After putting everything back together from my recent compression test (with disappointing results: 180, 300, 240, 330, 260) it's running again. IP start of delivery adjustment, soaking the injectors in MMO for a week and filling the cylinders with MMO didn't have any effect whatsoever. It's still hard to start and it dies if you let go of the pedal. Once the engine is hot, it runs at 800 to 900 rpm but misses every now and then, it smokes moderately and additionally, now it dies immediately when you put it in gear unless you play with the pedal. Is there an adjustment for that?

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'99 S420, 155k
'91 VW Vanagon GL, 150k
'85 VW Vanagon GL, 120k
'82 VW Westy, aircooled, 165k

I assume there was another post on this? You have checked your valve clearances? Strange the engine should drop back from 8-900 rpms idle to a stall when engaging the transmission. Is the 8-900 rpm idle being used to cover up a cylinder not on line?
Loosen one injector line nut at a time and listen. Or get your idle back down to normal speed and listen plus test the engine as well at idle. You may be short a cylinder.
I would think the lower compression would hurt the starting ability of the engine a little more so than the running. A lot of engines out there do not have great compression overall but once running do okay.
If by any chance you have not adjusted your valve clearances or at least verified you have some clearance. When in there have a good look at the camshaft as well.
You also helped prove on normal diesel fuel any carbon buildup if any in the ring grooves is not a common factor usually. Unless the basis of your individual compression problem is poor sealing valves and your rings are in pretty good shape. More than normal blowby? Air filter saturated? Oil consumption high?

It even dies when the AC compresser goes on. ...and when I move the steering wheel it dies, too... I didn't try the radio yet.

And no, I didn't check the valves because compression on 1-4 went way up with some oil in the cylinders, 5 didn't change, though.

Lots of blowby, airfilter soaked, oil consumption is high but not excessive (less than 1 quart per 1000miles), considering that it's slightly leaking as well.

To be honest, I'm tired of working on this car. Ever since we had it, it was a waste of time and money. Now besides the engine not running right (it never did, not even after the valve adjustment 10k miles ago), it now has a cracked windshield, the power steering gear box started leaking (badly!), the starter works only sometimes, cruise control never worked, and although I spent $1500 on a welding job, the body doesn't look that great either. I think I'll just give it up and part it out.

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'99 S420, 155k
'91 VW Vanagon GL, 150k
'85 VW Vanagon GL, 120k
'82 VW Westy, aircooled, 165k

woah! before you condem it, pop off the linkage, pull the 4 nuts holding the valve cover on, and get in there and check the valves clearance on the low compression pot. I bet you find tight valves, and get the car running great in less than 2 hours.

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Oh well, I'll give it a try some day next week...

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'99 S420, 155k
'91 VW Vanagon GL, 150k
'85 VW Vanagon GL, 120k
'82 VW Westy, aircooled, 165k

OK, done. All valves were tight except intake valves #1, #3, and #5 (this is the low comp. pot), they were actually perfect. I adjusted everything to specs but no change. What's next?

Right now it runs smooth and quiet (still misses sometimes), but it needs 1000rpm to stay running once put in "D" or "R" and/or with A/C. Additionally I noticed some blue smoke while decelerating; however, we don't have hills here so I can't do the "downhill-test".

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'99 S420, 155k
'91 VW Vanagon GL, 150k
'85 VW Vanagon GL, 120k
'82 VW Westy, aircooled, 165k

Andy, I think you might be chasing a lost cause.

With 180 compression in one cylinder, it's not making any power and probably barely lighting the fuel. You've probably got some white smoke with it.

The cylinder at 240 is also not pulling it's weight as compared to the remaining three.

So, the engine has insufficient torque at 700 rpm to handle the load from the torque converter.

I presume the situation is better after it warms up thoroughly and the compression comes up a bit.

But, providing the cam timing and IP timing are reasonably close to specs, I don't think you'll find a magical solution for it.

I presume your talking about the 84 300dt? If you part it out I might be interested in some parts. What color is the interior? Blue leather I hope.

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'83 240D 264k on 100% biodiesel/ 31mpg
83 300D 217K the $800 gem
'82 300D 267K the new WVO project car finished and driving for free
International tractor B275 on B100
Ford 555 backhoe on B100
Sargent 25 ton Rough Terrain crane on B50

I might... I'm not sure yet, maybe I donate it and take the tax write off. And yes, it's blue, but certainly not in showroom condition... What do you need? PM me.

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'99 S420, 155k
'91 VW Vanagon GL, 150k
'85 VW Vanagon GL, 120k
'82 VW Westy, aircooled, 165k

Good idea-unless you want to sink thousands more into it.
If you're patient you can find a great deal on these Benzs. Most were purchased by 'elderly' folks...who saw the inherent wisdom of diesel...and didn't care that they couldn't hit 60 in 2 seconds.

Bide your time.
But do NOT give up!

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'81 SILVER BLUE 300SD
204,xxx


GEORGE WASHINGTON