 for a long time, why wouldn't I buy ONE air filter for it???


Or I can buy 10 paper ones? And throw them away when done.


K&N makes sense for a car you'll keep for a while. For the economy of it, not for the performance. My CHevelle is faster with an AC filter by a tenth. Clean paper flows best.,

Everyone already knows that.

I like the K&N provided it is used appropriately. I have one on the MB and one on the work truck. Oil analysis, three tests to baseline each before the K&N's were installed and three afterwards were performed. There was NO increase in silica, wear metals, etc. in any of the post tests nor have there been since. If crap is getting past the K&N's the analysis would show it. In my applications, low dust, on road in a fairly wet climate, they seem to work okay. I doubt they work well in dry, dusty environments like the Southwest. I also oil the bejeezus out of the filters.

IMHO, the K&N does have a great application on MB's. Replace that Rube Goldberg affair of a filter on the 617. RT

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When all else fails, vote from the rooftops!
84' Mercedes Benz 300D Anthracite/black, 171K
03' Volkswagen Jetta TDI blue/black, 93K
93' Chevrolet C2500HD ExCab 6.5TD, Two-tone blue, 252K

They do not work well in a dry desert with heavy dust just dropped into the filter housing and forget it! But I was literally changing paper filters after every dust storm because they would get clogged in one 100 mile trip. It's worth the effort to make an oil bath for this filter as I'm no longer changing them as often. A rivet gun or welder to put up the divider to form a sump for about 1/2 to 1 inch of oil to saturate the K&N and it works ideally here. K&N being an oil base filtering system is the only one durable enough to take a oil bath and last, but I can feel no difference at the throttle. But I'm glad you mentioned oil analysis because several years of engineering taught me that this is what you base your schedule for oil changes and service intervals and I would recommend everyone do an analysis at least once per year although twice would be better! I change my oil every 5000 miles and clean my oil bath K&N as often as once every 3 months showing how important it is to know the facts about what is going on under your hood. Most of you do not live in a climate where blowing dust can cut your visibility down to 15 to 25 feet and desert dust can turn into an industrial grade diamond in the combustion chamber of a diesel engine! Try a real test. Take a piece of foam rubber and bath it in Marvel Mystery Oil and place it inside of your stock filter assembly and look at it after 3 months of driving and post back what you see in real life conditions. Make sure you use Marvel Mystery oil as it will not break down foam rubber. Cut a piece of wire screen and place it in the inside of the foam rubber to keep it from coming loose. No need to drench it, just make sure it is fully penetrated. This will be a real indicator of how good your filter is. This will be well worth the effort.